tw2

I have read pages of threads including the suspension 101 sticky. I want front upper control arms for when I lower the car approx 1". It is a daily driver, I do not need easy adjustability for track use etc. My problem is that I want a set that do not make any noise or need maintenance (oiling/lube/lithium/teflon spraying).

Are there UCA's that do not make noise or require lubing?

I have considered SPL V3- I would get these except the quick preset adjustability and altering castor is wasted on me and a waste of extra money for features I don't need. If they are the only quiet option I will get them.

Kinetix seems generally regarded as a good economical option ie good value for money, however I don't feel like spraying the ball joint with lithium and I don't have a grease gun- this sounds more like owning a tractor.

Locally I can get "hardrace" arms which look identical in every way to Megan arms. So I guess the question would be are Megan UCA's any good? I know everyone says Megan sucks but this is a fairly simple part, it has to bolt on correctly, not hit anything and last.

All other brands appear to me to be more expensive for no obvious gains or substandard products with enough failures to suggest the failure rate might be significant.

terrasmak

iTrader: (8)

Megan arms are fine, I ran a set for over 4 years. Really there is no need for front camber arms with a mild drop, unless you need to add more camber for track use.

Voboy

iTrader: (58)

run oem.

tw2

I am considering the tein S-tech springs but I would like to keep options open, I haven't made a final decision on the springs and the tanabe's give a nice drop. I would also like to get to the nominal oem alignment specs. I am a big fan of even tire wear.

Did the megans make any noise? Obviously no banging on anything since you had them for so long and I presume no slipping either?

KingBaby

iTrader: (3)

Run OEM until you lower it more than 2 inches. Even then the OEM arms will still hold camber from becoming ridiculous!

Noise comes from road conditions i.e. hitting potholes

terrasmak

iTrader: (8)

You will need a rear camber kit, front you will be sitting at around -1.5 to -1.8, and stock specs is a max of -1.1 , the extra bit of camber will not hurt much, and it you take corners it will improve tread life.

The arms held up great and will soon be on a freinds car to be abused again.

Noise typically comes from the people who run inproperly set up coilovers. Usually its the arm bottoming out well before the bump stop ingages.

KingBaby

iTrader: (3)

+1

Last part of previous post!

03threefiftyz

iTrader: (25)

I still have OEM on the race car...it is probably 1.3" or so below factory. With offset bushings (add camber) I am at -2.5 camber. Without the bushings it is in the -1.6-1.7 range.

Voboy

iTrader: (58)

Most aftermarket arms are used for adding negative camber.... hence stick with oem.

VMRWheels

OEM.

2004Black350z

iTrader: (37)

Free post to say OEM? I think so

tw2

Thanks for the advice, OEM it is, free as well! I presume tire wear is pretty good with approx -1.5 negative camber? You guys don't fry the inside edge before the rest of the tire is done?

I have decided on S-tech's, no need to go crazy. Next decision is the rear arms, SPL look nice but I'm not sure I really need rod ends on a daily driver. The only other one would be the eibach design which looks decent. I don't like the look of many of the other offerings.

NoQuestionZ

iTrader: (93)

I have kinetix front and rear camber gear and love them. I daily my Z as well and a Lil maintenance goes a long way. If you don't want to have squeaks/rattles, best get outta the Z now and for sure don't lower it. I have GF210s and the drop is perfect for me. Its subtle, but with the right offset wheels looks like I'm dropped a lot more. (+17/18 Volk GT-S with255/35/19 & 285/35/19)
A lot of people say OEM, and that's fine, but if you get a little low, you're going to want more than the S Techs give you. And if u ever do get lucky enough to track, you can dial extra camber. Plus that camera is easily adjusted and can NEVER slip.

I prefer a little bit of maintenance on mine because I was getting a knock when I backed out my garage and turned left, I assumed it was my A arms or my endlinks so I planned to soften my sway bar setting and found out the endlink bolt was relatively loose. While the car was up, I greased the a arms and a grease gun w/grease at autozone is only $30 and super easy to do.

Now to track down rear hatch/strut squeak

Sorry for the long read

tw2

Thanks for the help. I have always had sports cars, rattles and other noises are nothing new. The way some posts described it the noises from some of the camber arms were very loud and hard to live with.

Do you have many problems with driveways/road humps with the 210's?

NoQuestionZ

iTrader: (93)

I love the GF210s. No real issues especially with OEM bumper. I have the INGS N spec kit now so that can get a Lil tricky. But bang for Buck gfs are top notch, especially when ya get them for a steal like I did. Good luck!

Voboy

iTrader: (58)

don't buy tanabe springs if you're planning to use oem shocks. the ride will be bouncy. (personal experience)

terrasmak

iTrader: (8)

All drop springs will wear out OEM shocks quickly, also a shock only has a servicable life of around 60k miles when coupled with the proper spring.

Voboy

iTrader: (58)

the ride was not good the second they were on oem shocks though. i'd go with tein s-techs or hotchkis.

HRpowered

I agree with the folks above I've got the gf210s and I'm looking at stance coils now. I haven't even been 15k and it feels like all four struts are blown. They drop great perfect height for me but without well paired shocks (Wich will cost u as much as coils by the time you are done and you will probably want different springs anyways with good shocks) you will end up worse in the long run plus when I bought them I didn't realize how bad the spring rates were compared to others.