BC True Coilovers Rant
#41
Sleeps in 350Z
iTrader: (5)
Actually I am not all about slamming/hellaflush yo! Everyone has there on taste/opinions though. I wanted minimal wheel/fender gap but still maintaining proper toe and camber setting, hence why I purchased all the supporting mods, front UCA's, Rear camber arms, rear toe arms, and lockout bolts/washers. I had BC coilovers on my 465 awhp evo 10 that I beat the crap of every day, and every day the coilovers made the car handle like a dream!
Lastly when the the spring is moved from the OEM position to the true style position my 8k spring will actually act like a 4k OEM positioned spring! Couldn't find the thread about this so if someone has the link please post it up! Thanks for your inputs YO!
Lastly when the the spring is moved from the OEM position to the true style position my 8k spring will actually act like a 4k OEM positioned spring! Couldn't find the thread about this so if someone has the link please post it up! Thanks for your inputs YO!
edit: additionally... it's disappointing that you still haven't had this clarified by BC.
Last edited by AllstarE4; 05-10-2012 at 12:23 PM.
#43
Super Moderator
MY350Z.COM
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Running a true coilover in the rear you need a 4k or 5k spring , if you want to run the 8k rear, i suggest getting the proper matching front spring 16k, I do have a set of them you can try out.
With a 16k front and 8k rear you will need helper springs ( messed up earlier , and put tender)
2 things can be done with the adjustable body shock when running the spring in the OEM location. You can set the down travel at a point you know the spring has tension at full droop or you can set the uptravel to maximize the amount of suspension travel you have.
With a 16k front and 8k rear you will need helper springs ( messed up earlier , and put tender)
Are you saying the ride height is still adjusted at the shock with an OEM set up? Uh..I don't think so.
There is no reason to have a threaded shock with OEM set up (height adjusted at the perch)..right?
I was saying..if he got a threaded shock it must be a *true coil over*..which it apparently is..as shown in the pics. So, he couldn't have screwed up by not putting the spring on the perch...as you have suggested.
There is no reason to have a threaded shock with OEM set up (height adjusted at the perch)..right?
I was saying..if he got a threaded shock it must be a *true coil over*..which it apparently is..as shown in the pics. So, he couldn't have screwed up by not putting the spring on the perch...as you have suggested.
Last edited by terrasmak; 05-10-2012 at 12:45 PM.
#44
New Member
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if you are maxed out at the lower cup/mount, then you can use the spring seat to get lower at the cost of compression travel. looks like there's plenty of adjustment left with the spring seat with your current springs, so getting shorter springs with the same spring rate will just be a waste of money. if anything get rear springs with the appropriate spring rates.
#45
Ok finally got ahold of Sam at BC. Looks like with their true style this is as low as I can go, and yes the springs I have are the shorter ones already, not that that would make a difference. Sam has sent me out replacement rear struts/dampers, and they're 40mm shorter, which means I will be able to close the 1 1/4 gap between my rear fender. He assured me that this will have no effect on performance. Not sure why these aren't the standards for them but o-well.
terrasmak we should get together once I get this setup done and compare between this setup 10/8 k and with your 16k on my fronts, I would appreciate this! Just out of curiosity are you the guy I met at one of the AMU supports sections on base? I believe you had a silver z on RPF's?
terrasmak we should get together once I get this setup done and compare between this setup 10/8 k and with your 16k on my fronts, I would appreciate this! Just out of curiosity are you the guy I met at one of the AMU supports sections on base? I believe you had a silver z on RPF's?
#46
Originally Posted by TeegsMR
Lastly when the the spring is moved from the OEM position to the true style position my 8k spring will actually act like a 4k OEM positioned spring!
Apparently my memory is crap, thought I had read this some where.... if someone can explain this please do so as I would like to know?
Lastly when the the spring is moved from the OEM position to the true style position my 8k spring will actually act like a 4k OEM positioned spring!
Apparently my memory is crap, thought I had read this some where.... if someone can explain this please do so as I would like to know?
#49
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Originally Posted by TeegsMR
Lastly when the the spring is moved from the OEM position to the true style position my 8k spring will actually act like a 4k OEM positioned spring!
Apparently my memory is crap, thought I had read this some where.... if someone can explain this please do so as I would like to know?
Lastly when the the spring is moved from the OEM position to the true style position my 8k spring will actually act like a 4k OEM positioned spring!
Apparently my memory is crap, thought I had read this some where.... if someone can explain this please do so as I would like to know?
Motion ratio is the fancy term for leverage.
#50
It is called motion ratio, OEM location .649 and as a true coilover is .97 , what that means is take your spring rate 480 pounds (8k) as a true coilover 97% of the spring rate is the wheel rate , or 65% of the spring rate becomes wheel rate in OEM location.
Motion ratio is the fancy term for leverage.
Motion ratio is the fancy term for leverage.
#51
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#52
Well from what I understand I can purchase swift springs in various rates and put them on...now the question is how to determine if the shocks/dampers are dampened correctly for these springs...hmmm wishing now I would have just paid a bit more for something I would not have to keep throwing parts at.
#53
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Well from what I understand I can purchase swift springs in various rates and put them on...now the question is how to determine if the shocks/dampers are dampened correctly for these springs...hmmm wishing now I would have just paid a bit more for something I would not have to keep throwing parts at.
#55
New Member
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560/448 setup with oem rear spring location
Same setup, but mathed out to show how much spring actually makes it to the wheel to perform work 265/189 (wheel rate)
Now move the same 448lbs rear spring out to the rear damper that sits almost directly above the hub and you end up with following front and rear wheel rate 265/422
^ it would take a 1002lbs spring in the oem rear location to leverage the same 422lbs at the wheel. Oh yeah, someone doesn't know what they are doing.
Curious, who sold the setup to you?
A 4kg spring on the rear dampers would mean a 265/211 setup
Same setup, but mathed out to show how much spring actually makes it to the wheel to perform work 265/189 (wheel rate)
Now move the same 448lbs rear spring out to the rear damper that sits almost directly above the hub and you end up with following front and rear wheel rate 265/422
^ it would take a 1002lbs spring in the oem rear location to leverage the same 422lbs at the wheel. Oh yeah, someone doesn't know what they are doing.
Curious, who sold the setup to you?
A 4kg spring on the rear dampers would mean a 265/211 setup
#56
Sleeps in 350Z
iTrader: (5)
After the cost of the BC coilovers and swift springs you could have purchased a set of KW V2s and been done and happy. Did BC charge you for the replacement dapmers (I'm assuming so)? Hope everything works out for you though. This is why I still haven't purchased a suspension setup (lots of reading and learning).
#58
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#59
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Originally Posted by terrasmak
Running a true coilover in the rear you need a 4k or 5k spring , if you want to run the 8k rear, i suggest getting the proper matching front spring 16k, I do have a set of them you can try out.
Originally Posted by Gsedan35
A 4kg spring on the rear dampers would mean a 265/211 setup
#60
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10K front and 4k rear would be it. Better yet , 8k rear in OEM position would be best. Only reason I have true coil over rear is SPL spring bucket was back ordered for 4 months when I needed it. Even better is look into some quality coilovers starting at a KW V2
Last edited by terrasmak; 05-13-2012 at 04:15 PM.