I want to change a break fluid. Can somebody guide me to an step-by-step guide for guy who never did it before?

Also what brake fluid would you suggest? Something I can get in auto parts store.

Thanks

 

ATE SuperBlue / Typ200 is a great fluid for the money.

Some people recommend doing it in an x-pattern, but I stick with doing it from the farthest from the brake fluid reservoir to the closest. So start with the right rear, then left rear, then right front, then left front. I haven't done a Z with the non-Brembo brakes, so I can't give you too much insight. Start by opening up the brake fluid reservoir. What you will want to do is have a friend operate the brake pedal. Then communicate with them so that they pump the brake pedal a few times, then hold it. Then you'll open the bleeder valve until the pedal is almost at the floor where they will tell you to close the bleeder valve. Repeat many times until all the fluid is flushed out (the OEM DOT 3 stuff is crap). I suggest going with the SuperBlue since it'll be easy to tell that you've gotten all the fluid out of that line. Here's a great article on bleeding brakes:

http://www.stoptech.com/whitepapers/...rakesright.htm

 

How much of that stuff will I need?

 

You should be able to get by on 1L (one can), but I'd get a 2nd for future use. www.ogracing.com has them for $10-11 / can.

 

The article above is about how to bleed the system.
How do I flush it completely?

 

same way... you will bleed out all the old fluid and replace it with new. You can judge how much fluid you have gone through by keeping an eye on the fluid reservoir.... as it nears empty, you will know you are jsut about all out of the old stuff...

MAKE SURE you do not run the brake fluid reservoir dry... not good.

 

I love disagreeing with John.

So, per the shop manual, start with the LEFT rear, then right front, right rear and finish at the left front. John's order follows common sense & logic for a non-split master cylinder, BUT we have a duel master cylinder. Nissan says do it this way. ABS, proportioning valves, etc. make things weird!

If you're going to do it, do it right!

Oh yeah, Motul 600 has a higher boiling point. So that's what I use!

 

I've done it both ways, but have seen no difference. :shrug:

I don't always follow the Nissan FSM, as I've seen several errors in it already. (In fact, I believe there was one with the bleeding IIRC.)

 

So you saying I just add new fluid when tank is nearly empty and keep adding till it starts bleed blue? That simple?

 

I'd say add more fluid to the reservoir once the level gets to the Min line. As mentioned above, if you let the reservoir get too low, you'll get air in your lines. If you go with the ATE SuperBlue and do a complete flush, yet, you know the line will be free of the old DOT 3 when you start seeing blue come out. Also make sure that no little air bubbles are coming out. If they are, then keep on bleeding. I think switching between the SuperBlue and Typ200 (gold) is good when you do a complete flush since you know when all the old fluid is free and clear of the system.

 

But if I add blue at MIN level old and new will mix together in reservoir!

 

Yeah, a little bit, but keep on adding, and 99% of it will be flushed out eventually. If you get air in your lines, it can take ages to get out...

 

for those of us without friends or relatives that want to press brake pedals... I just picked this up from advance auto parts and it did a very nice job.

http://www.partsamerica.com/PartDeta...egoryCode=3378