SPC Toe Q's
So I've got the passenger side of my car installed so I know what I'm looking at... My questions are the following.
1. When they say it should be able to rotate 360 with one of the shims on. What exactly do they mean? Obviouslly the bolt will rotate 360 in the hole.
2. Call me slow but I can't see how SPC bolts help over stock? It's the elongating the hole that is getting more angle. Couldn't you just do the same with the stock bolts?
Cheers fellas. Just wanting to make sure i do it 100%..
1. When they say it should be able to rotate 360 with one of the shims on. What exactly do they mean? Obviouslly the bolt will rotate 360 in the hole.
2. Call me slow but I can't see how SPC bolts help over stock? It's the elongating the hole that is getting more angle. Couldn't you just do the same with the stock bolts?
Cheers fellas. Just wanting to make sure i do it 100%..
1. Per directions you are supposed to elongate both sides of the slot in which the toe bolt sits. If you did this, then the cams (the circular washers on each side of the bolt) and the bolt will be able to rotate 360 degrees. If you only elongated the inside slot (which should be all that is needed), then the cams will not rotate the full 360, but more like about a 270 deg angle (because the shorter outside slot prevents full movement of the bolt and cams.
2. The SPC cams/bolt help by increasing the radius of the bolt hole from the center of the circular cam. This results in an increased range of motion of the toe bolt (since it is positioned farther away from the center of the cam), and a greater range of adjustability for the lower spring seat.
IMO you could not do this with the stock cams, because you need to have the bolt locked in place (i.e. not just a simple matter of elongating the hole in the cams for the toe bolt). I wouldn't risk removing that much material from the stock piece. I could see one easily being fabbed though.
2. The SPC cams/bolt help by increasing the radius of the bolt hole from the center of the circular cam. This results in an increased range of motion of the toe bolt (since it is positioned farther away from the center of the cam), and a greater range of adjustability for the lower spring seat.
IMO you could not do this with the stock cams, because you need to have the bolt locked in place (i.e. not just a simple matter of elongating the hole in the cams for the toe bolt). I wouldn't risk removing that much material from the stock piece. I could see one easily being fabbed though.
Appreciate the reply mate..
I guess the confusion for me with the rotation of the bolt is the shims are kind of restricted by the humps in the sub frame. Just trying to understand how you get more angle on the bolt considering both sides look to have to slot in between the "humps".
May sound a little dense but I'm still trying to get my head around how it adjusts. Not for my own DIY alignments or anything but just so i understand.
I guess the confusion for me with the rotation of the bolt is the shims are kind of restricted by the humps in the sub frame. Just trying to understand how you get more angle on the bolt considering both sides look to have to slot in between the "humps".
May sound a little dense but I'm still trying to get my head around how it adjusts. Not for my own DIY alignments or anything but just so i understand.
The humps are critical because their job is to hold the cam in place. Again, the cams aren;t supposed to move laterally, they are only supposed to rotate, with the "humps" keeping it secured in place.
I made a little diagram to help. Let me know what you think:
I made a little diagram to help. Let me know what you think:
Just re-read your question #1. You need to make sure the bolt AND the cams together will rotate 360deg in the hole. Yes, the bolt by itself will rotate 360deg (of course), but when the bolt is locked in the cams, it may not if you havent elongated the slot enough.
To check, just insert the bolt with both cams (one on each side) and loosely apply the washer. Make sure each of the cams is "locked" onto each "hump," (as in - flush with the surface of the chassis on each side) and check that it rotates properly. Hint: You dont need to have the rear spring arm in place when testing the rotation, just test fit the cams/bolt with it still hanging out of the way.
To check, just insert the bolt with both cams (one on each side) and loosely apply the washer. Make sure each of the cams is "locked" onto each "hump," (as in - flush with the surface of the chassis on each side) and check that it rotates properly. Hint: You dont need to have the rear spring arm in place when testing the rotation, just test fit the cams/bolt with it still hanging out of the way.
This has been more than helpfull. I'm going to check I did it correct when i get home then tackle the other side.. The diagram was over and above and should be added to the DIY section.
Thanks again mate.
Thanks again mate.
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