F&R Camber adjustments/parts Q
#1
F&R Camber adjustments/parts Q
So... I'm fairly lowered (BC Racing BR Type + short springs) and my SPC rear camber arms are maxed out on adjustability. Alignment shop could only get them to -3 in the rear (side question - is my alignment shop smoking crack? SPC advertises +/- 4 degrees on their rear camber arms). With factory A-arms I'm at about -1.8 camber in the front. I'm working to set up my suspension for a more drift-oriented setup and have been leaning towards SPL parts, but I'd like to hear what parts people here are using and what #'s they're able to acheive.
My goals are:
-3 to -4 degrees camber in the front
0 to -.5 camber in the rear
maintain factory spec on toe/caster F&R (for now)
what A-arms and rear camber arms have the adjustability to reach these numbers on a lowered car? I've noticed most aftermarket A-arms have advertised adjustability of only +/- 2.5 and most camber arms +/-1.5.
I live about a half hour from SPC's headquarters so I may just give them a call and see if they did any one-off parts for Tanner's car that have more adjustability than the parts they sell to the general public. If so... well, you get where that conversation is going
My goals are:
-3 to -4 degrees camber in the front
0 to -.5 camber in the rear
maintain factory spec on toe/caster F&R (for now)
what A-arms and rear camber arms have the adjustability to reach these numbers on a lowered car? I've noticed most aftermarket A-arms have advertised adjustability of only +/- 2.5 and most camber arms +/-1.5.
I live about a half hour from SPC's headquarters so I may just give them a call and see if they did any one-off parts for Tanner's car that have more adjustability than the parts they sell to the general public. If so... well, you get where that conversation is going
Last edited by Citrus; 04-06-2009 at 12:57 PM.
#2
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Is the camber arm actually maxed out or is it limited by keeping the toe settings in check? Do you have the SPC toe bolts installed in the correct location? If the toe is what is limiting and your arms still have adjustment, then you can go with the SPL midlink arms in the rear. Why do you want to run such little camber in the rear though?
#3
Alignment shop is saying the camber arm is maxed out. Toe bolts aren't installed yet, I'll get to that later this month. I don't normally like to **** with adjustable alignment pieces in my garage, but I may get out a paint pen, mark the current alignment and see if I can add more positive camber (maybe the alignment shop was adjusting them incorrectly?).
The reason for so much +camber in the rear is tire wear (again... drift setup here). Fully compressed in a corner, I'm already gaining another degree or two of -camber. This eats inside tire shoulders fairly rapidly. I can only stuff 4 wheels/tires in the Z when I take it to the track (no passenger seat) so I like getting the most sessions per tire that I can.
The reason for so much +camber in the rear is tire wear (again... drift setup here). Fully compressed in a corner, I'm already gaining another degree or two of -camber. This eats inside tire shoulders fairly rapidly. I can only stuff 4 wheels/tires in the Z when I take it to the track (no passenger seat) so I like getting the most sessions per tire that I can.
#4
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If you don't have the toe bolts installed. I can guarantee that the camber arms are not maxed out and its the toe that is limiting you and not the camber arms themselves. The car toes in significantly as you decrease negative camber
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