I'm not sure about the pad height, but I was told by George at GTM that I can do that, probably knock off 5mm, but I'd rather take things step by step and see where I'm at and then proceed to the next step.

 

I agree, just wanted to throw it out there in case it wasn't on your radar.

 

I actually wasn't aware of it at first, so if he hadn't mentioned it, I would have known now...thanks

 

do the hks coils have independent preload and height adjustment? If so crank up the preload on the springs which will maker their effective springrate higher

 

Yeah, I've already adjusted the preloaded on the shocks. It helped a little but still got plenty of rubbing going on. When I drive alone, it's actually not bad, but there are times when I have passengers and/or items in the trunk, and that's when I run into most of the rubbing.

 

Have you taken your spare out yet?

 

thats more of an insult to honda's

while the whole stretch thing isn't really my cup of tea, i can see how some people like it. but this is just rediculous...

 

You have a tire and wheel setup that cannot function, won't debate the how or why anyone would do that to themselves. I know you like the look, but it doesn't function, oh NM.

You'll never out run your problems until,.........

You pull fenders and flare.

Or

Get a relistic tire and wheel choice and allows the suspenion it's required full range of motion.

Having been on 650lbs spring rates, I can tell you will still get wheel travel that will allow the tires to continue the distruction they've already been doing. 650lbs is pretty high for the street as it is.

Only thing that just might work is to use the full length adjustabliity of the dampers in combination with aftermarket high rate bumpstops. You would be using the bumpstops to spike effective spring rate just before the tire and fender connect. Cost is cheap and the greatest difficulty would be doing the install so that you get the max bumpstop stiffness just before contact. I'd use Koni part number Kon71.34.92.000.0 Worst case is you aren't able to adjust the damper lengths to make things work, or your into the bumpstops greater stiffness in daily driving too often. Nice thing is though, it's just a $100 investment. Disclaimer, I really REALLY recommend the fender pulling/flare or a different tire and wheel combo.

Here's a chart that show's how much stiffness you gain when the bumpstop is compressed a given amount. http://www.koniracing.com/images/File/bumpgralarge.JPG

Here's where you can buy the bumpstops
http://www.truechoicekoniracingservi...eb_Catalog.pdf

 

Oh, anyone that want's $300-$400 to revalve = we really don't want that part of the business and hope you won't bother because we priced it that way on purpose,...IMO of course.

I don't see anyone else having the specialized tools that will open them up, then they'd have to have a work bench full of different shim sizes for revalving, may or may not be easy depending on shaft diameter. Translation, pay HKS's rate or I don't see another revalving option being open.

 

Yep, only have a torqure wrench, breaker bar, some sockets, front license plate, and a foldable chair in the trunk.

Yeah, tomorrow (hopefully) I'll be getting the fenders pulled quite a bit more. Would you still recommend the bumpstops if there is enough clearance?

 

No, don't do the bumpstops if your able to clear. I was just recommending them as secondary springs to be used to prevent tire contact. It's a extream bandaid for a extream situation and like I said it might not work all that well if you end up ridding on the bumpstops in everyday. But, vs rubbing like you have been, it would be a lessor evil. Which really isn't the kind of thing I'm comfortable with as a solution since it would really compromise where the suspenison is able to travel, like tucking into the fender.

 

Ah, gotcha. Thanks for the clarification. I'm currently looking into getting the Stance GR+ coilovers, taking out the spring buckets, and using a toe arm. At this point I can camber more so that I will actually be able to fit a wider tire (possibly) in the future and still not go through tires every couple weeks. I would have gone with more camber from the getgo, but I know my toe would have been way off and I'd rather not do that and waste a new set of tires.

 

wow is it really a 205 on 10.5? thats really stretched

 

No, that would be intense. It's a 225/35 on a 10.5.

 

^as if a 225 on a 10.5 isn't intense

 

Lol...it is but not as intense as a 205

 

something like this would be cheaper in the long run

 

Finally got the fender pulled and with the vehicle going all the way down on one side and up on the other, here's how the rears are looking...just need stiffer coils which I bought, so I should be fine...but now I want bags by the looks of this.






Almost done. Throwing spacers on in the front, then I'll be ready to go.

 

doesn't the wheel hit the finder now?

 

No, it's not that low, that was when backing out my friend's driveway. The other wheel had like a 4" gap. I haven't lowered the vehicle so I still have a good 2" gap or so. It will if I drive like an idiot, but I don't go past 70 on the freeway, maybe 75 if I know the freeway well enough to slow down for dips. In those pics it was very close to hitting the fender, pretty much paper thin. I'm going to leave it at the height I had it at before till I get the Stance coils and since those are stiffer, I'll drop it down about half an inch and see how it does before driving.

I'd like to pull it more to get the lip in there, but it's gonna need quite a bit more pull and cambering. For my next tire setup I'll be able to put on a bit wider of a tire by going with a 235/35 and the front I will downgrade to a 215/35 (if they make them, if not, then 225/30's) so that they will match. And it won't have as crazy of a stretch, yet still fit with no issues.