I drive an 06 Infiniti G35 coupe and I am on BC racing coilovers with SPC rear camber kit w/ toe bolt. 20x8.5 20x10.5(not sure on the offsets). Toe bolt holes were elongated. The numbers on the alignment sheet are o.k. i guess. But the thing is, my wheels still look like they have hella negative camber. I want them to look like they have 0 degrees of camber.







So what could the problem be here?

 

So have the camber adjusted all the way out to 0 if there is enough adjustment.

Your car will drive funny with no camber in the rear though.

Add spacers?

 

Your alignment tech is an idiot , kinda like the last on that touched my car

 

I know I need to have some camber but I want it to the point where it has the very least amount of camber but still in spec. I was going to add spacers after this alignment deal was sorted out correctly.

Lol could be true. I don't understand how it would be that difficult to adjust with all the kits on.

 

I would be willing to bet the camber is spot on and the body lines are playing tricks with your eyes. That body line isn't perpendicular with the ground and it makes it look like there's camber even if there isn't any. But that's only if the top of the wheel is sunk in like yours. Get some spacers and it'll look a lot better.

 

Even eyeing it straight on, it looks pretty tilted. I was just seeing if the alignment was alright before making the purchase for spacers.



I want it to look straight like this.

 

His rears clearly have camber. Look at his rears. Now look at his fronts. Now look at his rears. They look like they have camber. Only difference is the top of his wheel isn't sunken into his wheel well.

What made you go with 20" wheels, if you don't mind me asking?

 

That rear camber your worried about isnt that bad off. it could be a hair better but OEM camber is like 1.4-1.7 degrees negative. as you can see one is in green with -1,6 and the -2.1 is red. not much of a difference there. yes you still have camber but even at stock height independent rear suspension cars have camber. bring it back and see if he can get that one side down to -1.8 or somthing a hair better. BUT keep in mind they can make alignments rear whatever they want. so even if that sheet lights up all green it could still be off so dont be angry or mean with them or youll just end up with a green sheet and no changes lol. ALSO id worry about that front camber... that is suppose to be close to 0 degree.... get you some from control arms... anything but ichiba btw

 

Actually the front right has more camber than both rear wheels going by the sheet... DONT go by the looks. the sunken in wheel and rolled fenders are playing tricks with you... look at the numbers. ALSO alot of places do free alignment CHECKS where theyll give you print outs like shown so it wouldnt hurt to get numerous free print outs to make sure that shop doesnt screw u

 

Please don't try to help

 

So should be safe to get spacers now with the alignment being like this? Had 25mm but they were way to aggressive. 10mm? 15mm?

Its a "G" thang. Form > Function for me.

 

Sounds like a good idea. Now I just gotta find these places.

 

haha ok bro... im actually a service/collision technician and i didnt see you throwing around any info... im trying to help out the OP. but anyways GL with your alignment OP!

 

Thanks for the help!

 

I wasn't even talking about his G35... Not to mention this whole thread is about looks.

 

It's frustrating to see so much bad advice on this forum. Go back and ask the tech to get your rear camber correct and reduce the toe. It appears as though he saw that the right rear was out of spec and adjusted it and ignored the left rear.

You're going to need adjustable arms for the front unless you want to wear out your tires sooner than necessary. Granted, you can run on those numbers for quite some time, but it's best if they match or are much closer than they are now.

 

So his sheet says w/19 inch wheel. Shouldn't it say w/20 in if he's got 20's?

 

First as mentioned you need a set of front camber arms. -2 up front isn't bad, but unless you track your car you probably want to dial it back to -1.5 or less for tire wear reasons. Camber is needed for handling, even for street driving, you do not want 0 camber, front or rear.
Next the rear, the alignment tech was lazy as hell. He probably didn't use both adjusters. Both have to be used in the rear to align the car, you really can't adjust one without the other, they both effect each other.
With being as low as you are , i would bet a 1.5 to 1.75 inch drop, you may not be able to get to lower camber specs but you can surely get it a lot better than it is now. The car in the pic you posted is probably sitting at -1.5 rear camber and should be easily obtainable with the hardware you have.
Once you get the alignmment into the proper spec you want, then measure and buy the spacers you need.

Last thing edit, you Caster is really high, great for a track car but...... your compression arm bushings are probably wasted. With the drop you have , they will only get worse, and really quick. Replace them before your next alignment.

 

There may not be an option for that, the computer is designed around factory wheel specs, and there were no factory 20" wheel options. Those specs are probably for a GT/Nismo.


OP, the minimum in the range (shown on your sheet) is -.8 on each side in the rear. You might have to find someone who actually cares about cars and knows what they are doing, but you will have to ask them to actually take thier time and adjust it all the way to the minimum spec or slightly below. You could go down to say -.5 in the rear, but I wouldn't trust the drivability if you went any closer to zero.

I've done alignments like this on cars personally, it is very time consuming to adjust all the aftermarket parts as on these cars, each item will slightly affect the other ones, just the design of the suspension. I suggest you find a performance shop that can do it, or an actual gearhead mechanic that will understand what you want and why, and what it takes to get it there.

I'd also suggest tipping that guy at least $20 as the normal pay for an alignment tech will get you the normal results you got, just a quick adjustment and back out. Most techs make no more than $15-20 on an alignment and it's still considered one of the better paying jobs you can get in a shop. If the tech is paid on flat rate, it's not in his best interest to spend all day working on one car for $20.

 

Yeah seemed like the last tech i got an alignment from didn't take too much time on my car. I have an appointment tomorrow with a reputable alignment shop so these guys should get it to where I want it.

Bushings? Hope not...