i own a 2003 350z touring model and i just replace the rear rotor, brake hose,caliper, and brake pads over the weekend and i have a very soft pedal (it a bit harder when the car is off) and when i took it around my apt i have to press the pedal 2-3 time for the brake to work. me and friend have bleed the brake 4 time(per tires) on saturday then on sunday we bleed it again another 4-5 time on each tires and nothing change at all. the system should have no air at all after 1 and a half bottles then yesterday on monday i when to go check the calipers and my roommate told me he hear nothing and see nothing moving on all 4 calipers(car was off) so i took it for another spin around the apt and still the 2 pump to the pedal to stop the car. there is no leak we check everything couldnt find any at all.

 

Did you bleed all 4 corners or just the rears? Do you have Brembo brakes? If so it usually helps to tap on them with a rubber mallet, or even remove one bolt and loosen the other and move the caliper around to free any stuck bubbles. If your MC res ever ran dry you could have air in the ABS pump, but engaging ABS would be a last resort if nothing else solves it.

 

Since you had to uncork the system (brake hose), 90% probability that you still have air in the system. Z has a notoriously difficult-to-bleed-entirely brake system. Partially due to fluid/air getting into the ABS system. You need to power bleed the system if you're not already doing so.

This works well and generally considered the go-to: https://www.motiveproducts.com/colle...-prong-bleeder but you can go to Harbor Freight and pick up one of these: https://www.harborfreight.com/brake-...der-92924.html I've personally not used the HF unit but have friends who use it and it works OK. Anything that relies on pressure/vacuum is going to be better than the "Pump it up...... hold it.... <spew>" method.

 

i dont got that brake kit ( i wish lol) and the mc never went dry im might just do vacuum bleed and yes i did all 4 corner and i replaced the rear brake hose for those aftermarket steel braided hose(idk if they gonna make any different) but thank for the info i have to wait 2 week before i can take my car to school and vacuum bleed it. @g356sp @MicVelo

 

I forgot about this
but a while back when the rear left wheel was bad and the rotor was grinding the crap out of the caliper and pad. I was driving home from school and out of no where my brake had gone out and after that I didn’t drive the z until last Saturday when replace the whole rear

 

Bleed the longest lines first. Bleed them ALL completely until the fluid looks new.
.
If you have someone pressing/pumping the brake peddle, tighten the caliper nipple on the last squirt before the peddle hits the floor.
.
Always keep the reservoir full, never let air into the lines.
.

 

i have already done that and it still feel the same

 

I pulled and powder coated my calipers last summer. So naturally all of the lines were exposed. I thought my brake booster went bad but it it was just air in the lines. It took 4 bleed session with a pneumatic bleeder to get full braking back. That's why Z's are notorious about this.

If you dont have a power bleeder Keep at it.

 

update: yea there was still more air in the system. it better to vacuum bleed than manual bleed. thank for the help guys