BTW, I prefer to stay with the OEM style of coilover just for simplicity sake. Sure the true style offer a more secure way of locking down the toe, but have you ever had a problem with the OEM style? If you need additional range of adjustment... Ok that's a great reason to change styles.

As for systems for about $2000 I'd say... look in to the HKS and Zeals, although I never seen a dyno on them I have ridden in cars with them and they seem well made. If you break the bank and go crazy look in to Penskes.

 

Thanks for all the input guys, I think I'm set on the zeals.

 

really got to set a budget to have something meaningful to choose from, and keep in mind doing a true rear coilover correctly adds to that budget. You will need to do your rear bushings to have things last. You'll toast the factory rubber bushings in very short order otherwise, particularly with track use. The least expensive true coilover Zeal starts at $2725 MSRP (Function T, steel bodies, 6 way dampening adjustable) and go up to $6820 MSRP for the Function E (30 way x 30 way adjustable). Very, very nice units, highly customizable (as you would expect), and each set comes with a full dyno sheet to show their performance.

Some have had issues with bolts 'slipping' for the toe arm, others haven't. It's really down to luck of the draw, and attention to install when you're dremeling the subframe for the extra real estate needed for the toe bolt. What most don't do is all the extra stuff needed to successfully run a true rear setup. That, and they are choosing garbage coilovers in the first place. So, the net result is something along the lines of "my car is slammed but it sounds like I'm towing coffee cans behind me when I hit a bump", and the like. If you're going to do a true setup in the back, it pays to choose something that is worth investing in. Ultimately it's 2 different ways to skin a cat

 

Yeah I get that, I'll be doing it right. My budget is very flexible, I can spend more. I'll be getting the function X or Xs.

 

Once you get into the 3k range you can start talking about true race shocks....I don't know much about the Zeals, but there are some VERY good shocks that start to show up as you get over 3,000. Any reason you settled on them?

 

A Function X or Xs are not race sets. While they certainly can be used for track days that is much different from a race worthy setup

IMHO you need to reall evaluate your uses for the car. What % street va track, what tres are being used etc.

Same goes for a full race oriented setup. These may be far less than ideal for street use.

You have to really clearly define your goals and reasons and the rest of the setup

 

for a guy who's all about function, you sure are dumb when it comes to suspension

at least your not cheap, zeal is a great choice for the track

 

I'd probably pick the KW CS's for dual purpose. I'd run a different rear spring rate, though. I was quoted as low as 2400 for them..which isn't bad. I think it was another 150-200 for the KW springs in the rear (with different rate), but you could get some Eibach ERS in whatever rate you want for 50 bucks each...they just wouldn't be the pretty yellow.

 

they aren't $2400 anymore though, that's one of KW's problems - pricing went up significantly and they aren't the out and out value they once were

 

Also remember the true race shocks found in that price range are generally not as road resilient. The seals and general construction are not made with everyday use in mind and likely will need to be rebuilt often. A "pro-sumer" product may be the best bet. I can't talk on them but another choice in that range are the Ohlins, of which I think Adam has an first-hand knowledge of.

 

Adam, I got that price about 3-4 weeks ago....has pricing spiked since then?

 

no idea what they were basing that price off, so impossible for me to say, but yes, pricing has changed this year

 

Goal is to have a track worthy suspension, not a full track only setup. I will still drive the car on the street but I can live with a stiff setup.

The rest of the setup will be SPL front and rear camber arms, SPL toe link (replacing stock spring bucket), Whitleline sways and endlinks, Energy Suspension bushings replacing all the stock rubber bushings including compression rod and subframe bushings. All the GT Spec braces and SPL solid diff mounts and Quaife diff.

I looked into the KW clubsports but had a vendor tell me they are not available in a true coilover, yet I find pictures of such a coilover. Still leaning toward Zeal but if the KW clubsports are still available in true coilover i may go that route.

 

I would stay away from the front urethane compression bushing if you're doing SPL bushings all throughout...use their compression bushings as well. A urethane compression rod bushing binds by nature and restricts movement of that arm too much. The SPL will not exhibit this

there are far better endlinks than Whitelines IMHO (we sell Whiteline too mind you, but their endlinks for this car stink)

you can honestly skip the gt spec braces as well - focus on getting the right bushings and most importantly, the right tires. For a track car, the Quaife is not an ideal choice. Works well but you will find something like the OS Giken a better choice for road race use. Again, all depends how much you value civility (Quaife) over all out performance (OS, other clutch type units). I personally run the Quaife in my own car now after years with a Cusco. Both were tremendous improvements vs stock. The Quaife is non intrusive, but relies on both tires being on the ground. It's also not adjustable for lockup as some clutch type units are. All depends on your priorities

The KW Clubsport in standard form do not come as a true rear coilover. Those may be the next tier up, which are KW Race coilovers (which are all bespoke, built and price quoted to order). Or perhaps that was a custom set done for the article/sponsored car. The Zeals come in either true or oem type for the rear

A full, true coilover setup with the deleted spring bucket, is great for a track only car. It's not at all necessary for a car that will see some track time mixed in with street time. The best part for that type of driving is a capable driver, lots of seat time, and taking notes. A stiff setup on the street does not guarantee, or even tend to promote, a good handling track car. Proper handling starts with the tires. Fast, consistent lap times start with the driver. A well prepared car with a host of nice parts is terrific, but unless it's in the hands of a capable driver, it's eye candy. Case in point, albeit anecdotal - I've run within 1 second around Lime Rock in my Z, with a relatively simple setup, compared to cars that previously ran in World Challenge. I wouldn't get hung up over true vs oem style rear in terms of it making or breaking your handling desires. It won't.

 

I was going with the urethane compression bushings to avoid the knocking problems with the SPL as they make the arm free floating (if thats the right way to put it). I know they will add effective spring rate to the front suspension but will they really be a problem?

Thanks for the input on the whiteline endlinks, i will look into other options.

I have the GT Spec braces already in my pile of to be installed parts. Might as well throw them on with everything else.

I really wanted to avoid buying the SPL spring bucket arm as that brings added cost, but I will start to consider that option with an OEM type coil.

Thank you for your input i will continue to research.