I had to replace my rear calipers because one of them was seized up. The easy part was the removal and replacement of the calipers, rotors and pads.

*This is a 2003 Performance (clarity w/o Brembo)

* I did so many things wrong here*

This was my first time bleeding brakes and figured how hard could it be everywhere I see on the instructions for replacing these items it just says "bleed brakes"

I then attempted to bleed the brakes with my wife pushing on the pedal in and then back out as I left the bleeder valve open. I then did just the rear because I figured that is all I needed to do. I got down the driveway and pushed...no brakes to the floor but I kept going hoping they would get better...nope....

I figured out the correct way to bleed the brakes push open valve close left brake pedal out. I did that until the brake fluid was low about 5 times on the rear only again...I am sure you know that didn't work.

I then read some more and looking for a better way/correct way. I got a vacuum pump kit with clear hoses and started at the right front and I got some air out and it want solid...yay...front...left same thing...I figure I am doing great...back right/passenger I have 1/2 tube of fluid 1/2 tube of air...I have drained and refilled the reservoir 10 times still the same issue...I am going to try the passager side to see if I get something different...

If someone can point me to something to try that would be great I am on 4 of just bleeding brakes...

 

Did you get the level of fluid in the reservoir so low that it put air into the system?

If you close the bleader and pump the brakes and test drive are they working properly again?

My bleader kit has a hose that goes into a glass jar and the air bubbles come out as you pump the brakes.. Just keep filling the reservoir till no bubbles... Good to go.

 

Ill throw this out their, for my truck all I do is open the bleeder have my wife push down on the pedal till all the way down, close bleeder, have her let up on pedal and pump a few times, repeat 3 times and call it good. ( refilling the reservoir as I go)

Hope that helps.

 

I did not do either of those at first and that was great information.

I do have a vacuum hose and pump that pulls the fluid out and into a plastic container (mine has to be cheaper than use cause you have glass)

I fear I might have drained the master cylinder dry or almost dry.

I don't think a first time at this could be much worse...

How do I know if there is air in the ABS? or should I concentrate on the brakes at this point?

I also looked all around the calipers and under the car for break fluid leaks I didn't see any. I was thinking maybe a line is cracked or I didn't torque a bolt tight enough.

 

Use a Motive Products Pressure Bleeder, not a vacuum bleeder, or you're not ever going to get the air out of the ABS pump. You'll need to bleed all 4 calipers, and follow the order listed in the FSM.

If you're not prepared o do this job correctly, have the car towed to a Nissan dealer and pay them. This is not a system to take chances with. As many times as you've pumped the master cyclinder, you may have damaged it, so that's something else you may need.

 

I was not prepared because I thought I could them the two person method. I realized that would not work so I figured I would get the vacuum pump. I am more than capable to bleed brakes I just need more information on the how, because what I am doing is not working.

In theory I would think the vacuum pump (pulling the fluid) would be the same thing as the Pressure Bleeder from the reservoir to the caliper (pushing the fluid). The only difference being the direction of flow.

The problem is what I am seeing in practice and on the forum when I search means the theory is just that theory.

Pumping the master cylinder..as in vacuum pumping it?

There are supposed to be many ways to bleed brakes why would this system only have one, that one being the Pressure Bleeder?

 

Practice has shown that pressure bleeding is easier, quicker, and gets more air out of the system. You may get some other method to work, but as you've seen, it's not so simple. Repeatedly pumping the brake pedal can quickly damage/wear out the master cylinder, as you're moving the piston much farther than it's normal travel, and if the cylinder bore is slightly worn or has some ridges, it tears up the piston seals. My Motive Bleeder is one of my most favorite and useful tools, and it's saved me many hours of aggravation. Learned my lesson maybe 12 years ago.

 

Even with a pressure bleeder, it's a pain to get to get air out if the ABS unit.

 

It is. Best to not let it run dry.

 

Jesus you have been a member on here for 13 years and this is your first post... That's impressive.

I dont get how you had almost no brakes even if you had some air bubbles left in the line it shouldn't be that bad.

At this point I would start the car pump the brakes a little bit, and then rebleed...

Do you bleed the brakes with the car on or off?

 

I had many more posts before they upgraded about 7 years ago. That was when I was single and in the car show scene.

I bleed the brakes with the car off. I saw someone on here had success with the car on. I tried it on one caliper and it didn't seem to make a difference.

 

I had a rear caliper lock up. On the left side. I bled the brakes and got a lot of air from the left rear, very little from any of the other three calipers. No apparent leaks. Just thought I would throw that out there. Seemed odd to me. I used a motive bleeder and a glass bottle, the glass bottle was free at Aldi with some French lemonade in it [tall bottle with a flippy cap like Grolsch beer. I like this bottle because it is taller than most beer or soda bottles and has a thin neck, and comes with a resealable cap]. In the army back in the day, we always just used soda bottles.

 

Update:

I purchased a Power Bleeder the one that everyone recommends Motive Products. I then bleed 2 Liters of brake fluid on all 4 corners!

The pedal is still a sponge.

I am hearing a hissss though when I push the brake pedal in and the brake pedal doesn't want to seem to hold pressure when I pump it up.

I have been searching of the forum and see some people say the brake booster goes bad when you have too much break others say when you have no brake?

The car does jerk stop when the pedal hits the floor...

Can someone tell me if this is maybe my next step the a Brake Booster replacement?

 

You may have trashed the MC with all the pumping before you got the pressure bleeder. If you're hearing a hiss when you hit the brake pedal, that's normal until all of the vacuum is bled out of the booster, and the vacuum doesn't get replenished until the engine is running again. I'm doubtful you need a new booster.