i broke the rear shock bolts! what to do??
i am installing coilovers right and i over tightened the rear shock bolts for the upper mount and it snapped. this is the bolt that is connected to the car. i know that it is welded to the car. what to do? could it be replace?
1. Put your tools away and have the car towed to a shop that can do the job right.
But, you're not going to do that, so:
1. Buy a perforated base weld stud in a size as close to the original as possible (sorry no metric) http://www.mcmaster.com/#weld-studs/=8i3fv6.
2. Get a competent welder to weld the stud in place on your car.
3. Be more careful.
But, you're not going to do that, so:
1. Buy a perforated base weld stud in a size as close to the original as possible (sorry no metric) http://www.mcmaster.com/#weld-studs/=8i3fv6.
2. Get a competent welder to weld the stud in place on your car.
3. Be more careful.
I have often wondered that...........like, what if that happened,.........I personally think those M8 bolts are way too small......
I know the top is trapped in the rear strut bar so i can imagine that it may be some dissasembly and re weld.
but, if you have coilovers, then you can get a plate welded up there with studs attached.....may have to have something fabbed up.......a two bolt plate like the way the coilovers have a two hole plate on the top of them...get it?
-J
I know the top is trapped in the rear strut bar so i can imagine that it may be some dissasembly and re weld.
but, if you have coilovers, then you can get a plate welded up there with studs attached.....may have to have something fabbed up.......a two bolt plate like the way the coilovers have a two hole plate on the top of them...get it?
-J
1. Put your tools away and have the car towed to a shop that can do the job right.
But, you're not going to do that, so:
1. Buy a perforated base weld stud in a size as close to the original as possible (sorry no metric) http://www.mcmaster.com/#weld-studs/=8i3fv6.
2. Get a competent welder to weld the stud in place on your car.
3. Be more careful.
But, you're not going to do that, so:
1. Buy a perforated base weld stud in a size as close to the original as possible (sorry no metric) http://www.mcmaster.com/#weld-studs/=8i3fv6.
2. Get a competent welder to weld the stud in place on your car.
3. Be more careful.
oh, thats a great option! do that! Ive never seen those before..nice..
-J
^ try a local hardware store, but more of a specialty fastener store....
"All size bolt co", dallas, tx - type place...........visit, see what they might have..
-J
"All size bolt co", dallas, tx - type place...........visit, see what they might have..
-J
Last edited by JasonZ-YA; Aug 21, 2010 at 10:44 AM.

not my picture. but where would the studs be. im at work now and cant get to the car. just trying to save time by knowing where it is.
hopefully i dont have to remove any welded parts, beside the stud itself
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I had the same problem too, I had to cut off the stud with a dremel and make a small hole in the strut bar to get to the top of the bolt and grind the top down and drilled through under the wheel well through where the bolt goes through. I got some high grade universal bolt and nut from the auto part store. Bad thing about is that you have to have to hold the top of the bolt with a wrench or a really small ratchet to tighten the nut on the bottom. It took some time, but it worked for me.
Last edited by chrs870621345; Aug 21, 2010 at 09:30 PM.
I had the same problem too, I had to cut off the stud with a dremel and make a small hole in the strut bar to get to the top of the bolt and grind the top down and drilled through under the wheel well through where the bolt goes through. I got some high grade universal bolt and nut from the auto part store. Bad thing about is that you have to have to hold the top of the bolt with a wrench or a really small ratchet to tighten the nut on the bottom. It took some time, but it worked for me.
Grind away the broken off stud, drill through the metal, and install a "slotted-body metric rivet nut". No welding, no disassembly. The threaded part will be on the top of the sheet metal.

Also available from McMaster-Carr on page 3270. www.mcmaster.com
I'm pretty sure the piece of sheet metal the stud is attached to is lower in the body, and you won't see the other side of it in that picture. It's probably an empty enclosed space in the outer end of the tower bracing structure. I'd say it's about where the smaller detail below is located in the upper right of your picture.


Also available from McMaster-Carr on page 3270. www.mcmaster.com
I'm pretty sure the piece of sheet metal the stud is attached to is lower in the body, and you won't see the other side of it in that picture. It's probably an empty enclosed space in the outer end of the tower bracing structure. I'd say it's about where the smaller detail below is located in the upper right of your picture.

Last edited by winchman; Aug 22, 2010 at 06:51 AM.
Grind away the broken off stud, drill through the metal, and install a "slotted-body metric rivet nut". No welding, no disassembly. The threaded part will be on the top of the sheet metal.

Also available from McMaster-Carr on page 3270. www.mcmaster.com
I'm pretty sure the piece of sheet metal the stud is attached to is lower in the body, and you won't see the other side of it in that picture. It's probably an empty enclosed space in the outer end of the tower bracing structure. I'd say it's about where the smaller detail below is located in the upper right of your picture.



Also available from McMaster-Carr on page 3270. www.mcmaster.com
I'm pretty sure the piece of sheet metal the stud is attached to is lower in the body, and you won't see the other side of it in that picture. It's probably an empty enclosed space in the outer end of the tower bracing structure. I'd say it's about where the smaller detail below is located in the upper right of your picture.


interesting, i may have to give that a try. Would you happen to know what size it needs?
Grind away the broken off stud, drill through the metal, and install a "slotted-body metric rivet nut". No welding, no disassembly. The threaded part will be on the top of the sheet metal.

Also available from McMaster-Carr on page 3270. www.mcmaster.com
I'm pretty sure the piece of sheet metal the stud is attached to is lower in the body, and you won't see the other side of it in that picture. It's probably an empty enclosed space in the outer end of the tower bracing structure. I'd say it's about where the smaller detail below is located in the upper right of your picture.



Also available from McMaster-Carr on page 3270. www.mcmaster.com
I'm pretty sure the piece of sheet metal the stud is attached to is lower in the body, and you won't see the other side of it in that picture. It's probably an empty enclosed space in the outer end of the tower bracing structure. I'd say it's about where the smaller detail below is located in the upper right of your picture.


That's true, but I've had good luck with them. On some, I had to put flats on the outside flange so I could hold it with a bicycle wrench while tightening the bolt to get it locked in place.
Finding a competent welder to make an overhead structural weld on galvanized and painted/undercoated sheet metal is going to be difficult. And after the weld is done, you've got to protect the area so it won't corrode.
Finding a competent welder to make an overhead structural weld on galvanized and painted/undercoated sheet metal is going to be difficult. And after the weld is done, you've got to protect the area so it won't corrode.








