Wheel Alignment Question
I got my my car aligned a couple months back but i just noticed wear on the inner part of my front right tire. Not sure if it could be due to bad alignment issue which caused my right inner tie rod to have play creating the uneven wear in my tire.
So my question is:
If the bad alignment caused my tie rod to give out would i be able to take it back to the alignment shop and let them know that since they didnt do a good job it caused my inner tie rod to fail and have them realign my car for free?
Dont know much about alignment specs so i didnt bother with it until recently since i noticed my car veering to one side as well as the bad wear on my tire.
Anyone got any Helpful suggestions?
Last edited by J.P.Illest; Dec 19, 2015 at 08:02 AM.
OP, it really depends.
First, do you have adjustable camber arms up front? Cause if not, the alignment tech would not be able to adjust camber. All they can adjust is toe. And looking at the sheet, they did just that.
For the rear, the adjustability for toe and camber is minimal. It looks like they got your camber back down and put your toe back into spec.
You cant blame a shop that did what they could with what you came in with. I would also check for worn out bushings, bent suspension, etc. on the front right. It should not be that much off compared to the left front.
Also what are you lowered on? Your alignment specs is what i usually see on slammed cars. Looks like someone lowered the rear and the front right and left the left front on stock suspension.
First, do you have adjustable camber arms up front? Cause if not, the alignment tech would not be able to adjust camber. All they can adjust is toe. And looking at the sheet, they did just that.
For the rear, the adjustability for toe and camber is minimal. It looks like they got your camber back down and put your toe back into spec.
You cant blame a shop that did what they could with what you came in with. I would also check for worn out bushings, bent suspension, etc. on the front right. It should not be that much off compared to the left front.
Also what are you lowered on? Your alignment specs is what i usually see on slammed cars. Looks like someone lowered the rear and the front right and left the left front on stock suspension.
Last edited by CJs_Z33; Dec 18, 2015 at 10:37 PM.
the car is slammed and you think an alignment caused your inner tie rod to fail. It could be the angle in which it was operating at or just wore out. Only fault of the shop, working on your car.
Lowered on fortune auto coilovers all around. Thank you CJs_Z33 for the input. I dont have camber arms up front hence the reason why camber wasnt adjusted up front.
Im not trying to blame the shop just curious to know about the possibilities of why my inner tie rod became worn out. After your input i assume just wear and tear.
Reason why the specs on the alignment were out of whack were due to me lowering the car, installing coilovers, rear camber arms, toe arms. Car was in a front end collision and repaired on the front left just trying to restore my car.
Im not trying to blame the shop just curious to know about the possibilities of why my inner tie rod became worn out. After your input i assume just wear and tear.
Reason why the specs on the alignment were out of whack were due to me lowering the car, installing coilovers, rear camber arms, toe arms. Car was in a front end collision and repaired on the front left just trying to restore my car.
Im not trying to blame the shop just curious to know about the possibilities of why my inner tie rod became worn out. After your input i assume just wear and tear.
Reason why the specs on the alignment were out of whack were due to me lowering the car, installing coilovers, rear camber arms, toe arms.Car was in a front end collision and repaired on the front left just trying to restore my car.
Car was hit on the front left about 2 years ago and repaired professionally my current issue is now my front right side which is where my tire has uneven wear. And yes my Z is somewhat slammed. Just a preference over stock height.
Last edited by J.P.Illest; Dec 19, 2015 at 07:46 PM.
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Did they put the stock suspension back on or something for the front left when they repaired it?
Only thing i have change up front is i went to coilovers instead of the stock suspension everything else i left the same up front.
Dynamics of the steering system, how do I go about this. Believe it or not but sides are equally connected to each other. When the car is on a rack, a slight turn of the steering wheel can move the toe from one side to another.
Alignment shops are also pretty clueless. Over the past 8 years many Z's have rolled of the alignment rack with problems that the alignment monkey didn't notice. Some things as big as a blown bushing.
Well that is your problem. Running different suspension up front. I say replace your coilovers, check for worn out bushings, ball joints, tie rods, get some adjustable camber arms, toe bolts, etc. and go back for a realignment.
Last edited by CJs_Z33; Dec 20, 2015 at 08:12 AM.
Well you have 3 negative degrees of camber on your right side and 1 negative degree on the left side AFTER the alignment and you still don't know why your right tire is wearing on the inside??????
Thank you guys for your input i will be installing some camber arms up front. I checked all the bushings, arms and rods and everything checked out fine. Hoping this will get my Z back on track.
Anyone have any suggestions on what else i need to adjust on my rear camber so that i am closer to -2/-1.5 camber? Wanting to run less camber for a dd.
I currently have SPL rear camber arms and SPC toe bolts for the rear but im still having -3 camber. Any suggestions besides increasing my ride height?
As far as my front camber from what i have been reading only SPL and SPC front camber arms allow you to adjust camber and caster. Anybody know of any other brand or recommendation to be able to adjust both front camber and caster?
I currently have SPL rear camber arms and SPC toe bolts for the rear but im still having -3 camber. Any suggestions besides increasing my ride height?
As far as my front camber from what i have been reading only SPL and SPC front camber arms allow you to adjust camber and caster. Anybody know of any other brand or recommendation to be able to adjust both front camber and caster?
Anyone have any suggestions on what else i need to adjust on my rear camber so that i am closer to -2/-1.5 camber? Wanting to run less camber for a dd.
I currently have SPL rear camber arms and SPC toe bolts for the rear but im still having -3 camber. Any suggestions besides increasing my ride height?
As far as my front camber from what i have been reading only SPL and SPC front camber arms allow you to adjust camber and caster. Anybody know of any other brand or recommendation to be able to adjust both front camber and caster?
I currently have SPL rear camber arms and SPC toe bolts for the rear but im still having -3 camber. Any suggestions besides increasing my ride height?
As far as my front camber from what i have been reading only SPL and SPC front camber arms allow you to adjust camber and caster. Anybody know of any other brand or recommendation to be able to adjust both front camber and caster?
Did you grind out for the toe bolt install, if so, your good.
If both above are good, you just need a good alignment tech, really not that easy to find.
Do you have factory Ecentric bolts in the camber arms. If you do they need to be centered, if you have a lock out you are good.
Did you grind out for the toe bolt install, if so, your good.
If both above are good, you just need a good alignment tech, really not that easy to find.
Did you grind out for the toe bolt install, if so, your good.
If both above are good, you just need a good alignment tech, really not that easy to find.
I have eccentric lockout bolts and i grinded down the toe bolt holes for the install so just trying to find a good technician would be the difficult part now.
Last edited by J.P.Illest; Jan 1, 2016 at 10:49 AM.
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