Installing new springs. Need some advice.
#1
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Installing new springs. Need some advice.
I'm going to be installing my S-techs come this sat, and I was wondering if anyone knew the torque specs for the bolts I'll have to be removing. I'm pretty sure the install isn't that complicated, and I'll probably pick up a spring compressor on Friday. Just trying to make sure I cover all of my bases before I get started. JmanZ is comming over with his Z and he is having me install a set of S-techs on his car too.
Does anyone have any tips or tricks I should know before I get started. I've never done springs before, but hey, how hard can it be right?
Anyways, any help would be great. Thanks!
Does anyone have any tips or tricks I should know before I get started. I've never done springs before, but hey, how hard can it be right?
Anyways, any help would be great. Thanks!
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A co-worker and I installed a set of Tein S Tech springs on my track z last Wednesday. Tips for the front: remove the strut bar and remove the one bolt holding the A arm assembly together. The rear is simply. Our total install time took us 3 hours.
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Sweet! Thanks for the pics. One question. Why did you have to remove the strut bar? It looks like you dont have to get to any bolts or anything.
The springs just showed up not 5 mins ago. I'm trying to resist the urge to do the install tonight after work. I should wait till the weekend just incase there are any problems and it takes me longer than I thought.
Does anyone know the torque specs by chance?
The springs just showed up not 5 mins ago. I'm trying to resist the urge to do the install tonight after work. I should wait till the weekend just incase there are any problems and it takes me longer than I thought.
Does anyone know the torque specs by chance?
#6
Is the picture of the 2 cars with the tein springs installed on both?
They don't look that lower...
Are the tein springs stiffer than standards?
Do you know the rates(if possible in kg/mm)?
They don't look that lower...
Are the tein springs stiffer than standards?
Do you know the rates(if possible in kg/mm)?
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Originally posted by maxi_z
Is the picture of the 2 cars with the tein springs installed on both?
They don't look that lower...
Are the tein springs stiffer than standards?
Do you know the rates(if possible in kg/mm)?
Is the picture of the 2 cars with the tein springs installed on both?
They don't look that lower...
Are the tein springs stiffer than standards?
Do you know the rates(if possible in kg/mm)?
Black Z has the Tein S Tech and Blue is stock.
Tein S Tech drop is about .7 inches front and .6 inches rear. After driving it 600 miles the springs has settled lower than the initial pictures.
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I got the rear springs on last night. I couldn't believe how easy they where. My dad and I fought with the front springs for a bit, but decided to wait till today to try and really get them off the car. We'll see how it goes after work today.
#13
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I slapped some Hotchkis springs on over the weekend. I honestly have to say the ride is better yet more taunt. I'm very pleased.
As for the install, the front is much harder obviously. IMO, removing the shock/spring assembly was the most difficult. I removed the top A arm which made for much more space. Also disconnecting the sway links made the control arm much more moveable. There's a lot of flex in the bushings so I just stepped on the control arm to drop it enough to move the bottom of the shock outwards and then unstraddle it.
Once i knew what I was doing (ie: reinstalling) it was much quicker, like 30 min per side.
You'll need an air compressor tool to unbolt the top cap of the shock. Hand tools don't generate enough torque and speed to work (I figured that out last Sunday aft when everything was closed). I simply brought both assemblies to a garage and it was done in minutes.
As for the install, the front is much harder obviously. IMO, removing the shock/spring assembly was the most difficult. I removed the top A arm which made for much more space. Also disconnecting the sway links made the control arm much more moveable. There's a lot of flex in the bushings so I just stepped on the control arm to drop it enough to move the bottom of the shock outwards and then unstraddle it.
Once i knew what I was doing (ie: reinstalling) it was much quicker, like 30 min per side.
You'll need an air compressor tool to unbolt the top cap of the shock. Hand tools don't generate enough torque and speed to work (I figured that out last Sunday aft when everything was closed). I simply brought both assemblies to a garage and it was done in minutes.
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I tried removing the upper A arm, but the bolts hit the spring! So I couldn't get them out. You don't even know how pissed I got at that point. For the life of me i also couldnt remove the bolt that goes from the sway link into the lower arm. The nut came off no problem, but holy damn that thing doesn't want to come out for anyone. I think my car has fused its self together or something.
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Originally posted by DrCold
I tried removing the upper A arm, but the bolts hit the spring! So I couldn't get them out. You don't even know how pissed I got at that point. For the life of me i also couldnt remove the bolt that goes from the sway link into the lower arm. The nut came off no problem, but holy damn that thing doesn't want to come out for anyone. I think my car has fused its self together or something.
I tried removing the upper A arm, but the bolts hit the spring! So I couldn't get them out. You don't even know how pissed I got at that point. For the life of me i also couldnt remove the bolt that goes from the sway link into the lower arm. The nut came off no problem, but holy damn that thing doesn't want to come out for anyone. I think my car has fused its self together or something.
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Originally posted by maxi_z
It looks nice!
What are you driving impressions?
Are those hoses around the springs sold with the springs?
It looks nice!
What are you driving impressions?
Are those hoses around the springs sold with the springs?
The hoses come with the springs.
#17
Lapulapu
So the springs are stiffer than standards, and the car is better when you drive fast, right?
Can you tell me a bit more about the camber kit, as I don't know wuch about the Z for now.
Is it that if you put too low springs, you will get too much negative camber?
Is the rear camber not adjustable at all in the z?
What about the front?
Do you know what are the standard or recommended geometry settings?
Thanks
So the springs are stiffer than standards, and the car is better when you drive fast, right?
Can you tell me a bit more about the camber kit, as I don't know wuch about the Z for now.
Is it that if you put too low springs, you will get too much negative camber?
Is the rear camber not adjustable at all in the z?
What about the front?
Do you know what are the standard or recommended geometry settings?
Thanks
#18
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Originally posted by DrCold
I tried removing the upper A arm, but the bolts hit the spring! So I couldn't get them out. You don't even know how pissed I got at that point. For the life of me i also couldnt remove the bolt that goes from the sway link into the lower arm. The nut came off no problem, but holy damn that thing doesn't want to come out for anyone. I think my car has fused its self together or something.
I tried removing the upper A arm, but the bolts hit the spring! So I couldn't get them out. You don't even know how pissed I got at that point. For the life of me i also couldnt remove the bolt that goes from the sway link into the lower arm. The nut came off no problem, but holy damn that thing doesn't want to come out for anyone. I think my car has fused its self together or something.
The sway link can be removed by using a jack under the control arm near the hub. Raise the jack/suspension enough to remove tension off the link and it should easy to pull out of the control arm.
Last edited by FritzMan; 04-07-2004 at 11:44 AM.
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Originally posted by FritzMan
He, he, I went through the same thing. The key to getting the A arm bolts out is to first remove the sway link (see below) and lower shock bolt. Then remove the top three bolts on the assembly (shock/spring) so that it is completely loose within the wheel well. It can then be pulled down slightly from the tower. Be sure to use your body weight on the control arm to get it to drop enough. If you're lucky the top three bolts can clear the tower and you can push the assembly fore/aft to get lots of room to the A arm bolts. If not, you should have enough verticle movement of the assembly to unthread the bolt between coils.
The sway link can be removed by using a jack under the control arm near the hub. Raise the jack/suspension enough to remove tension off the link and it should easy to pull out of the control arm.
He, he, I went through the same thing. The key to getting the A arm bolts out is to first remove the sway link (see below) and lower shock bolt. Then remove the top three bolts on the assembly (shock/spring) so that it is completely loose within the wheel well. It can then be pulled down slightly from the tower. Be sure to use your body weight on the control arm to get it to drop enough. If you're lucky the top three bolts can clear the tower and you can push the assembly fore/aft to get lots of room to the A arm bolts. If not, you should have enough verticle movement of the assembly to unthread the bolt between coils.
The sway link can be removed by using a jack under the control arm near the hub. Raise the jack/suspension enough to remove tension off the link and it should easy to pull out of the control arm.