Okay just to give you the run down, I have stoptech 13" 4 pots on the front. I bough them used, rebuilt them and have been running them for about a year now. I am planning on going too the HPT Touring club tomorrow so I put on my new rotors and pads.

Everything fit together like it normally does but I took it out on I-635 to do the Bed in and when I pulled over after about 10 stops the rotors were BRIGHT red Not sorta glowing, they were brand a cows a$$, I can see/smell them from 10' out. Impressively enough they still worked fine.

They had a little bit of drag to them at first, which they still do now but only about half as bad. However, enough that from a stop on a hill the car will not move with no pressure on the pedal.

I need thoughts quickly, if I need to change back to my old rotors and pads I need to get crackin'. I'm worried I've over heated the pads and they will not work well.

For reference: Aero Rotors, Ferrado 2500 pads

 

This was after I pulled over to a stop for 2-3 min:

 

after you run through your bed in process you're supposed to drive around without stopping while the brakes cool..

did you do that ?

 

Well that's sort of the problem. They never get to cool because they're dragging.

 

not knowing what rotors you have (except stoptechs) are they directional??? some rotors have interior vanes that need to go a certain way to cool properly, despite which direction the grooves and/or holes appear on the outside. hope everything turns out OK.

 

Nice pic

 

When was the last time that you inspected the calipers? Do both sides do this or just one? What I would check first is if the piston can freely back itself up when you apply some pressure on it with a clamp or something like that. Take the wheel off, pull the caliper off and see if the piston moves in and out. IIRC, when you're not pressing the brakes, the piston has to get 'bumped' off the rotor to allow it free movement. If it's getting stuck, it's possible that it will continue to apply pressure which will cook the brakes.

 

When I put the new pads on the pistons all backed into the caliper just fine. the caliper even fit over the rotor without much force. Just not sure what would cause them to drag now.

 

quincy, if the calipers needed any type of force to fit over the rotor then either the pistons are not fully pushed in or the pads are too thick. the calipers should fit with room to spare on both sides--sometimes up to 1mm.

i have a set of bhp track pads that are used for st40 calipers. pm me on here or the zclub if you want to use those today.

 

Race pads do that. Mine did that too. Just do another bedding process to eat away more pad.

 

So if I still have a slight dragging of the brakes will my first lapping session cure this? LOL

 

pretty much... mine were also so sensitive because the pad was a little too thick. I did one session at limerock and that went away haha.

 

If you take out the pads, check for the clearance between the rotors and the calipers. The rotor should sit spaced evenly between both sides of the caliper so that the pads will not unevenly grip the rotor. If its fitment is off...its possible that it could induce alot of drag.

 

Eh...30 min on the track tonight fixed it, lol. Thanks for the help!

PS Ferrado 2500 are not track worthy even on street tires, at least in my opinion.

 

correct your braking technique. i had the same problem running bp10 on wilwoods front, and xp10 rears. i was doing better doing hard braking before a turn instead of light braking before a turn.

 

The DS2500 compound is not advertised by Ferodo as a track compound. They are made by the racing division, but they are performance street pads. Try their DS1.11 or DS2.11 for track days.

Chris

 

I'm not a light brake'er'(is that a word?) Anyhoo, I tend to push very deep before I hit the brakes and it's usually near/at ABS. They just can't take 20min of 'all out' driving. Very good on the street so far, I like them better than the Axxis ULT they replaced.