I am not sure which set of Bilstein 1upZ purchased but the front on my PSS10's can go a little bit lower from my current setting... any lower, I would rub. I'm assuming all Bilstein coilovers have the same height adjustment range.

EDIT:
Wheel: 19X9.5/10.5
Tires: 255/35/19 & 285/35/19

 

I currently still have my winter setup on, which is a set of touring v1 with 235/45 square (26.3" diameter). I'm currently out of town, but after I get back I'm putting on 19x9.5s with 265/35 and 275/35 tires.

 

Here you go, like I said from my interpretation of the instructions (which is only a picture with measurements in metric), the front is at the highest and rear at the lowest of their recommended range. Also the tires are 265/35R19 front and 275/35R19 rear.

 

Just a bit of a rehash on the preload thing.....
When I put coil overs on my car, both the front and rear shocks had more travel than the fully decompressed springs. So gravity was the only thing loading the springs. It *looks* like the helper spring in the pic is just there to keep everything lined up when it gets unloaded.

If they use a spring that's too long or a shock that is too short, I guess preload could become an issue.

 

There is more to it than that. A lot lot more.

Let's use my car for an example, I always run 8 inch springs for adjustment sake but...... Here is where the fun begins.

I have to run a helper out back with a 6k spring. I have about 1/2 inch to make up. Well if I were to buy a longer spring, guess what, to get the same height I would have to run the same amount of preload. No matter what I would need a helper spring. Option 2, run a shorter shock, well it's already pretty short with limited travel. How practical is it to change shock length for every spring, not all all , then you would have to reset bump stops etc etc. Pain in the behind.

I'm probably going to end up running helper springs up front too. When I bump up to 18k front springs I will need them to get my ride height.

 

When I put all 4 wheels in the air at once, the fronts have a ton of daylight between the springs and the top of the shock and the rears are totally decompressed withe 25lb/inch helper springs keeping them in the perches.

In my case, 8 inch springs might fit up front and still have room to unload at full droop, but the rears might always have load (be squeezed)....before the springs have to cary any of the car's weight.


This "squeezing" of the springs before thay are supporting the weight of the car....is this the preload you are talking about, or am I missing something?

I realize my stiff spring rates allow me to get away with short 6" springs that have a lot of room at full droop, but there is a lot of room on the front shocks for longer/softer springs and my ~400lb RSR's could unload at full droop in the back when they were on the car. (That massive rubber cone was keeping it in the perch under those conditions)

The picture of the front coilover setup looked like an uncompressed main spring and a mostly uncompressed helper. (Didn't look like the main spring had any load with the shock extended like that.)


I guess a 25lb/inch helper springs is technically preload but when mated to short and stiff springs I think they are just keeping the spring in place when it's unloaded.

 

Well the example above has no top hat and both springs are fully extended. Basically the stiffer the spring, the less preload needed and the more the helper spring will be extended with wheels in the air.

 

Looking good Stogey. Is that the lowest rear setting with locking collar removed?

 

Looking at your tire sizes now it makes more sense. Your running a larger than stock diameter tire up front and slightly smaller than stock in the rear. If you were to swap to the more popular 255/35 up front and 285/35 in the rear like Stogey u would have almost matching stock diameters and would be able to get an even drop without having opposite ride height limits from front to rear. It still looks pretty good though, how do u like the handling and ride quality? Get crazy on any twisties yet?

 

Correct. Note, my car is not that low... it's my body kit that add depth visually to my drop. My car is fully functional, I can go over 80+mph on the freeway hit a bump or a dip and it won't faze me but I avoid it at all cost.

 

Unfortunately I currently live in North Dakota, where there is no such thing as twisty roads, so I can't give you much insight on real handling.