dragon11689

iTrader: (3)

Anyone know how to break loose the top bolt of end link attached to the stabilizer bar? I was able to remove the bottom bolt of the end link attached to the lower control arm. It really tight up top and a PITA to get leverage enough to break it loose. Any suggestions?

terrasmak

iTrader: (8)

6 point socket on a 1/2 inch drive ratchet. Get a quality socket or you will round the nut off.

dragon11689

iTrader: (3)

I'm using a 3/8 inch ratchet because the 1/2 inch ratchet head wont fit in between the small space between top nut of endlink and bodyframe. It would be nice to be able to fit the 1/2 inch though. I need a lengthier ratchet to gain more leverage. Also, it is a B*TCH to get that nut off. I understand the whole thing about holding the other side with a wrench so it doesn't keep swiveling, but the fugger won't even swivel. Nothing, Nada, Zilch. I sprayed the living cr@p out of the nut with wd40 and still wouldn't budge. Is there something I am missing here with the top nut? The bottom nut was not that much of a pain to get out.

Russ@Z1

iTrader: (65)

Sounds like you've tried just about everything except heating it up.


I had a rear one years ago that was on so tight from the factory that I had to cut it off the end link.

dragon11689

iTrader: (3)

Yeah I fiddled with it for quite some time. I'm hoping I don't have to cut it. Only as a last resort. I'm hoping maybe someone might have a suggestion that has had the experience already. Thanks for the suggestions so far guys!

SirSpeedyZ

iTrader: (10)

I stripped mine trying to take it off, had to drill it out

Why are you removing the endlink anyway? I upgraded mine and still get clunking

iideadeyeii

iTrader: (6)

When I installed new endlinks I just unbolted the bar from the car(installed new bushings also) and was able to get an impact wrench in there. Are we talking about the front sway bar?

dragon11689

iTrader: (3)

My endlinks swivel way too freely around the joint. This usually means its worn out. I also get suspension noise. Once you hit close to 100k miles, certain things need replacing. I've taken care of my car pretty well though so not many things going wrong with it. Just normal wear and tear. How the heck were you able to fit a drill in there?

dragon11689

iTrader: (3)

Yeah, the front sway bar. How are you guys getting drills and impact wrenches in that tiny area?

By the way, I wasn't able to get any information on removal of endlinks from the repair manual. Was anyone able to find that information in the repair manual?

SirSpeedyZ

iTrader: (10)

I stripped the bolt holding it on, I drilled the bolt off
I had the car on a ramp

Wasn't that hard to get to

vq35deZ

had the same problem with the rear passenger side endlink. couldnt break the top bolt free, but was able to remove the whole bracket the endlink was connected to..i havent checked how the front sway is mounted though

dragon11689

iTrader: (3)

Oh, ok..so you guys are removing the entire sway bar from under and then removing the endlinks. I can see how that works out. Because personally, I don't see how you can fit an impact wrench on top bolt facing the center of the car through this tight area:

ian99rt

iTrader: (12)

PB blaster is your friend. Works quite a bit better at penetrating and breaking loose rusted hardware. I've personally never had to take a torch to a stuck fastner thanks to the blaster.

Other them that, cut the thing off with a mini hack saw and get some adjustable Endlinks for your aftermarket sways.

dragon11689

iTrader: (3)

Awesome, I will try the pb blaster. I'll keep you guys updated.

dragon11689

iTrader: (3)

The particular nut had to be cut out...no other way to remove it. Thanks for all the help guys!