HELP! Track Brembo rotors need replacing - need cost effective options!
With only 20K miles on my stock Track, I need rear rotors replaced. What are my cost effective options? I looked at Performance Nissan, and they only stock the (ridiculously expensive) OEM Brembo rotors or even more expensive upgrade rotors!
Do the Stillen slotted ones work on the OEM Track Brembos? They're only $220 or so on another website.
Thanks in advance.
Jeffrey
Do the Stillen slotted ones work on the OEM Track Brembos? They're only $220 or so on another website.
Thanks in advance.
Jeffrey
Originally posted by jng1226
With only 20K miles on my stock Track, I need rear rotors replaced. What are my cost effective options? I looked at Performance Nissan, and they only stock the (ridiculously expensive) OEM Brembo rotors or even more expensive upgrade rotors!
Do the Stillen slotted ones work on the OEM Track Brembos? They're only $220 or so on another website.
Thanks in advance.
Jeffrey
With only 20K miles on my stock Track, I need rear rotors replaced. What are my cost effective options? I looked at Performance Nissan, and they only stock the (ridiculously expensive) OEM Brembo rotors or even more expensive upgrade rotors!
Do the Stillen slotted ones work on the OEM Track Brembos? They're only $220 or so on another website.
Thanks in advance.
Jeffrey
I was just at my Nissan dealership to investigate a squeak I've been hearing from the rear when I move from a standstill. At first they told me it was rear pads, because they looked thin. When they pulled the calipers to replace the pads, they then saw that the rotor was actually thin and needed replacing. I'm pretty sure they weren't out to make a buck because the guy told me to go find somthing in the aftermarket because the dealership sells the OEM Brembo replacement rotors for $495. I was going to get the Tilton Flywheel/Clutch upgrade and now this! ARGGGHH!
I'm suprised to hear that your rotor has worn down that much. I've got plenty of rotor left, albeit the small heat cracks that have developed. 22000 miles, 2000-3000 are track miles...
Originally posted by John
I'm suprised to hear that your rotor has worn down that much. I've got plenty of rotor left, albeit the small heat cracks that have developed. 22000 miles, 2000-3000 are track miles...
I'm suprised to hear that your rotor has worn down that much. I've got plenty of rotor left, albeit the small heat cracks that have developed. 22000 miles, 2000-3000 are track miles...
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This is what the Nissan tech told me when the car was up on a lift, unfortunately I didn't think to take pictures.
I called him again to ask specifically what the problem was, and he said that the pad was worn into the rotor past the point where the rotors could be resurfaced.
Does this possible? Is this likely with street-only driven car (not all that hard either) in exactly 20,061 miles?
The tech said he thought that perhaps the Brembo rotors are just on the soft side.
I called him again to ask specifically what the problem was, and he said that the pad was worn into the rotor past the point where the rotors could be resurfaced.
Does this possible? Is this likely with street-only driven car (not all that hard either) in exactly 20,061 miles?
The tech said he thought that perhaps the Brembo rotors are just on the soft side.
I agree with John... that does not make sense. I have 4500 track-miles on my OEM Brembos and the rotors are still 100% spec. And, I use an aggressive racing brake pad at the track.
Maybe he's trying to tell you some pad material is deposited on the rotor??? That will happen when the rotor and pad are both hot and you hold the brake pedal down for too long... like at a long stop light or something. You can remove that yourself with a
Scotchbrite pad or soft steel wool, soapy water and elbow grease.
Now, if you had no more pad material and you pressed the backing plate into the rotor, that will cause a problem... metal on metal is not good for the rotor.
Maybe he's trying to tell you some pad material is deposited on the rotor??? That will happen when the rotor and pad are both hot and you hold the brake pedal down for too long... like at a long stop light or something. You can remove that yourself with a
Scotchbrite pad or soft steel wool, soapy water and elbow grease.
Now, if you had no more pad material and you pressed the backing plate into the rotor, that will cause a problem... metal on metal is not good for the rotor.
Originally posted by Audito350Z
You can remove that yourself with a
Scotchbrite pad or soft steel wool, soapy water and elbow grease.
You can remove that yourself with a
Scotchbrite pad or soft steel wool, soapy water and elbow grease.
And as an added bonus, you could use them on the track!

Michael.
Rotora will have OE replacement rotors available for the factory Brembo brakes in the next month and a half or so. I talked to the manager of development as well as the owner today and they both confirmed this for me.
Originally posted by Michael-Dallas
Ick. I tried that when I roasted my DS2500. I gave up after a half/hour of nothingness and bought a set of Hawk Blues and ran them on the street for a couple of days.
And as an added bonus, you could use them on the track!
Michael.
Ick. I tried that when I roasted my DS2500. I gave up after a half/hour of nothingness and bought a set of Hawk Blues and ran them on the street for a couple of days.
And as an added bonus, you could use them on the track!

Michael.
Originally posted by Trent@MVP
Rotora will have OE replacement rotors available for the factory Brembo brakes in the next month and a half or so. I talked to the manager of development as well as the owner today and they both confirmed this for me.
Rotora will have OE replacement rotors available for the factory Brembo brakes in the next month and a half or so. I talked to the manager of development as well as the owner today and they both confirmed this for me.
John et al,
Thanks for the advice. I've got another Nissan Dealer looking at it today, and I've got my digital camera ready
My 2003 DB Track was delivered in Nov '02 to a Nissan regional rep. I bought it with 15K miles on it 2 months ago. Now I know being one of the first cars in the country AND being a rep's car probably means this car was Demo'ed (i.e. driven like hell
) a lot, but it also means to me that it was always serviced properly at a Nissan dealership.
In fact, when I had a baseline dyno done before my exhaust, it put down 8-10 HP more than a stock 2004 with 10K miles the next day under identical conditions (and this on a Dynapack dyno, which is not affected by wheels, tire pressure, etc.).
Anyway - I do hope that Nissan takes care of it, because I frankly think it's ridiculous that the REAR rotor would be shot in 20K miles, the last 5K of which was me commuting and on the highway with VERY littel brake action.
Thanks again and I'll post later when I find out what's going on.
Thanks for the advice. I've got another Nissan Dealer looking at it today, and I've got my digital camera ready

My 2003 DB Track was delivered in Nov '02 to a Nissan regional rep. I bought it with 15K miles on it 2 months ago. Now I know being one of the first cars in the country AND being a rep's car probably means this car was Demo'ed (i.e. driven like hell
) a lot, but it also means to me that it was always serviced properly at a Nissan dealership. In fact, when I had a baseline dyno done before my exhaust, it put down 8-10 HP more than a stock 2004 with 10K miles the next day under identical conditions (and this on a Dynapack dyno, which is not affected by wheels, tire pressure, etc.).
Anyway - I do hope that Nissan takes care of it, because I frankly think it's ridiculous that the REAR rotor would be shot in 20K miles, the last 5K of which was me commuting and on the highway with VERY littel brake action.
Thanks again and I'll post later when I find out what's going on.
While your car might be "old", mine is older...
(Delivered 9.6/02) If you want to see a car that's had the **** driven out of it, come see mine. Hell, it's a sports car, at least I know I use my car what it's for. That being said, with the OEM Ferodo pads, I see no way that it could have worn down your rotors. When the time comes for you to replace them, hopefully there will be more affordable replacement options for us.
(Delivered 9.6/02) If you want to see a car that's had the **** driven out of it, come see mine. Hell, it's a sports car, at least I know I use my car what it's for. That being said, with the OEM Ferodo pads, I see no way that it could have worn down your rotors. When the time comes for you to replace them, hopefully there will be more affordable replacement options for us.
you can buy factory brembo from tirerack.com and they'll give you a good deal too.. I paid 700.00 shipped for factory cross drilled brembo's for the track... You can even get them slotted if you want.. And that was for all 4..
I called Rotora today and they told me that the OE replacement rotors will be ready in mid Sept.
Front slotted: $195/rotor
Rear slotted: $185/rotor
Front cross drilled and slotted: $235/rotor
Rear corss drilled and slotted: $225/rotor
Front slotted: $195/rotor
Rear slotted: $185/rotor
Front cross drilled and slotted: $235/rotor
Rear corss drilled and slotted: $225/rotor
We are currently running the DBA 2 pc rotors on our GAC race cars. After you get a complete set.....you only have to buy the disc after that. We have slotted and plain disc in stock now.
BJ@350EVO.com
BJ@350EVO.com
Originally posted by dwnshift
We are currently running the DBA 2 pc rotors on our GAC race cars. After you get a complete set.....you only have to buy the disc after that. We have slotted and plain disc in stock now.
BJ@350EVO.com
We are currently running the DBA 2 pc rotors on our GAC race cars. After you get a complete set.....you only have to buy the disc after that. We have slotted and plain disc in stock now.
BJ@350EVO.com



