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The BEST way to bleed brakes.

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Old Nov 18, 2021 | 07:27 AM
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Default The BEST way to bleed brakes.

I should probably rename that to the ONLY way brakes should be bled. This will be pretty short and to the point. If you want a rock hard pedal and complete brake bleed, this is how you do it. If you like soft inconsistent brakes, keep doing what you have been doing.

Skip any sort of vacuum bleeder. Don't bother. It will not work.

Get a brake reservoir pressure bleeder. The Motive 0107 pressure bleeder is the one you need. An equivalent Chinese knock off will probably work too if you are on a budget, but probably will not last as long. I have used this for years to do my brakes, and it worked pretty well and was super quick but there was always some bad fluid stuck in the abs circuit that once I hit abs a few times, I could tell that the brakes would be a little worse and need additional bleeding.

The solution to this is the Foxwell NT630 Plus.

It connects to the OBD2 port and lets you turn on the abs pump and cycle each solenoid for each brake while bleeding.

This is what the process looks like.

Hook up pressure bleeder atleast half full of fluid and pump it to 15psi.
Hook up the bleeder line to the caliper. (outside then inside for any monoblock).
Open the bleeder and watch the nasty fluid come out.
Connect the NT630.
Turn on the abs pump,
Cycle the solenoid for the wheel you are bleeding. (5x)
Turn off abs pump and let it cool.
Move to next wheel.
Repeat 4x.

The difference is substantial when you make sure that the fluid in the abs pump and solenoids are completely flushed.

Last edited by GreyZ; Nov 18, 2021 at 07:29 AM.
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Old Nov 18, 2021 | 07:37 AM
  #2  
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Default

Originally Posted by GreyZ
I should probably rename that to the ONLY way brakes should be bled. This will be pretty short and to the point. If you want a rock hard pedal and complete brake bleed, this is how you do it. If you like soft inconsistent brakes, keep doing what you have been doing.

Skip any sort of vacuum bleeder. Don't bother. It will not work.

Get a brake reservoir pressure bleeder. The Motive 0107 pressure bleeder is the one you need. An equivalent Chinese knock off will probably work too if you are on a budget, but probably will not last as long. I have used this for years to do my brakes, and it worked pretty well and was super quick but there was always some bad fluid stuck in the abs circuit that once I hit abs a few times, I could tell that the brakes would be a little worse and need additional bleeding.

The solution to this is the Foxwell NT630 Plus.

It connects to the OBD2 port and lets you turn on the abs pump and cycle each solenoid for each brake while bleeding.

This is what the process looks like.

Hook up pressure bleeder atleast half full of fluid and pump it to 15psi.
Hook up the bleeder line to the caliper. (outside then inside for any monoblock).
Open the bleeder and watch the nasty fluid come out.
Connect the NT630.
Turn on the abs pump,
Cycle the solenoid for the wheel you are bleeding. (5x)
Turn off abs pump and let it cool.
Move to next wheel.
Repeat 4x.

The difference is substantial when you make sure that the fluid in the abs pump and solenoids are completely flushed.
Very interesting that NT630 Plus. I have the Motive 0117 ("upscale" version of 0107 but essentially the same thing) and it worked well but adding the NT630 seems smart and thorough. Good suggestion, thanks!
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Old Nov 23, 2021 | 02:19 AM
  #3  
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I still do the 2 person method with the 1-way bit of tube into a bottle. I do have a pressure bleeder but the frigging universal lid always comes off and makes a hell of a mess.
Any other recommended scanners for the ABS pump trigger ?
(in the UK so some other options are handy)
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Old Dec 9, 2021 | 04:08 AM
  #4  
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Default

Originally Posted by GreyZ
I should probably rename that to the ONLY way brakes should be bled. This will be pretty short and to the point. If you want a rock hard pedal and complete brake bleed, this is how you do it. If you like soft inconsistent brakes, keep doing what you have been doing.

Skip any sort of vacuum bleeder. Don't bother. It will not work.

Get a brake reservoir pressure bleeder. The Motive 0107 pressure bleeder is the one you need. An equivalent Chinese knock off will probably work too if you are on a budget, but probably will not last as long. I have used this for years to do my brakes, and it worked pretty well and was super quick but there was always some bad fluid stuck in the abs circuit that once I hit abs a few times, I could tell that the brakes would be a little worse and need additional bleeding.

The solution to this is the Foxwell NT630 Plus.

It connects to the OBD2 port and lets you turn on the abs pump and cycle each solenoid for each brake while bleeding.

This is what the process looks like.

Hook up pressure bleeder atleast half full of fluid and pump it to 15psi.
Hook up the bleeder line to the caliper. (outside then inside for any monoblock).
Open the bleeder and watch the nasty fluid come out.
Connect the NT630.
Turn on the abs pump,
Cycle the solenoid for the wheel you are bleeding. (5x)
Turn off abs pump and let it cool.
Move to next wheel.
Repeat 4x.

The difference is substantial when you make sure that the fluid in the abs pump and solenoids are completely flushed.
So bleed, then cycle the ABS pump after bleeding with the bleeder valves closed?
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Old Dec 13, 2021 | 10:09 AM
  #5  
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Originally Posted by KaizerWilhelm
So bleed, then cycle the ABS pump after bleeding with the bleeder valves closed?
Turn on the abs pump and cycle the solenoid with the bleeder valve at the caliper open.
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Old Aug 21, 2022 | 07:20 PM
  #6  
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Default Activate ABS Pump with Hi-Scan Pro CASCADE Emulator

Originally Posted by GreyZ
The solution to this is the Foxwell NT630 Plus.

It connects to the OBD2 port and lets you turn on the abs pump and cycle each solenoid for each brake while bleeding.
An alternative to this device, if you have a legacy 32-bit Windows laptop - is to order a $30 FTDI USB-to-ODBC adapter and use Hi-Scan Pro with CASCADE emulator. I used it successfully on my 2007 Hyundai Tiburon as well as my 2006 350Z. Can access major engine, A/T, SRS and ABS functions, etc. There are some things it cannot do, but it’s a lot richer for 350Z than the Tiburon without me having to bridge k-lines to pin 7 with a breakout box either.

See my demo:

http://instagram.com/ICT.350

The cable:
Washinglee K+CAN Diagnostic Cable:
https://a.co/d/eRHz2vi

The software:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1j1w...ew?usp=sharing

You’re welcome.
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