I have been doing some reading as I prepare for my bbk and hopefully the track soon. The issue of brake fluid cooking is something I am running into a lot. Now some people my say your don't need that or everyones car does that at the track....but I'm slowing building my car to be as bullet and incident proof as I can. I have attached some links that I believe I can use just curious as to peoples thoughts. Again this is me just thinking out loud and looking at options. i would rather spend a little money now then more later..

http://www.offroadproductsllc.com/in...es/Page596.htm

http://www.fourproducts.com/FSBC.htm

http://slavensracing.com/products/br...r-ktm-husaberg

 

What fluid do you use now? If you're using at least a DOT 4 and still cooking it, then I'm pretty surprised.

 

I will be running Motul DOT4 but I have seen higher end cars boil the fluids. One day I would like to be able to keep up with them.

 

You'll be fine with RBF600 your first time out.

 

It depends a lot on how hot your engine bay gets. Is your car NA, or FI? If you're really worried, you can get some heat wrap for the lines that run from the master cylinder.

 

its NA with an oil cooler, I have read that most of the high heat fluid comes directly from the caliper after each pedal release.

 

youll be fine

 

 

In my experience you'll encounter issues with your master cylinder
Before anything sim to overheating of the brake fluid...

 

Ok thank you, that is the kind of responses I was looking for. what happened to the Master, and what did you do to cause it? and how did you fix it of you did?

 

You can buy the stillen mc brace. Past that you could consider
Upgrading the entire unit. I have not ventured into that territory.

 

Problem with cooling brake fluid is that it doesn't circulate. So you end up boiling/cooking the same brake fluid in the calipers over and over. Willwood has engineered a work around but the whole set up is pretty pricy IMO.

Wilwood

 

obviously ducting the brake calipers themselves is not a bad idea, nor is
using temp tape stickers on the calipers themselves.

 

I agree with what has already been said. With no brake fluid flow I do not see how this heat exchanger will help pull heat out of the brake fluid. I am sure they drop the temp some, but I suspect the amount is negligible.

I recommend getting good pads, good fluid, and first time out you will not have a problem. I have done my first three track days on Stoptech 309 pads and Castrol SRF fluid with zero brake issues. I am sure there are much better pads, but from what I have read not much better brake fluid than the Castrol SRF. Downside is it is quite expensive but in my mind it is cheap insurance.

 

if you are going to the track do this setup for your brakes, take my advice or dont it doesn't really matter.

CARBOTECH XP10 pads
MOTUL RBF600 fluid
STOPTECH SS LINES
CENTRIC BLANKS (or stoptech slotted rotors if you wanna be ballin') lol


^^^ that will work fine.

 

Best brake fluid is castrol srf. Run this, most race car teams do. If it is good enough for them I'm sure it will work for you.

 

You'd have to be doing some serious braking to boil fluid from just caliper temps. Unless you're an experienced road course warrior, you should be fine for a while. Especially if you're going with a BBK. You'll see much better improvements from ducting than those fluid coolers.

 

Hi
I realize your post goes way back but it is worth addressing for all the other readers.
The only way you can cool brakes is by cooling the heat source. I have been in racing for over 40 years and I have seen every possible gimmick, but the only one that works, to a point, is to cool the rotors via air ducts.
PS: stay away from silicone fluid. It does not have the heat resistance that racing fluids have. All the brand name racing fluids are good. Use a new can when filling the system and seal the bottle immediately, especially if it is raining outside (inside?). Brake fluid is "hydrophobic" meaning that it absorbs water very quickly.
Jean Genibrel

 

One more thing. You will not need to cool the brakes for at least your first couple of years of racing especially if you have a high performance system from an aftermarket manufacturer.

 

The engine bay temps are pretty much negligible in comparison with the rotor temps. In heat management it is best to cool the heat source like the rotors in this case.