If you think about the dynamics of those little studs that hold the rear strut in place. It is just that, holt it in place, they support no load. The load is actually on the surrounding area.

 

Where on the chasis do you guys measure the rake to set that 13mm difference mentioned elsewhere on this forum as optimal for a track?

 

in for a good suggestion for the right place to measure... when i did mine, i set the ride height by crosshairs on wheel center and edge of fender lip and then set the rear 10mm higher... i know is not exact but couldn't find a spot i was confident was the same front to rear

 

Ok question for you master fabricators out here, how thick is the aluminum you use for making your lockout washers and do you just use a grade 8 bolt to hold things back together? Was going to make some. Got the bolt, didnt get the aluminum yet, was going to use 1/8 inch thick aluminum though.... Thoughts?

 

get these and don't worry about it.... jasonzya on here. legit guy

http://350zhatchshocksandmore.com/Lockout%20Washers.htm

 

I used 3/32 on mine

 

Thanks, did you seek out 10.9 metric bolts or just go with the American grade 8 equivalents?

I originally planned to just use grade 8 washers and square the sides to fit, but now im thinking I will use aluminum and make square washers that fit between the grooves.

I put the whiteline subframe and differential bushings in as you advised... Ive done easier things but now that its almost complete it wasn't that bad. (Actually went smoother than I expected)

Hope to get the differential back in tomorrow and hopefully get the car driving again.

be putting in some adjustable camber arms next week some time, I maxed out the teins in the back so I removed the lock on the adjuster to go down another 1/4 inch, the other adjuster is bottomed out on the sleeve so its got nowhere to go anyways.

 

My local hardware store has a great metric selection, was simple to get for me

 

Does anyone know when they go to get their alignment done does the bolt usually end up maxed out to one end of the other on the eccentric bolt opening? For example does the bolt end up here.





Or does it end up in the opposite end?

 

Depends on how low you are

 

So theirs no general rule of thumb stock height goes left dropped would be on right... I dont know why I have it in my head that if I made lockout washers for my coil buckets and maxed them out to the appropriate side it would work out ok...

My grade 8 bolt idea was a bust... They dont fit, they are a charley hotel too big... Luckily I found some 10.9s at Rockys...



For anyone needing to know the size.

 

This is whiteline endlinks at the lowest lenth compared to the OEM one showing that both are almost identical, Is this normal or did i receive the wrong part ?

 

I've noted this over the years, people keep disagreeing with me and say you can shorten them to get a better angle when you lower the car.

The adjustment is only there to remove preload to properly corner weigh the car. SPL is also the same length, I had whiteline and currently have SPL. Power grid is also the same length

 

Me included, I bought them thinking that they can be shortened and sit at better angle on lowered cars.

Having the OEM endlinks in hand, They are not as bad as most people think. Can't beat them for the price also.

 

I agree completely. Sometimes parts get a bad name after a lot of abuse, its gonna have some wear and tear but the oem design is not that bad. I'm happy with the oem endlinks compared to what I've had in the past in other oem scenarios.

 

In about 2 weeks I'm going to tackle my Lower Ball Joints since they are busted. Looking over the whole car with a visible inspection, and a listening inspection. I can't find any other "bad bushings" since the car has 200k on the odometer with a used low mileage engine I can only assume lack of bad bushings someone has put some work into the car. Even in the rear it looks like the differential bushing is new.

I've tried the crowbar jammed on various links and prying and pushing for sounds/movement etc along with slow driving on horrible roads/parking lots with windows down listening.

So with that said besides the lower control arm ball joints job I'm going to do. The ones on the transverse link. I will lower my G with a .5 350z drop or a 1.5 inch drop in the G sedan world. I'm first going to grab rear control arms and camber bolts the ones with the lockout washers a guy makes on the forum (can't remember screen name but might be the OP) Not getting UCA's right now but else should I get since the car will need aligned. I'm already gonna be in a good amount with springs, rca's, regular ball joints unless I get roll center adjusters and camber bolts. Which the stuff is adding up. I assume a G 1.5 inch or a Z .5 inch drop the front camber can get into spec on factory UCA's

From a performance standpoint related to handling and not Upper Control Arms is there anything else I should get that requires alignment after installation. Like outer tie rods, or even inners. I probably will grab poly bushings for the transverse link since I'm doing ball joints. So basically I don't want to waste money right now that I don't need too but if I can get it to perform better I might as well.

 

Hey I'm planning on buying a set of BC coilovers with the true rears and was wondering if I could run the factory spring buckets instead of buying aftermarket toe arms. I wouldn't be running a huge setup in the rear, just 18x10.5 +22 rim and 265/40 tire.

 

you can, but just buy toe arms from jasonzya

http://www.350zhatchshocksandmore.com/TOE%20ARMS.htm

 

So I am able to stick with the spring buckets and not buy toe arms?

 

you can, but it looks ugly