I am thinking about lowering springs (probably Tein S Tech), kinetix front upper camber arms, kinetix or eibach rear lower camber arms and some sort of rear toe solution.

I don't want SPC adjustable toe bolts because of the expense of international shipping and exchange rates for a pair of bolts and I don't like their design, potential to slip etc.

Instead of eccentric bolts, could I make a dozen sets of square lock out washers with holes drilled at different locations for the bolt? Say perhaps drilling the holes 1mm closer to the edge on each successive pair and then using the pair that brings the toe closest to alignment?

I would probably use 3mm thick aluminium or stainless steel for the washers. The advantages would be absolutely zero ability to slip, cheap and easy (for me anyway) to have made, piece of mind. It would obviously still require the slots be elongated on the frame. I can draw a picture if need be.

Could this approach work for the stock camber arm as well? or does this require too much adjustment when lowered?

 

Hate to tell you but you may have to drill a lot of sets before you get the right combo, that also means a lot of time on the alignment rack. When you order your parts, just include a set of toe bolts.

 

Your right, it might take quite a few goes to get it right but once its done, its done. How much adjustment do you think would be necessary, every 1.0mm? 0.5mm? It might take a couple of goes on the rack. Perhaps to just estimate the approximate measurement first and then to get a range to try.

I guess the other option is to get the toe bolts, get the alignment, measure exactly where the holes would need to be drilled and then make one set only.

 

0.25mm increments and set camber to where toe will be good. I thought about this myself.

 

Do you even need aftermarket toe bolts for the mild drop of springs?

 

Prob not, but you should order a set with the rest of your parts just in case.

 

I dropped the rear about 25mm a while ago and had the same thoughts as you about making up a set of square washers for a more positive rear camber or toe adjustment setting solution.

Of course in the mean time I'm still using the factory eccentric bolts and I have to say in my case they have never slipped so that is good. I am pretty much at the max I can get with the eccentric bolts on the camber adjustment.

With the rear drop I got a noticeable ammount of rear toe in as well, but was able to correct with the eccentric bolts on the spring bucket.

My thought with square washers (~34mm) was to drill the bolt hole off centre both ways to give four different settings off the one set of washers.

In my case the centre of the bolt is about 15mm from one side so if the washer was fliped I could also set to 19mm. 15 + 19 = 34.

If the hole was 15mm from one side, 19 from the opposite, and also at 90° to this say 16mm and therefore 18mm you end up with 4 possible positions.

17 17
16 18
15 19
14 20
13 21
12 22

are all options. Just guess as best you can which combo is right for you and make your sets of washers accordingly.

tw2 Where abouts in NZ are you. North Island? Have you seen zclub.org.nz ?
We have a good little track day on the club track at Taupo in February.

 

Also

If you are getting aftermarket upper control arms (I have the Kinetix ones too) you'll most likely need a cert - I did. About $500NZ. If this works out to be the case do all your mods at once eg. brake lines, lowered suspension etc and they will certify everything for the one fee.

 

Hey thanks for the info, no I didn't know about the club. I'm in Hamilton. I was hoping to avoid a cert- the kinetix don't even look adjustable except to a fairly trained eye. What springs did you go with? Is there a local source for kinetix or from the US like every other car part I have ever bought? I see the "hardrace" ones on trademe which look like terrible knock-off's.

Kind of dumb to think you need a cert just because you want a safe alignment, especially considering all the ridiculous stuff you can do without a cert. They are definitely scared of the word adjustable. I have done heaps of stuff to previous cars, the suspension is about all I want to touch with this one.

Maybe I will look into drilling some holes starting at 14mm based on your aprrox 15mm and then every mm past that and see if that works. The only problem would be if it needs finer adjustment than every mm since you will end up making thousands of them.

 

I'm in Hamilton too. Might see you round. Carbon Silver. I don't have it out much. Too many cars. It can sit in the garage weeks at a time sometimes.

I've got coilovers (hence the cert) and got the UCAs in from the US. There is someone here in Hamilton putting an order through to z1motorsport on Wednesday morning if you are interested in getting them from there. Might get reduced shipping costs as part of a group buy. Take a look at 300zx.co.nz

When you get your height sorted just try the oem adjustment at the back if possible and then make square lockout washers using those measurements. Yea I'm thinking whole mm will be too crude.