Hi,
My son has an 03 base model that has some mods including a Skunk2 racing plenum spacer. When we bought the car, we noticed that the strut bar was missing, and the previous owner said it was missing when he had purchased the car, and he just never got around to replacing it. He also never mentioned the plenum spacer (so maybe he didn't know it was in there).
Anyway, prior to discovering the plenum spacer, I bought a stock strut bar and installed it only to find that it pressed down against the plenum when fully tightened down. Not good, as the engine can't move freely when rev'd up.
So I took some measurements, and had a guy weld on some 1/2" spacers where the strut bar mounts to the car. (The Plenum Spacer is approx 1/2" thick.) Fits great...With the hood up that is!
So now what? I don't know how to measure the spacing I need in order to give the engine it's freedom while also allowing the hood to shut with no obstruction.
Anyone have any suggestions?
Thanks,
Z-Dad

 

you could have shimmed the base of the strut bar till you had the clearance with washers

 

Good point. I just acted too quickly thinking it would look a little better than a stack of washers. Rookie mistake, but I can get my fab shop guy to cut the spacers off and I'll go that route.
Thanks

 

Stock bar correct? You should be able to adjust it by turning the nut in the middle if I recall corectly. Did you try that?

 

Yeah, stock bar. I didn't use the adjustment nuts because I thought those lengthened the bar and maybe somehow made an adjustment I didn't want (like in the suspension, or alignment of the wheels or something). Forgive me... I am definitely not very knowledgeable in this area.

 

Be careful you dont dent the hood slamming it down too.. Cool Dad..

 

lol^^^hes got a point though

 

Adjusting those strut bar nuts wont do anything for the space between the hood and strut bar. Here are your options

1. Try a thinner spacer or washers under the strut bar mounts that wont allow the hood to hit the strut bar.
2. Remove that Skunk2 plenum spacer (which is why the original owner never had a strut bar because the 1/2in spacer is not meant to have a strut bar if I can recall correctly. (too thick)
3. Get a 5/16 motordyne spacer and you cant bolt on the stut bar no problem.

 

or you can get the crawford, aps, or stillen strut bar which go on the front of the plenum

 

Good idea. The OEM bar may not work with 1/2 inch spacer. Make things simple and get a different bar.

 

yea i dont think it does i mean you can clear the plenum with washers but you probably wont clear th hood after all the washers to clear the plenum..

 

Check with Skunk2, most makers of the plenum spacers supply a properly spaced washer for the stock strut bar. I know Motordyne supplied them with mine.

 

What spacer? Im sure it wasnt a 1/2 in, im telling you its too thick of a spacer to get a bar to fit.

 

what jay said...im positive the strut bar is not fitting without hitting the hood

 

Jealous...my dad thinks I'm a moron for modding

 

I take it back, Per Skunk2, it can't be used as they are saying.

 

There are a lot of threads about this

 

I would have have to say get a strut bar that mounts forward of the plenum. Sounds like the best option if you want to have a bar and not replace or remove the plenum spacer.

 

Thanks for all the advise and discussion on this issue. Looks like the stillen, or some other bar that sits in front of the plenum is the ONLY way to go. That spacer is actually 5/8" thick, and after looking around under the hood some more, there is zero clearance even without a strut bar. The plenum as well as the AEM cold air pipe near the throttle body have a small scuff mark on them from rubbing on the under side of the hood. Fortunately its on the thin framework welded to the hood.
Looking into the Skunk2 spacer some more, explains why the car is running lean. HKS exhaust (NO cats) doesn't help matters either. Always a little yellowish exhaust residue on the rear bumper.

Thanks again for the info everyone.

Z-Dad

 

I bet you could cut out a little bit of the skeleton under the hood if that is all its hitting. It'll save you probably $100 or whatever strut tower braces are costing these days.