Whats the long pipe for?

 

Torque

 

Nice pics AARON...
I think I've seen some grease on inside of lips occasionally, so I'll have to take a closer glance at mine in the near future.

 

Youll want to use some moly grease on the threads of the big C-clamp...shouldn't have to grease anything else.

 

Me??
I'm talking about the boots being torn, releasing grease on my wheel

 

Oh sorry I thought you meant grease the lip of the new balljoint when installing...

 

Yeah mine are spewing everywhere as well, seems like they still have grease in them so Im not going to replace them yet

 

I am trying to get that dam top bolt off it is a pain in the *** can't seem to get it. Any ideas??

 

You mean the nut holding the arm to the joint? Jack up the spindle, it will put pressure on the joint and prevent it from spinning.

 

I used this walk through to change my ball joints today. I installed duralast ball joints (pn# BJL148) on my 03. I'm very happy with them so far.

Thanks for the walk through it was a great help!

 

Dead thread revivle. How on earth did you guys get the seat off the old ball joint... Didn't know the mevotech one needed it (I know stupid mistake) till I installed it and have been trying to beat my old one out for the past 2 hours. If I had known concept z had them before would have gotten those. They have seats
P.S. harbor freight sets worn great for getting ball joints out. You need both ball joint sets though. I'm going to return them since well I'll never need them again



This f@#$#&&@$@%@%$+&@'%$( seat...





Need to press the seat onto this one

 

The aluminum cone is what I believe your talking about, hit it with a propane torch and it falls off

 

Damn yeah that is exactly what I was talking about. Lol. I just always saw it referred to as a seat. Thanks!

 

[QUOTE=350Z Project X;10642081]Dead thread revivle. How on earth did you guys get the seat off the old ball joint... Didn't know the mevotech one needed it (I know stupid mistake) till I installed it and have been trying to beat my old one out for the past 2 hours. If I had known concept z had them before would have gotten those. They have seats
P.S. harbor freight sets worn great for getting ball joints out. You need both ball joint sets though. I'm going to return them since well I'll never need them again

Which set did you get from Harbor Freight, do you have the part number for that ball joint removal tool?

 

I didn't have to use a torch or any prying to remove the cylindrical cones off my ball joints. I simply used a ball joint separator tool as pictured below. It works effortlessly to remove the cylindrical cone off an old ball joint, even though it was probably not designed for it.

 

has anyone tried the spd ball joints? im looking to order a set. looks like it also comes with the cone.

https://conceptzperformance.com/Cart...n.php?II=12276

 

Since no one could confirm. I went ahead and purchased them anyways. They do come with the cone.

 

What Len said. At the dealership, I remove the knuckle from the car. So much easier. Press out the old, heat the cone until it falls off, press new ball joint in, slide on cone, re-install on car. Takes about 30 minutes per side.

 

Terrible advice.

Where did you get your automotive training?

When I was trained by the factory team in Japan, we were taught to never torch heat suspension components you will be reusing.

As I have said above, with a common tool found in shops or garages, the cone will come off very easily.

 

You're not heating it hot enough to do any damage. The heat coming off your brakes makes that cone hotter than the (propane, not acetylene) torch.

It's got nothing to do with automotive training, it's basic metallurgy which I happen to know a bit about as a welder.

Your "factory team training" must not have covered much chemistry or metallurgy. Sounds like they just gave you basic "rule of thumb" advice.