i need some input about why i should choose th TEIN super racing instead of tanabe seven =)

does anybody have the super racing installed? pics on hor it works with 2 motors per damper? and it says something about changing the rear sway bar?

http://www.tein.com/products/super_racing.html

http://www.tanabe-usa.com/seven.asp?id=16

 

To offer some encouragement the quality of Tein vs Tanabe isn't something me myself would consider. I'd most definitely buy the Tein first no matter how much more they are in expense. Just the quality of what you're buying *to me* is better through tein.

 

hmm.allright. the only exsperince i have of tein is the cheaper and older models and they have had some some problems wity rust.

i really like that i can adjust both compression and "rebound" (?) in the tein. but they look like alot more job to install

 

do you have the datalogging equipment that's really needed to adjust compression and rebound independantly from one another? Is this a race car or a street car? All the adjustment in the world is pretty useless if you don't understand what you're doing, or need such levels of adjustment in the first place.

Consider that at least with Tanabe: I've had a customer who 2 times bent the lower fork on their coilovers on a Z (I forget it it was Pro 5 or Pro 7)...first one side, and most recently, the other. 0 track use, just street. The first time I believe it took several months to get a replacement. The second time it happened, he decided to just switch and picked up a set of KW V3 from us. Purely annecdotal I know, but it's the first time I've ever seen a car not in an accident bend such a piece, on any car.

 

a friend of mine has tein coils in front and back on his z and after going for a ride in his ..i m def buying a set of these in the near future....sry no pics

 

ALSO< you get what you pay for....theres a reason some things are cheaper then others

 

except neither of these are cheap, and frankly, neither are worth it either

 

ans sorry to say many brand let you pay just for the name.

so why arent the Teins worth it? after what you whrote about the tanabe i really dont want them

the car os mostly a track car and IF used on the streets its only hard driving.

no , no loggers or so. just the apparance of the car .

i will hade the equipment to ADJUST them. but no not to see the difference

 

Your talking about cheap street coil springs and were talking about higher end coilovers. So how are you helping?


Well the tanabe coilovers have horrible spring rates for what your doing, and i can't find the Tien spring rates. Your building a track car and running wide R comp tires. I would look at other coilovers, probably also in the 14 to 16f spring and matched to slightly less rear springs.

 

allright.. i thought 10kg whould be fine. i have/had 10 kg rear and 12 front.

and since i have no weight left in the rear and the front is going on a diet i thought someting lik that would do again.

any suggestion on what i should buy instead?

PS wery nice that you keep an eye on me =)


do you need some info on the car? im more then glad to answer.


here´s some info
http://www.garaget.org/?car=40534

and here´s alot of pics
http://s163.photobucket.com/albums/t...erre/?start=20

 

Setting a coilover with independant compression and rebound is extremely time consuming, and unless you are familiar with such setups, and have the datalogging equipment to actually see what you're changing and how that affects things, it is a complete was of your time and money.

I would not make any spring rate recommendations because frankly they don't tell you much. Spring rates are driven by the dampers they are connected to, as well as driver preference, the type of track, your tire. If you're serious about building a track car, spring rates become an ever changing, evolving aspect of the development. Instead I would start with the default spring rate that the coilover manufacturer gives you, and as you dial the coilovers in over a series of track days, etc, you will gain real world perspective as to whether you need a change, or not, based on your own preferences.

Comparing one brand of coilover with one set of rates, and another brand of coilover with the same, or different rates, is pretty useless. The only meaningful comparison is comparing the same coilover, with various rates. Only then will you get any sort of meaningful data.

 

you aint making it easier for me hehe

most important about the car is thats it should be fun to drive. i love to drift. but from time to time when a attend a time attack i want to kick ***

 

still need a budget. but anyways you'd be safe to stick with hks hypermax, cusco zero 2, ohlins, or zeals.

 

ok. no more then 3500 dollars and i need in avaible in a months time

 

ok. from TEIN i can ordet either 16kgf/mm or 14kgf/mm, the 16 are just for this super racing modell and 14 are for the monoflex model

 

öhlins dont have ¨their real stuff to our car yet. whats avaible today is something completly else made in japan just with their name.
real öhlins are so far only custom made ( here in sweden) and cost around 17.000 dollars!

from next summer they will produce real öhlins coilovers in japan but with the swedish standard.



I checked out HKS hipermax but they dont have so i can adjust them from inside the car? now KW iether? i really really want that. i dint had that before and i hated that

 

i found this

 

Like you at one time I wrote off the 350Z Ohlins product, because I didn't think they were real Ohlins, after speaking with Ohlins, I changed my opinion. No matter where and whom makes the PCV or DFV Ohlins coilover, they are only offered by Ohlins for sale elsewhere after having been tested (7-post shaker rig) and having met Ohlins standards. I own the PCV setup and I dyno'd them before I installed them. They are valved in the stiffer settings simular to the Truechoice Phase IV coilovers I had,(which were R&D by the 350Z Grand AM team Unitech). But they have a really good adjustor design that allow's them to dial down to a more manageable street damping level.

So your making a choice based on having in car damping adjustablity? Now I know why your on Megan Racing coilovers now (according to the web page you posted). Do yourself a favor, let someone that knows about suspension's make your choice for you, you've using a flawed thought process that is doomed.

I would not touch the Tanabe Seven's, slide valve adjustors, NOOOOOOOO thank you.

Tein SRC, get shock dyno's and pm them to me. No shock dyno's no purchase, and see below concerning spring rates.

Honestly, in your case I'd get Kw Variant 3, dyno them so you know what damping changes are happening when you adjust them and do a rear linear spring conversion. Or I'd consider the Ohlins DFV. Your also in the price range of Anze Engineering Penske 8300's, which you can have valved to your pleasure and spring rate choice.

On the subject of spring rates. Remember this above all else.
1. NO ONE CAN TELL YOU WHAT SPRING RATES ARE BEST!!!
2. THE HIGHER THE NUMBERS ARE YOU HEAR, THE MORE YOU NEED TO REMEMBER RULE NUMBER 1.

Below is a cut and paste from a what to run thread from the auto-x road racing section.

What spring rates to run ultimately comes down the math being right AND proving the math with actualy testing. The following give's some insight to a winning Grand-Am teams testing on the 350Z in terms of spring rates.

The following quotes comes from a interview of the owner of Unitech Racing Jackson Stewart, the crew chief for the 350Z Grand-Am team Jeff Wisener and the owner of Perfomance Nissan, Michael Cronin.

SZM: "I noticed a trend that many Z owners are putting coil-over suspension systems on their cars, but you mentioned today on the track that many people are putting too stiff a suspensin and actually making the car handle less effectively. Is that true and can you comment on that again, please?"

Stewart: "Yes, it is absolutely true. Most of the aftermarket suspensions sold for the car are way too stiff. More often then not, for actual track performance, a lot of upgrades are hurting the performance of the car."

Cronin: "The common perception is you don't want a car to sway in turns, squat during acceleration, or dive during bracking, but those are things you need to have the car do to handle correctly."

SMZ: When setting up your race cars, did you use or try any of the common aftermarket suspension kits that are avaliable?"

Stewart: We looked at then in a sense that we wanted to know what was out there, but we also had gone through a range of springs on the car and if we went siffer, we lost performace. We have a range of a few poinds we use in the rear to make it oversteer or understeer. So if we see a spring someone is running on the street that is 50 percent stiffer, they are losing overall performance." {His use of the 50% number is a somewhat ironic number to toss out given that 314lbs upped 50% is 471lbs and yet they went with 525lbs or +67% in the front. Unitech did the R&D for the Truechoice 350Z coilover system and that setup uses 525/425 spring rates}.

Same interview makes mention of the following,....
Future parts for sale:
Moton Club Sport suspension package

To comment on the above, they switched to a Koni 2822 4-way monotube setup

 

as a follow up, my preferred suggestion to him via PM was actually the KW Clubsport, this way we get into the linear springs without any drama, and we can set the valving up up front, to suit

the Ohlins would be a good choice too, but the wait time right now is a bit lengthy

 

no but thats what öhlins here in sweden told me lik5 a week ago.

and theese Tein´s have the same design with that extra little oil cointainer and etc.

yes the things i want is that they should be meant for track. adjusteble and adjusteble from inside.

those megans racing was a sort off sponsor thing but i changed the springs to H&R .

yes since i dont have mutch experiance more then what other people say and since the Z33 isnt so usuall here in sweden and we are only 2 or 3 guys here that are serious with tuning our Z33´s ,

so of course i turn to you guys


why i big NO on the tanabe?

shocks dyno? is this it?




yes about spring rates i think that a little odd to have the same "strenght" both front and rear since the front weight alot more on my car.

and about not making the car to stiff , that was the whole plan with adjusteble coilovers and swaybar


am i on the right track?