TurTLe

iTrader: (7)

From reading the suspension 101 thread.

I gather -1.5 camber all around would be the target. What about toe and caster?

I know toe kills tires the quickest. So would you target 0 toe all around or a little toe in so the car will center itself some better.



I have coils and rear toe/camber arms. Going to get from camber arms as well. So i figure i'll just tell the tech what i want the numbers to be VS him doing w/e he wants to get it in the "green"

terrasmak

iTrader: (8)

Lots of factors , but as a complete DD -1 front and -1.5 rear would be fine , for better handling -1.5 all around would be fine. If you don't care about performance you can pull as much neg camber out as you can (just go to crappy factory specs)

Zhinobi

Just had an alignment over the weekend. Is this right? Sorry Turtle not trying to thread jack you. I need help too lol



sitting how it is right now.

Emski

I am trying to learn too. Isn't that too much negative camber for putting the power down?

ronn1

iTrader: (1)

I'd say you need some help alright...
that massive rear camber will wear out those tires in 5k miles.
I assume you don't have rear camber kit?

Zhinobi

I do..I got spc kits.

AllstarE4

iTrader: (5)

If you have the SPC camber arms then you should have been in spec. I would go back to the alignment shop and have them fix it. They either don't know how to adjust aftermarket camber arms or they just didn't want to.

Judging by the rear numbers all they did was adjust the eccentric toe bolt and didn't touch the SPC arms.

Zhinobi

what is the correct adjustment they should have done for rear? I know my front is ok right? the guy who was doing it told me 350z doesn't have caster so no change in that

davidv

iTrader: (2)

There is none. There is good for street handling and good for tire life but there is no ideal for both.

davidv

iTrader: (2)

Its neither right or wrong it is what is is. I would run -3.7 to -4.9 camber in the rear for autocross. On the street? No.

davidv

iTrader: (2)

On the street I would run -1.0 to -2.0 degrees rear camber. A conservative driver is NOT taking 90 degree turns at 40 MPH. The advantage of -3.0 to -4.0 degrees would be what?

davidv

iTrader: (2)

We have got to get you guys to autocross or HPDE so you can see and experience a set-up for competition.

And now a word from the guy who has been following me for years. I keep telling him no you cannot touch my pee pee but he just doesn't pay attention.

terrasmak

iTrader: (8)

You still run half of that for autocross. Normal autocross setup NA would be -1.5 to -2.5 , in the rear.

Gsedan35

iTrader: (10)

IMO the ideal DD alignment spec is.

Front camber
-1.5
^Why? Best blend of front grip vs tire wear and braking traction

Front toe in
.5mm per side
^Why? Helps reduce inside tire wear and improves overall stability. While toe out improves responce especially on turn in it comes with the cost of greater inside tire wear and the car becomes somewhat flinty or darty at freeway speeds.

Front caster
If you have aftermarket adjustable front camber arms you also might be able to adjust front caster. I'm not a fan of the high oem caster settings, but unless your out of spec its likely not worth the hassle to adjust. For most of us the the machine says you have is just a numbet you can do nothing about.

Rear camber
-1.0
^Why? Traction. Coming out or corners and braking. Cannot justify increased inside tire wear with any preceived increase in cornering grip.

Rear toe in
1mm per side
^Why? Stability Never ever run it at zero or toe out in the rear. Too many issues related to oem bushing deflection and the rear suspension design.

Gsedan35

iTrader: (10)

Any discussion on none DD alignment settings such as autocross or road racing is pointless. The correct setting is one you come up with on your own using a tire pyrometer. Because of setup differances in hardware and tires another guys settings likely won't give you the lowest possible times.

TurTLe

iTrader: (7)

^ thanks for that. Good info to write down and talk to the tech about.


I have a sedan as well. My wheels are 18x8.5 +33 265/40 in the rear.

I just got the alignment but i'm having rubbing problems.

I'm about 2 inchs lowered on my coils with SPC rear camber/toe.

I dont have front cambers so they are respectively at ...

Front Camber
L -2.3 and R -2.7
Front Caster
L -7.4 and R -6.8
Front Toe
L .06 and R .05

Rear Camber
L -1.5 and R -1.2
Rear Toe
L .11 and R .10


I dont track or anything, I'm rubbing on the R side on hard turns or with people in it. NOTHING wrong with L side. I'm going to get the fenders slightly rolled but thats down the road when i get my hands on a roller. I'm thinking of going back and getting my rear RIGHT side -1.5 or asking for a little more on BOTH sides. Maybe -1.7 or even -2.0. I'm pretty happy overall with the way the car is tracking but the rear rubbing is like I saw the damage to the tire's sidewall. I'm not pleased at all.

The toe should be fine correct, no need to be **** about getting ZERO TOE front and rear right?

My main question now is how much is -.1 of camber equal to ?

davidv

iTrader: (2)

Correct. Zero toe is NOT an objective for a sports car. Toe assists turn in or How does the front end react when you turn the steering wheel? Toe is a good thing.