Hey guys, so I just got some rear camber arms in today from Ichiba and I ran into a problem. The nut and bolt that they give you with it does not thread no matter what. I even took the bolt out and tried threading it on with locking pliers on one end and a breaker bar on the other and no go. Both ones that they give you have the same problem, I don't know why they'd give you bad bolts for them but whatever.

So I reused the factory bolt and nut for the camber arms. Is that okay or are the new ones different? It looks like its a normal bolt and the new one is just shiny, but I want to make sure its not going to throw things off by not using the one supplied. If anyone knows please post up, thanks.

 

im lost as to what bolt your talking about, the rear camber arm is really self explanatory install....

Do you have any pics of which bolt and where your trying to put it...??

-J

 

The factory bolts are OK to reuse.

 

Yea the install was fine. The bolt that they give you for the camber arm does not thread, as in the nut doesn't spin on the bolt. It is not the toe bolt, as I opted to not get them since I'm only dropping an inch in the rear. So I reused the factory one. I was wondering if its okay to use the OEM camber arm bolt instead of the one that Ichiba supplies in the box.

Okay, thank you!

 

They are actually the Toe Bolts that he is trying to use on the camber arms. Common mistake and YES the ichiba bolts suck. I had the same prob with the last set of ichiba arms i installed.

 

I didn't pay for the extra toe bolts though, the guy said I didn't need them for my 1.0" rear drop.

But what did you do then? Just let elongate the hole and use the stock bolt?

 

the ichiba arms COME with toe bolts - and yes, they suck

another reason why overall, for slightly more money, the Eibach really is the best kit out there

even at a 1/2 inch drop, you could be out of toe spec and beyond what the factory toe bolt can correct for...maybe, maybe not, only way to know is to do a before/after on the alignment rack

 

oh......i get it, ya well if the kit comes with toe bolts, and your thinking they are replacement camber bolts, then ya dude, you don't use those at your camber arm locations..........

Reuse the bolts you used to remove your factory camber arm and install the ichiba adjustable arm with them...


The other bolts from what others are saying are actually the toe bolts???? if so then they have the Eccentric washers right??? the weird oval/egg shaped washers?? one on each side, 4 total??


is that how the kit comes guys???

-J

 

Oh, then I guess it included the toe bolts when the guy I ordered them from said they didn't, haha.

Can I just dremel out the hole for the toe bolts using the template in the DIY section but use the OEM bolt? They look the same.

Why would Ichiba supply a nut and bolt that aren't the same thread? Cheap ****, lol. How hard is it to give their customers matching hardware?

Yes, the bolts included in the Ichiba box are those with the round washers with offset holes and 1 flat side on each, for each side of the bolt.

 

If you use the OEM bolt you won't need to elongate the hole. The toe bolt's with the kit have a larger eccentric washer on them. That is the reason you need to elongate. If you elongate the hole and reuse the OEM bolt's it won't change anything.

 

Exactly!!!

lay the washers over top each other, the new washers should have the bolt going through them more at one edge --- then the OEM bolt goes through the Oem washers.... that make sense???? in another words, the oem bolt goes through the oem eccentric washers more in the center of those washers than does the new bolt and new washers........

that's why you need to "SLOT" the doctors pill location with the template......in order to get more "throw" for alignment??


...........Thus allowing more push/pull in the toe arm/spring bucket arm.....which will get you back into alignment after lowering the car???????

-J

 

Ah I get it now. So is my problem the same as everyone with the Ichibas or did I get a defective one? As in...can I get new ones from Ichiba or do they basically just skrew everyone by giving the wrong hardware and hope that no one complains.

Or...can I just get a new nut that threads onto the Ichiba bolt at an auto parts store or is the bolt also specific?

Thanks guys for all your help, I really appreciate it.

 

If the problem is that the nut is the wrong size, then you should be able to get a new nut as long as the threads aren't stripped from you trying to force it on. I would not use a nut from a hardware store though and try and find a grade 8 nut from a specialty fastener store that can hold up to the suspension forces

 

Ok great, I'll go searching tomorrow. Thanks for your help.

 

Why does everyone keep saying that ICHIBA toe bolts suck? What is wrong with them really?

 

Anyone care to help? Why do they suck?

 

I've noticed this problem too. I got my ichiba rear arms about a week ago and noticed that the nut for the toe bolts won't thread past the end of the bolt. So you're saying this is not normal??

Anyone find a solution to this yet? Should I try and get ichiba to replace them or just go with SPC bolts?

 

The problem is they are a crap made product. The eibachs are like 50 bucks more. This is a major suspension component in the rear of the car...