Sheared UniBody Stud
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Sheared UniBody Stud
I hope I am posting this in the proper section. This is my first thread. Anyways reason why I am posting is because I have not seen many threads about the stripped unibody stud that holds the compression arm.
I was changing my front bushings (and will be doing the rear soon too). The nut was simply seized onto the stud. I pb blast it several times over a 6 hour time frame, used the torch on it, and it just sheared off completely due to frustration.
Next day got a m12 bolt (the unibody stud is m13 i believe), and welded the new bolt on (of course with prep work) and it sheared off once more. I was using a 110 v welder and jacked up the amp setting to its highest setting (eastwood). Anyways, the weld didn't hold and sheared off once more. Went through the same process once more, until we got a different welder (not sure what brand however 110 v), and heat the grade 8 m12 bolt with the torch.
After several mins of torching, slowed down the wire speed, amp up, and got the bolt to get good penetration to the stud (was glowing red hot). Grinded it down a bit, threw on some paint while it was still hot, and put everything back together the next day.
I drive this car (04 g35 6mt) in a spirited manner, and took it out on some back roads (in the suburbs of chicago, and even dt lower wacker tunnels) to ensure its strength. So far, the weld has been holding up well no issues.
The Energy Suspension polyurethane bushings are a significant improvement over the oem bushings. I noticed since the front is stiffer than the rear, it seems as if the car is tempted to slide.
The picture of the welded m12 bolt was the first attempt at welding it, however nonetheless the finished product still looked the same whilst being structurally capable.
Just wanted to share my experience lads
-Cengineer
I was changing my front bushings (and will be doing the rear soon too). The nut was simply seized onto the stud. I pb blast it several times over a 6 hour time frame, used the torch on it, and it just sheared off completely due to frustration.
Next day got a m12 bolt (the unibody stud is m13 i believe), and welded the new bolt on (of course with prep work) and it sheared off once more. I was using a 110 v welder and jacked up the amp setting to its highest setting (eastwood). Anyways, the weld didn't hold and sheared off once more. Went through the same process once more, until we got a different welder (not sure what brand however 110 v), and heat the grade 8 m12 bolt with the torch.
After several mins of torching, slowed down the wire speed, amp up, and got the bolt to get good penetration to the stud (was glowing red hot). Grinded it down a bit, threw on some paint while it was still hot, and put everything back together the next day.
I drive this car (04 g35 6mt) in a spirited manner, and took it out on some back roads (in the suburbs of chicago, and even dt lower wacker tunnels) to ensure its strength. So far, the weld has been holding up well no issues.
The Energy Suspension polyurethane bushings are a significant improvement over the oem bushings. I noticed since the front is stiffer than the rear, it seems as if the car is tempted to slide.
The picture of the welded m12 bolt was the first attempt at welding it, however nonetheless the finished product still looked the same whilst being structurally capable.
Just wanted to share my experience lads
-Cengineer
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