Latechrunner

Hey everyone,

I'm posting today on an issue I have kind of lived with for awhile and only recently tried to resolve the issue, however I'm now running into an even bigger problem .

I bought my z a couple years ago, 04 base, it came lower than factory but I never figured out how much lower the difference was

I realized there was noticeable camber in the wheels after owning it for awhile, but worse at the front. Even more, the front driver's side was more negative by about 1.5deg. I bought the spl a arms months ago and finally installed them last week and had it aligned.

The shop was able to get everything in spec, however I am now bottoming out BAD on the driver's side only, with the passenger clearing the frame by just enough on the inside. After getting under there and swinging the arm free from the steering knuckle, I'm realizing now that no matter what height I put the car, the rotation of the arm will contact the frame. The contact area is about 1" horizontal on the head of the arm. So I would basically have the set the spl arm back to factory length to get it to clear, resulting in the significant uneven camber side to side

I started pulling measurements from the lower compression arm to the knuckle, subframe, insides of the fender well, etc, and I found some slight differences but nothing that stood out to me like "that" was the problem.

Have any of you ran into this issue, or what kind of suggestions do you have? I'm kind of back to square one after spending some decent money and time ultimately getting nowhere to improve what my original issue was. And now I'm starting to dent the underside of my wheel well

Thanks in advance for the time!

guitman32

iTrader: (15)

How low is the car?

jdmfetish

iTrader: (3)

I run SPL arms and I am very low , I do not hit at all anywhere .
19 x 9.5 (+7 ) 225-35-19 ( -1.75 camber ) and 19 x 11 (+10) 255-35-19 ( -2.75 camber )

Latechrunner

Do you know how much the arms clear the inside of the wheel well on yours?

I had the shop set my front to -1 L&R, and with how much I'm hitting the left side, I would need at least -2.5, possibly more to clear the frame on the driver's side. I'll send a picture when I get back home

jdmfetish

iTrader: (3)

https://my350z.com/forum/media-share...ures-lots.html

if you scroll down thru my photos in the 1st post of my build thread , you can see the FUCA and what space is there as far as clearing

I don't think there is anything wrong with having -2.5 degrees negative camber in the front if that what it takes for you to clear , as long as your toe is at 0 , you should not have too much inner tire wear

the car comes stock with -1.5 negative camber

how much mileage is on the car , might you have any worn out bushing or something to that effect ?

Latechrunner

Sounds good, I'll give your build a look
I guess you're right about that. I haven't yet experienced that level of camber with otherwise correct toe/caster.

My main worry is it potentially needing to be more than that. I may just need to give it a shot and see what happens, but I will have to repair the wheel well since it has been bulged out from the bottoming out. Do you have any advice on methods for that? 😂 Tight room for conventional tooling

Mileage is just south of 87000. I drove the last 30k in the past 2.5 years. Bushings on other control arms visually appear to be okay. By that I mean no visual tearing and/or cracking, but I suppose they could have some wear that would contribute to this issue.