I currently have HKS Hypermax III's, non-sport, which have spring rates of 9 kg all around. I need at least 12 kg all around and speaking with HKS they don't recommend going with more than 2 kg than original, otherwise it would need a revalve.

I was wondering if anyone has recommendations as to where I can get my shocks revalved and approx how much it would cost. Going through HKS I believe I was quote at 300 or 400 each shock. Paying 1,200 - 1,500 is not worth it to me as I would rather look into another set of coilovers or go with air bags.

 

why do you "need" 12kg all around?

edit:
just get airbags like you want

 

So the choices are between 12kg all around and bags?













Awesome.

 

Air bags will cost me about 3,500 (installed). I don't have that kind of money unless I buy used.

Reason I'm going with 12kg, or possibly more, is because the HKS is not stiff enough. I'm not fully lowered yet, need to do more of a pull on my fenders, but at the current height, this is what's goin on.





As you can see, the paint has chipped off and you can't even tell what kind of tires I have anymore....all the writing on it has been rubbed off.

 

Looks like a result of poor (or great depending on your outlook) fitment.

I think this: ('06 IP G35 Sedan - 20x10.5 +0 rears ) has something to do with it.

Warmmilks right, just get airbags.

 

Haha, yeah....I wanted to step it up and run offsets some of you Z fellas run. I really need a bit more of a pull, just a few mm, but the issue after that is whether or not lip of the wheels will make contact with the fender. Haven't had a chance to meet up with someone to pull my fenders, but looks like tomorrow I'll be able to.

I could camber the rears more (at -3.5 right now, but then it will really mess with my toe, and I can't get to arms of course, unless I had true coils. I'm thinking about going with Stance GR+ coilovers so I can go that route, might be cheaper, was just looking at various options and costs with the different routes there are.

 

That stretch looks ridiculous, was it that... a 205 on a 10.5? I can't believe you guys trust that crap.

Good luck I guess.

 

225/35 on a 10.5. I had 245's but it stuck out WAY too much and even a major fender pull wouldn't suffice. I'd want to go with 235's but even then it may not fit well. In the future I'll be getting fender flares or just going widebody so I can fit a tire size I want...and of course, even wider rims

 

It looks like you need flares as is, do you have any shots from the rear?

 

Only have a couple, haven't really taken much just because I wanted to wait till I get this fully done.







I tested to see how much it needs to be pulled yesterday. And it looks like 5mm will do the trick, and possibly be more than plenty. I don't rub on all bumps, just major ones and when I am entering/exiting a freeway with a sharp curve. Originally, the paint and fender was destroyed because I had 245/35's on the wheels and those stuck out maybe an inch more than where they are at now. I'm eating more of the inner fender now as opposed to before, where it was the bottom of it.

 

To my untrained eye, it looks like the wheel is sticking out about 50mm-70mm from the fender. I don't even see how you could do a proper flare with the rear door there.

I'm sorry I won't be much help, I think your fitment is so poor that no amount of stretch, camber, or roll or pull... will correct it. I'm sure you knew going in that G35 sedans require a much more positive offset than a 350z, and I'd consider your offset low even for a 350z. Being a -3.5 camber already, I just think it's all useless. You have less tire on the ground than factory.

Maybe your people can help you.

Good day.

 

+1 on the rear flare - w/ a slightly wider rear tire. As far as the coils - prob just sell those and get diff ones.

 

But what flare? He has a rear door there.


A universal flare is still possible, but it will require a ton of work to not look like total crap when you open the door (or closed for that matter).

 

Your input is much appreciated. I tested it yesterday to see how much clearance I have. Basically car was on jacks, then I jacked up the wheel. As you know it will camber more the higher the wheel goes towards the fender (or lower the fender comes to the tire, same thing). It almost goes all the way in...you can kind of see where the fender is hitting the tire, basically the middle of where all the writing of the tires come out, almost at the furthest part of the tire.

Having stretched tires is quite common, especially amongst those that are into the VIP look such as Infiniti M's and Q's along with several Lexus models. I don't track my car, nor do I drive like a maniac. I believe factory tires that came with my vehicle were 215's, although they were a 50 or 55 sidewall....so comparable in a sense??? Not sure, just guessing.

As for the flare, right now it's about pulling the fenders. The flares would be molded on as well and honestly, I'd have to look more deeply into that when the time comes.

 

The tire is falling off the wheel. Looks like a retarded Honda.

 

The flare would blend from the sideskirt up and around the perimeter and would look decent if done right....ala less angular and more parabolic.

 

New coils is what I'm looking at doing, just need to find some soon.

 

Some like the stretched look, some don't. I really wanted a 235/35 but as mentioned it wouldn't fit. Ideally the 245/35 looked perfect but that doesn't fit at all.

 

As shown in the picture below, the yellow line is where I'm currently rubbing. As you can see, there isn't much more clearance that I need. A better fender pull will be enough to give me clearance, at which point I can lower my car more and it will look more flush, alot more flush IMO.

Next step, if this does not solve things, is getting the fenders flared. At that point I'll run the tires till the end of their life and get 235's, possibly 245's (though I doubt those will fit) and fitment will be dead on (for the aggressive/stretched look).

 

I think even with the stretched tire fitment, you're still a good 25mm too negative IMO. I've seen others that I thought looked alright (though still wouldn't do because I like tire on the ground), but seriously it's just way out there. I think you may be able to tweak it just a bit so that maybe it doesn't rub, but ultimately I don't think it will look right.

I don't hear this discussed often, but what is the pad height on these wheels? In some cases it can be shaved (or rather cut) down precisely which would theoretically get you a more positive offset, but it's definitely not possible on all wheels and it can be hard to find a machine shop to do it.