Sways dont stiffen up a chassis. and if your worried about looks while your drifitng, you arent doing it right.

 

stock works great, but the tires are really narrow for the weight of the car and wear out quickly. Going with 17's as I mention on wider wheels let you run a tire that will take abuse and tires run $75 to $100 a tire cheaper. A lot more than a week of Starbucks.

The only prob with 17's is that not everyone makes a 275/40-17 anymore. NT01 is available in that size, great tire

 

You're right. Keeping a car from rolling in transitions does not stiffen it. And you're right on worrying about looks while engaging in a sport that was largely based on visual appeal for the last 3 decades. Please, tell me more of your insight and wisdom.

That said, I slammed my car because I liked the way a slammed car looks. I ALSO drift and my slammed car looks better drifting than the stock equivalent. Don't read to much into it to prove an internet point chief.

 

So you feel it is fine and completely safe to ride in the rain on some R888s or NT05s, NT01s or something similar?

So, every track tire is recommended for all weather use?

That was my point...

 

I race in the rain on A6's....

Little or no standing water=slicks. I would have no issue racing in the rain on full tread R888's or NT01's.

 

Ooooooo K. Then i stand corrected. Just basing this off the manf site that states "dry track / street". "Tire specified is NOT all season".

 

it's the internet pigpen. You should know by now, for every thing that doesn't happen in real life, there's somebody that does it on the internet seemingly only to conveniently disprove your point. Like, if I said you could roll a 350Z down a hill and slide it on it's roof into a parking lot and the car would look damaged afterwards, someone will pop up who rolled their car down a hill and slid it into a parking lot on its roof and the paint looked brand new. LOL.

 

Damn these interwebs!

 

Since when did the OP ask or care about drifting? Also, in the past 5 years drift cars have been moving away from looks to functional. Any FD car in the top 8, possibly top 16 has a proper roadrace suspension with roadrace style suspension travel. They did this to make the cars easier to control and bring the sport to the next level. Only the small time chumps still go off the slammed to the ground to slide crap.

 

I went out in a S2000 on NT01 before in rain, it wasn't too bad.

275 NT01 on 9" wheel? seems too big for the wheel?

 

I'd rather have 245 or 255's on a 9" wheel. 275's for 10+" width.

 

I have a question that might be relevant to OP. Would you guys run a 255 or even 265 on factory front 18x8 wheels?

 

255 max , but would rather buy new wheels.

 

Wellllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllll , given that I am not nor do I plan to be sponsored and I am at a grassroots level and drift at MAYBE half the speed of a pro level and probably 20-40mph slower than that of a pro-am, I would be a "small time chump". That said, roadrace suspension is because power and speed has increased GREATLY (even past D1) and proper suspension setup is GENERALLY needed to control an 800hp car that weighs 3400lbs traveling 100+mph sideways with limited traction. Howwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwever, if you look at D1 (gotta tie it all back in), cars are still slammed. Even in Europe and New Zealand, COMPETITION cars are still slammed. Why, you may ask? Well, most of the pro cars in these areas are not backed by manufacturers. Many have tire sponsors (obviously) and shop sponsors. But the money thrown at the motorsport does not compare to what it is here. Which is odd because in Japan, it is far more popular. I mean, Ford, GM, Dodge (once upon a time) Scion/Toyota, major motor brands backing cars here. That is why you see Vipers, C6 Corvettes, Mustangs, various Pontiacs, RWD converted Tc's, etc..where as that variation doesn't appear in other countries. All that to say that you won't find NASCAR motors and brand new crate engines flying off the shelves in other countries and thusly won't see 100+mph entries or cars that weigh more in "race form" than our cars in factory trim and largly, no need to sit 5 inches up. While that has absolutely nothing to do with me or my motivations, it does poke ever so many holes in your synapses.

drifting was simply giving a point of reference to why I said what I said. savvy?

 

I can't believe yaw are still arguing over this bs, this clearly is a **** contest b/c OP had left the building and started two useless thread about is it worth buying a set of $2,000 KW coils or Used coilovers... it's obvious he's thinking coils.

 

he's getting used KW V3. but only cuz my **** was stronger.

 

Wow mods lock this thread before more useless info is being thrown in here

 

...he replied uselessly...

 

Will post to OP (outside the other bickering) - thanks for response. Hope you saw my comment on not trying to be too harsh.

glad to hear you have track time to comment on:

Elaborate on you problem keeping 4 wheels on the ground?
couple things to consider:
which wheel is losing traction, is the rear inside wheel getting airborne?
wrong lines, hitting berms unnecessarily?
too stiff sway bar settings? (do you have adjustables?)

we have a starting point, now that "stance" and look are secondary (or not relevant at all) - good to hear by the way.

terra and threefifty have much more experience, listen to what they say

as for my path - was like threefifty said - I did tires first, made a world of difference; I did quaife next which was also a significant improvement (I haven't lifted a tire yet but my tracks are limited and flat); suspension is last.

pp

edit - sorry, saw your other thread - can reply here or there.

 

I think OP said he was going with KW V3 coilovers

edit - Just read the bottom of your post, my bad