what do you mean with linear springs?

 

explain how in car adjustment of dampening is useful on a race car? not like you make adjustments while you're racing the car anyway.

for something like the Tein's, you would need 2 sets of EDFC - one to do compression, one to do rebound. That's 2 control units, 8 motors, the harnesses for them all. That's alot of extra useless BS for something you can't even adjust while you're driving on a track in the first place.

linear springs are just that - they have the same rate (or very, very close) throughout the travel of the spring

progressive springs are the opposite - they have softer rates at the top of the spring and as they compress, they get stiffer

for a true track car, linear is what you want

 

nr 1 problem is that i drive to and from the track

nr 2 is that i think that when youre real elite then you want different settings for different tracks.

nr 3 is that i want it stiff as F when i drift.

nr 4 is becuse it has happend to many times that i have forgotten to change them before i go out on the track after beeing on the highway or having them in soft mode when suddently somebody want to race ( outside tracks)



so my big problem both with choosing tires and the need of adjusteble coilovers is that i spend 5-6 hours one way to get to track days.

 

No on the Tanabe because of the Slide valve adjustors, inconsistant and generally not your friend when comes to dynamic range, needle valves are much superior on both fronts. Not a fan of twin tube dampers being asked to run any spring rate over 560lbs in rate. Because they have difficultly generating suffecient force levels they tent to over do rebound control to a fault and or they have terrible pressure imbalances inside the damper tring too hard to generate those high force levels, hysteresis in high levels is not you friend.

Ohlins USA said the same thing Ohlins Sweden is telling you now 4 years ago, different story in the USA now.

This is what I'm talking about. Tein and Ohlins are not in the same league. The SRC does not have the MSV valving system according to the specs on Teins web site, nor does Tein really explain how the system works to know if it actually fuction's as well as the Ohlins DFV.

The only way I'd touch the SRC is if I was willing to revalve and respring them. That instantly kills them for me since I can get a much superior Penske 8300 for less money then that and I get to pick my valving and spring rates. If the ohlins I have now didn't look as good as they do on the dyno, I would have went with Kw Varisnt 3 or the Penske's.

 

Didn't know the stock supply issue with Ohlins.

Clubsports would be good, for his circumstances. I just woudn't equip them with much more spring rate then the Variant 3 comes with (which is 525/548), my opinion based on damper design of course.

 

hmm..så öhlins or KW no mather what?

are they adjusteble?

but not from the inside right?

 

link me to those KW so i can se exacly what modell we are talking about

 

what about http://www.jrzusa.net/products/race/


ànd why are HKS good? http://www.hksusa.com/products/more.asp?id=3437

 

The customer who buys an HKS coilover is not the customer who buys a JRZ coilover. I'd bet half the people who own HKS coilovers have never even heard of JRZ, or things in that realm. JRZ coilovers are built to order units, with custom everything. Everything is ala carte. They don't come with springs, for example.

The Clubsports us a different damper from the V3 - front and rear springs are linear, for example. Rear default rate is 455 lbs, front rate is much higher than a standard V3. Like anything else though at that level, anything can be custom done, from rates to valving.

 

so JRZ is the ****? with starting prices from?

 

everyone's opinions will vary - at that level of coilover, it is far more about the person setting them up for you, than it is choosing what brand.

price = in the "if you have to ask" category (significantly more than anything being discussed)

 

heheh.. yeah i noticed that..just insane!



iwould really like to read or see a review on them

 

Adam, you said early in the thread that you knew someone who damaged their coilovers with plain street driving not once, but twice, and they were running Tanabe Pro5/7s...

Who's camber/toe kits were they using? Is it possible there was interference between the arms and the shocks somehow? Just curious because I'm quasi shopping for Pro7s... and I'm a bit shocked, actually- this is the first time I've heard anything negative about them...

 

the bottom of the coilover is what broke, not the top. The factory arm it mounted too was perfectly fine, bushings were fine, but the lower mounting bracket bent

 

Huh... Weird...

Maybe I should rethink things, eh..?

 

ultimately it can happen to any coilover, but really your call

the Pro 7, IMHO, are just way overpriced for what they are. At the price point of the Pro 5, there are better choices (IMHO) that I've outlined previously

 

I've had the tanabes on my other car with TEAS... and never had any problems with them. That's with DD and canyon runs. Yes I said canyon runs... along with 2-5 autoX days.

I guess it depends how one person drives his car...

 

Shock dyno thread...



Pulled from: http://www.tanabe-usa.com/seven.asp?id=16 (under 350z)