TopSpeed Pro-1 CoilOver
TopSpeed Pro-1 CoilOver
I'm having hard time trying to understand the pre-set / pre-load, didn't come with any manual or help from the manufacture.
I have adjusted the both L&R rear spring at the same position but for some odd reason the driver is setting much lower.
Trying to get them at stock height.
I have adjusted the both L&R rear spring at the same position but for some odd reason the driver is setting much lower.
Trying to get them at stock height.
Springs arn't perfect, bushings have different stiction , front settings also effect the rear, rear settings also effect the front , shock length should be the same side to side, preload will be different. Sway bars also effect height, always disco sways when making spring adjustments.
On the rear I noticed the same on mine, with the drivers side having to be set slightly higher than the passenger to obtain an even L-to-R rear stance
For the fronts (and the rears if youre true coilover), assuming you dont have a helper spring, Id imagine you dont need to worry too much about the preload (assuming the manufacturer did their homework). Just set the spring snug plus a few turns. My logic is that the shock/spring combo was designed with proper piston travel (comp and rebound) without the need to significantly preload the spring to affect those values at static ride height.
If you were setting up your car, my understanding is as follows: Use your preload to set sag amount to affect usable piston stroke at static ride height (both rebound and compression - which as terramask noted can vary from side to side given all other factors equal), then use the shock body to set ride height, and subsequently corner balance. Use adjustable end-links to remove any resulting preload on the sways and align.
A good example on how good shocks dont rely on preload: The Bilstein PSS range of shocks have no adjustable body but use a helper spring, which allows you to set front ride height without preloading the main spring. This indicates that the PSS was designed from factory with shock travel to match the main spring compression at static with no need for preload adjustment. Another example stock Zs have very little preload on their front springs (eg no need for a spring compressor).
All this assumes linear springs of course.
You can use a zip tie on the shock piston to measure your sag and corresponding piston travel, but in reality the shock should be designed to work properly with minimal preload since it has adjustable shock bodies, IMO. If you arent bottoming or topping out, youre ok with the preload.
If you revised your spring rates and/or spring length, that would be a different story. Ideally in your case, youd send an email to the manufacturer asking them.
For the fronts (and the rears if youre true coilover), assuming you dont have a helper spring, Id imagine you dont need to worry too much about the preload (assuming the manufacturer did their homework). Just set the spring snug plus a few turns. My logic is that the shock/spring combo was designed with proper piston travel (comp and rebound) without the need to significantly preload the spring to affect those values at static ride height.
If you were setting up your car, my understanding is as follows: Use your preload to set sag amount to affect usable piston stroke at static ride height (both rebound and compression - which as terramask noted can vary from side to side given all other factors equal), then use the shock body to set ride height, and subsequently corner balance. Use adjustable end-links to remove any resulting preload on the sways and align.
A good example on how good shocks dont rely on preload: The Bilstein PSS range of shocks have no adjustable body but use a helper spring, which allows you to set front ride height without preloading the main spring. This indicates that the PSS was designed from factory with shock travel to match the main spring compression at static with no need for preload adjustment. Another example stock Zs have very little preload on their front springs (eg no need for a spring compressor).
All this assumes linear springs of course.
You can use a zip tie on the shock piston to measure your sag and corresponding piston travel, but in reality the shock should be designed to work properly with minimal preload since it has adjustable shock bodies, IMO. If you arent bottoming or topping out, youre ok with the preload.
If you revised your spring rates and/or spring length, that would be a different story. Ideally in your case, youd send an email to the manufacturer asking them.
Last edited by guitman32; Dec 16, 2013 at 05:30 PM.
On the rear I noticed the same on mine, with the drivers side having to be set slightly higher than the passenger to obtain an even L-to-R rear stance
For the fronts (and the rears if youre true coilover), assuming you dont have a helper spring, Id imagine you dont need to worry too much about the preload (assuming the manufacturer did their homework). Just set the spring snug plus a few turns. My logic is that the shock/spring combo was designed with proper piston travel (comp and rebound) without the need to significantly preload the spring to affect those values at static ride height.
If you were setting up your car, my understanding is as follows: Use your preload to set sag amount to affect usable piston stroke at static ride height (both rebound and compression - which as terramask noted can vary from side to side given all other factors equal), then use the shock body to set ride height, and subsequently corner balance. Use adjustable end-links to remove any resulting preload on the sways and align.
A good example on how good shocks dont rely on preload: The Bilstein PSS range of shocks have no adjustable body but use a helper spring, which allows you to set front ride height without preloading the main spring. This indicates that the PSS was designed from factory with shock travel to match the main spring compression at static with no need for preload adjustment. Another example stock Zs have very little preload on their front springs (eg no need for a spring compressor).
All this assumes linear springs of course.
You can use a zip tie on the shock piston to measure your sag and corresponding piston travel, but in reality the shock should be designed to work properly with minimal preload since it has adjustable shock bodies, IMO. If you arent bottoming or topping out, youre ok with the preload.
If you revised your spring rates and/or spring length, that would be a different story. Ideally in your case, youd send an email to the manufacturer asking them.
For the fronts (and the rears if youre true coilover), assuming you dont have a helper spring, Id imagine you dont need to worry too much about the preload (assuming the manufacturer did their homework). Just set the spring snug plus a few turns. My logic is that the shock/spring combo was designed with proper piston travel (comp and rebound) without the need to significantly preload the spring to affect those values at static ride height.
If you were setting up your car, my understanding is as follows: Use your preload to set sag amount to affect usable piston stroke at static ride height (both rebound and compression - which as terramask noted can vary from side to side given all other factors equal), then use the shock body to set ride height, and subsequently corner balance. Use adjustable end-links to remove any resulting preload on the sways and align.
A good example on how good shocks dont rely on preload: The Bilstein PSS range of shocks have no adjustable body but use a helper spring, which allows you to set front ride height without preloading the main spring. This indicates that the PSS was designed from factory with shock travel to match the main spring compression at static with no need for preload adjustment. Another example stock Zs have very little preload on their front springs (eg no need for a spring compressor).
All this assumes linear springs of course.
You can use a zip tie on the shock piston to measure your sag and corresponding piston travel, but in reality the shock should be designed to work properly with minimal preload since it has adjustable shock bodies, IMO. If you arent bottoming or topping out, youre ok with the preload.
If you revised your spring rates and/or spring length, that would be a different story. Ideally in your case, youd send an email to the manufacturer asking them.
Springs arn't perfect, bushings have different stiction , front settings also effect the rear, rear settings also effect the front , shock length should be the same side to side, preload will be different. Sway bars also effect height, always disco sways when making spring adjustments.
I tried searching, you post too much. So, whats the problem?
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Yawn, so ill go first then.
If your problem is youd prefer to first remove the spring, install the damper, mount wheel and set the shock body length so that you hit the bumpstops right before you rub using a floor jack, to give max piston travel before hitting the stops...id agree with you. But the bottom line is most of these mass produced model specific units are designed so all the user has to do is set spring preload to zero plus a few turns then use the shock body to determine ride height. Most manufacturer instructions call for the original procedure I outlined, not saying its optimal.
If you problem is geometry related, im all ears...
Im just trying to give this guy a starting point, not some advanced class cryptic shorthand answer.
If your problem is youd prefer to first remove the spring, install the damper, mount wheel and set the shock body length so that you hit the bumpstops right before you rub using a floor jack, to give max piston travel before hitting the stops...id agree with you. But the bottom line is most of these mass produced model specific units are designed so all the user has to do is set spring preload to zero plus a few turns then use the shock body to determine ride height. Most manufacturer instructions call for the original procedure I outlined, not saying its optimal.
If you problem is geometry related, im all ears...
Im just trying to give this guy a starting point, not some advanced class cryptic shorthand answer.
Yawn, so ill go first then.
If your problem is youd prefer to first remove the spring, install the damper, mount wheel and set the shock body length so that you hit the bumpstops right before you rub using a floor jack, to give max piston travel before hitting the stops...id agree with you. But the bottom line is most of these mass produced model specific units are designed so all the user has to do is set spring preload to zero plus a few turns then use the shock body to determine ride height. Most manufacturer instructions call for the original procedure I outlined, not saying its optimal.
If you problem is geometry related, im all ears...
Im just trying to give this guy a starting point, not some advanced class cryptic shorthand answer.
If your problem is youd prefer to first remove the spring, install the damper, mount wheel and set the shock body length so that you hit the bumpstops right before you rub using a floor jack, to give max piston travel before hitting the stops...id agree with you. But the bottom line is most of these mass produced model specific units are designed so all the user has to do is set spring preload to zero plus a few turns then use the shock body to determine ride height. Most manufacturer instructions call for the original procedure I outlined, not saying its optimal.
If you problem is geometry related, im all ears...
Im just trying to give this guy a starting point, not some advanced class cryptic shorthand answer.
I was trying to make sure i have my coilovers properly setup, i read above posts and was wondering if it applies to these fortune auto as the video says to adjust height through lower bracket?
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