The bounce is eliminated when you replace the shocks (or springs). The OEM valving is terrible, and is the root of our "bounce" and tire wear problems. As for the difference these arms make, well, they make whatever difference you want them to be. Basically you can drive to the track, increase the negative camber, and then before you drive home, you can put it back to a more neutral camber (-.5-1.0 degrees).

BJ, when you change the camber on the arms, does the toe or caster need adjusting?

 

stop doing this to me.. im trying to pay off my credit card

 

I will explain and show more pictures on Monday once I get back into work.
We have been running arms all year on the race car and have NEVER ONCE HAD ANY SLIPPAGE!!!!! Our race car sees mucher higher loading forces and for longer sustained amounts of time than a street car sees.....Not one issue! Thats why endurace racing is such a great test ground for the products we use and develope.
The camber plates are held in place by using the sliding brackets that fit inside both the arm and the silder plate. They then clamp down onto the arm and the plate locking it into place using the 4 bolts and locking washers that go through them. I will post more prictures tomorrow. If you think these look nice....just wait.
Cheers
BJ

 

John,

I agree the shocks are the root of the bounce problem and I think they def contribute to the tire wear too.

 

Am I correct in thinking that increasing the negative camber with these arms keeps the tires more upright on the track?

 

These arms allow for you to be able to adjust camber on the front of the 350Z. If you lower your 350Z you will gain neg camber.....its about 1" in ride height up or down is = to 1 degree of camber -/+. Changing your camber defines how your contact patch of the tire grips the road.
These arms allow for easy and reliable camber adjustment on the front end of the 350Z or G35 and are endurance race proven.
Your camber needs change between different needs......adding more neg camber you will gain more grip during cornering......how much camber is needed for a car depends on a lot of differnet things.

 

I think I creamed my shorts when I say those images. BJ, you are going to make me a very poor man soon.

 

Stay tuned........more is coming very soon!

 

A few questions for BJ?

Will I be able to re-use my existing inner bushings? Or, will new OEM parts be required? I'm worried that removing the stock bushings will damage them.

Is the pictured "ball joint" included?

Are the arms marked for the degree of adjustment?

Can you recommend an inexpensive pyrometer?

Can you recommend an inexpensive accurate camber measuring tool?

Why is the sky blue?

 

whats the difference between the stock rubber bushings and the mono ball inserts? Ride quality and noise?

 

I will get to these once I get into work.

 

Dwnshift I'd like your take on this response by Gsedan35 below on the Koni shocks since you are actually driving on them.


"Yes the problem is the struts, too much compression dampening without suffcient rebound control. The Koni's solve the problem by trading the compression dampening level's lower to rain in the ride quality, not a compromise I'll except, I'd rather of seen them increase the rebound."

 

I believe we will be including a bushing removal tool to push out your OEM bushings.
The mono ball inserts offer smoother suspension travel as they remove the stock wind up the OEM rubber bushings have. They also are solid type insert which takes away flex the rubber bushings have. The rubber bushing move around under load, using the mono ball isnerts make sthe suspension more precise and effecient....no binding!
Noise should not be a problem.
Ball joint is included...same style used on indy cars.
The arms will have marks on them for reference points but camber changes with ride height. Therefore we cannot say that this certain mark will be 1.5 degrees of negative camber because it will change depending on what the ride height is. One of the referece points will be where the OEM spec is for a OEM ride height.

 

jmark,
The reason that Koni went softer on the compression is to add a little more grip to the rear to help inside rear wheel spin.....not the ride quallity. Yes there is a signifigant increase in rebound all around the car.

 

Thanks BJ.

 

The main issue with the control arms is chassis clearance inside the fender well. If anyone gets a chance take off a front wheel and peak at the gap that the a arm must properly fit into when under load.
The ball joint design we use takes up less space giving more clearance which allows for more positve camber adjustment.
A typical OEM style ball joint will take up more space on the end of the arm reducing the amount of + adjustabiltiy it has.
With our current arm at stock ride height we can adjust from .....
+ .5 postive camber to -3.5 negative camber.
Negative camber adjustment is not an issue.....its being able to get the most out of the postive camber.

 

If that's the case, then with cars that have a different suspension (that has lowered the car ~1" or so), that should put the camber adjustibility at -.5 to -4.5 degrees or so. If you ask me, that's perfect.

 

We would like to get it down as far as possible for the positive camber but the way the chassis is about as far as it can go out without hitting the chassis under compression.
The mono ball inserts allow for the suspension to do the work and not the binding of te OEM rubber bushings.

 

Is the increased rebound control what helps take out some of the bounce?

 

Yes...and to help fight understeer up front.