Stance GR+ Pro Coilovers - Way too Stiff
01-05-2012, 08:52 AM
#21
Looking at your replies thus far this is what I would do
Purchase 2 softer 280lbs rear springs from Stance and install them
Or
Pull the setup and resell it.
Purchase instead
Eibach Pro-S Coilover.
Bilstein Pss10 kept at full soft 100% of the time.
Tanabe Pro-5 Kept at full soft 100% of the time.
If you would like a second opion on your current setup and you can meet me in the Livermore area on a tue or wed I can meet you to do a ride a long.
Purchase 2 softer 280lbs rear springs from Stance and install them
Or
Pull the setup and resell it.
Purchase instead
Eibach Pro-S Coilover.
Bilstein Pss10 kept at full soft 100% of the time.
Tanabe Pro-5 Kept at full soft 100% of the time.
If you would like a second opion on your current setup and you can meet me in the Livermore area on a tue or wed I can meet you to do a ride a long.
01-05-2012, 09:06 AM
#22
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i have the GR+
and once i put the car on 19's....i really felt the ride difference compared to the stock 18's.
car is a stiff ride...but it is very tolerable. in the future...i do plan on switching out to the tanabe coilovers. but....this will do for now.
good luck with the coils...i'm sure the installer tweaked something incorrectly b/c mine does not ride as rough as your description.
heres a pic for reference on my ride height:
and once i put the car on 19's....i really felt the ride difference compared to the stock 18's.
car is a stiff ride...but it is very tolerable. in the future...i do plan on switching out to the tanabe coilovers. but....this will do for now.
good luck with the coils...i'm sure the installer tweaked something incorrectly b/c mine does not ride as rough as your description.
heres a pic for reference on my ride height:
01-09-2012, 01:42 PM
#24
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Sounds like a botched install. Just because the shop is experienced, doesn't mean it's done right. For example, when I worked for a coilover company we had a kid come in with 350Z coils that were installed WAY wrong. The install was done by a shop that specializes in 350Z/G35s.
01-18-2012, 11:36 PM
#25
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i have the GR+
and once i put the car on 19's....i really felt the ride difference compared to the stock 18's.
car is a stiff ride...but it is very tolerable. in the future...i do plan on switching out to the tanabe coilovers. but....this will do for now.
good luck with the coils...i'm sure the installer tweaked something incorrectly b/c mine does not ride as rough as your description.
heres a pic for reference on my ride height:
and once i put the car on 19's....i really felt the ride difference compared to the stock 18's.
car is a stiff ride...but it is very tolerable. in the future...i do plan on switching out to the tanabe coilovers. but....this will do for now.
good luck with the coils...i'm sure the installer tweaked something incorrectly b/c mine does not ride as rough as your description.
heres a pic for reference on my ride height:
01-18-2012, 11:59 PM
#27
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Pre-load on oem is nearly zero. I used a jack under the stock spring bucket to keep pressure while removing the bolts holding it in but there is little if any pressure on it when suspension is at full droop. Cutting your spring bucket or different length springs would be the only ways to completely remove all preload on oem rear.
To check your preload on coilovers, jack up car remove wheel, first see if spring is tight or if you are able to rotate spring on perches. If snug but shows signs you could turn it/turns but difficult to do so, your preload is near nothing, the way it should be.
If the spring is very tight and shows no sign of moving you may need to get out your spanner wrenches that came with the coils and loosen the spring perches. once all pressure is off and you verify spring is loose then move spring perch back up until spring is tight but not applying force. Tighten locking nut up to perch. Done.
To check your preload on coilovers, jack up car remove wheel, first see if spring is tight or if you are able to rotate spring on perches. If snug but shows signs you could turn it/turns but difficult to do so, your preload is near nothing, the way it should be.
If the spring is very tight and shows no sign of moving you may need to get out your spanner wrenches that came with the coils and loosen the spring perches. once all pressure is off and you verify spring is loose then move spring perch back up until spring is tight but not applying force. Tighten locking nut up to perch. Done.
04-10-2012, 06:46 PM
#29
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08-29-2012, 11:56 PM
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Don't want to bring back an old thread but I got my stance coilover n install them drove around and felt the rear was way too bouncy and I tried softest setting n still way too bouncy. Long story short so I called stances and told them about it and they ask if I mess with the preload I said no and than got the manger on the phone and he ask me if I remove the spring on the control arm soooo quote ( your suppose to remove the spring on the control arm in the rears because it's a true coilover system and they is no need for those spring anymore) once I took them off all I can say is OMG I love these coilovers even on the stiffest setting it's still a smoove ride.
08-30-2012, 04:31 PM
#33
Don't want to bring back an old thread but I got my stance coilover n install them drove around and felt the rear was way too bouncy and I tried softest setting n still way too bouncy. Long story short so I called stances and told them about it and they ask if I mess with the preload I said no and than got the manger on the phone and he ask me if I remove the spring on the control arm soooo quote ( your suppose to remove the spring on the control arm in the rears because it's a true coilover system and they is no need for those spring anymore) once I took them off all I can say is OMG I love these coilovers even on the stiffest setting it's still a smoove ride.
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