Yeah. Sometimes you get parts and its like "god this is overpriced," or you can tell it just didn't have a lot of R&D put into it. And sometimes you get parts that have lots of little details put into them, this falls into the latter. Gonna try to get this all in tomorrow, depends on if the lift is open, if not tomorrow it'll be monday.

 

I like parts like this, I probably would not use this to it's full potential, but just the fact that I could just by adding or removing shims makes me want to buy a pair.

 

Quick question regarding the koni, do they come with a perch? or do u have to cut your old ones off and use them? I think i see a set perches in your pic toward the left did it come with them?

 

I just had the revised Upper Arms installed on my g35c at GTM, I also had them install the SPL rear camber arms and SPL front and rear swaybar endlinks.

The parts are very well made and the customer service is great. As I was trying to get the work done while I was on vactaion. They even called me to ask if I wanted the chrome or black camber arms and updated me on the ETA of parts. I just picked the car up on Thursday from GT Motorsports. So I do not have any feedback on them as yet! I'll post up any info I can after riding on them for a week or so.

 

I bought them used, and there is a handful of stuff I'm doing differently.

The springs in the pictures are fronts, they mount on custom lowers (That I bought with the shocks), and allow me to run a Tein tapered spring with custom spring rates.

I do have a set of spring seats, that I assumed came with the Koni's that will work with the stock springs, but I'm not positive of that.

All in all, I have a lot of crap that won't be used.

 

They look like well made kit. How would this set compair to the cusco a arms?? In terms of build quality and strength??

 

The only other arms I've seen in person were the Stillen arms. Personally, these blow those away.

There are some huge differences in design though, these are billet AL, those are chromoly steel, steel is stronger, but the plate design they use for the adjustment section is kinda weak, these use spherical bearings, most other options use bushings.

Personally, it was a tough call, the Cusco's look sweet, these look like a much better arm to me, if you're willing to deal with the lack of bushing.

 

K, got everything in today, and aside from my attempt at a DIY rear alignment fix - which might be a fail, I need to play with it some more, real alignment is Friday, so no biggy (Z isn't my daily).

Some notes of install:

Have a good grinder, we had an air grinder, and had little to no trouble grinding down the "stegosaurus bumps" on the back of the spindle upright (you'll know what I'm talking about when you see them).

Have either a huge breaker bar or air tools. We had air tools, it was easy.

Be patient with getting the bolts in on the upper, I put the struts in location first, and got the lower bolt in, then put the A-arms in, and moved the strut forward/rearward to get the A-arm inner bolts in. The spherical bearings were a bit tricky, lock them in place BEFORE installing them on the car, I didn't do this the first time, and realized I couldn't get a wrench on the lock nuts, and had to remove them from the car, redo, and reinstall.

I strongly encourage the Koni shocks. Two friends rode with me, one who has TC Kline DA coils on his E46 M3, and one who has PSS9's with modified springs on his E46 330. The 330 owner now believes me that softer is better for many situations (and has turned his shocks from full stiff to just pass middle stiff). The car rides smoother, takes speed bumps better, etc., but has more roadholding capability, I have a lot of trouble breaking the tires free. This is coupled with ~430 lb/in rear (stock) springs, and ~450 lb/in front (tien tapered on custom lower mounts) springs.

I feel like the car could use a stiffer rear bar and a lot of alignment work in the back. I dialed as much camber and toe out as I could, quickly, and even with a .5" rear drop I feel like I'm going to need the SPC camber arms and toe bolts.

 

I assume you are referring to the side which connects to the firewall (and is used to adjust caster)?

 

Exactly, otheise everything went in easily.

 

Do you have to use loctite on the nut that connects the camber arm to the spindle like the version 1 camber arm?

 

I think the loctite is just for safety since it does not use a cotter pin like the OEM nut.

 

Thanks I just sent him a PM!!!

~Robert

 

I didn't use any.

 

Have these been tested on track with wide sticky R compounds? Are these capable of being tracked and driven hard?

 

Our products are all designed for track use. This is the ST2 class 350Z we prepped at the last event with our v2 front upper arms, Moton Clubsports, Fulcrum aero, Hoosier R6s, pulling about 1.8g in cornering:

http://vimeo.com/4468278

 

I'll also note, I've driven enough (although not thousands of miles) to say that I cannot (nor could my passenger) distinguish any noise that would be caused by the spherical bearings (instead of rubber bushings) on the A-arms.

I love these arms, I just wish I could justify buying the rest of the SPL stuff (isn't necessary for me).

 

Perfect. Thank you sir.

Love your solid bushings

 

I am liking this option for when I get coilovers Thanks for the reviews!!!

 

got mine installed tonight at home. very good looking a-arm. if it performs and lasts as good as it looks - we have a winner !

since i did it @ home i did not grind of the bumps... yuk ! i have to take it to a shop for that ....