The fluid in the calipers is more important, since it's the stuff that has been heat cycled the most. There's no return path from the calipers back to the reservoir, so there's minimual mixing of "wet" fluid from one end of the system to the other. Frequently replacing just the fluid in the reservoir will not really buy you much.

But you have hit the nail on the head. The most efficient way to bleed the brakes is to suck out all (or as much as you can) of the old stuff from the reservoir first, then pour in fresh fluid. That way you minimize dilution of good fluid with bad fluid.

 

Don't get me wrong, I meant to flush the calipers after the reservoir fluid is replaced.

I view the brake fluid in the reservoir the same as fluid that has been sitting around in a leaky can that has been shaken every day, so why not get rid of it before flushing the calipers with it- or a mix of it and new fluid.

 

We're in 100% agreement.

I'm not sure if I already posted a link to it, but here's my step-by-step for brake bleeding. There are a few tidbits in there that really help firm up the pedal feel by getting every little bubble out. For example, I advocate using a rubber mallet to whack the calipers a few times in order to dislodge any stubborn bubbles, prior to opening the bleed screw. Check it out: http://www.zeckhausen.com/bleeding_brakes.htm

 

Yeah that is very similar to the Stoptech instructions which also mention using a rubber mallet between bleedings. The bottom line is follow a good set of instructions, make sure you don't see any air bubbles, and you should use around .5 Liters of brake fluid.

 

I just got the track calipers, SS lines and rotors and have a couple of questions for people that already installed them.

1)The rear backing plate that people are cutting. What does this backing plate do and is it worth buying the track backing plate for $130.00

2) Beside bolts and nuts is there anything else needed to install them on a base mode (for example brackets)?

Any help would be appreciated.

 

It basically blocks airflow to your rear rotors, causing them to run at a higher temperature. This isn't important on the street, but at the track, your rear brakes may get hot enough that your pads may be consumed rapidly.

If you plan to track the car, then cut off the interfering portion of the backing plates. If you are only going to run the car on the street, then you may want to install the Track Model backing plates in order to reduce water and road debris from hitting the inside of the rear rotors. Even then, it's not a big deal. I've run many cars on the street without backing plates, including my wife's 2005 Chrysler 300C, which has a StopTech 4-wheel BBK installed.

 

The backing plates are to protect the disc and parking brake assembly from debris, snow and water. I live in California where this is not an issue, and since they are routinely removed for racing applications, I removed them.

The shield is composed of 2 pieces that are spot welded together, a central piece which is bolted to the car by the bolts retaining the hub and a peripheral piece spot welded to the central piece. The peripheral piece can be removed by simply cutting around the central piece with right and left hand aviation snips which is what I did. The cleanest method would be to separate the pieces at the spot welds, but this would require removal which is a bit of a job since the hub would need to be pulled. Perhaps a cutting blade can be slipped between the two parts, I didn't try.

To remove and replace the shield with the Track shield involves pulling the hub which requires a puller to pull the hub from the half shaft.

The shield for the front is the same Track or Non-Track model.

If you are using Stoptech style rear brake lines, the bracket on the back of rear caliper used for the stock lines is not necessary. If you are using stock style type lines, you will need the bracket.

The bolts for the rear caliper are different I recall.

 

DZECKHAUSEN and CUPCAR thanks for the help I can't wait to get these on my car.

 

I used tin-snips to remove my backing plates a long time ago, and I have had NO issues, even driving every day through 2 Chicago Winters. I did a write up that I posted here almost 2 years ago. The search engine is wacky these days, so not sure if it's accessible.

The rear caliper mounting bolts ARE different for the track Brembos. Not sure of the thread pitch, but they are a finer thread.

Found the old thread form 7/03:

https://my350z.com/forum/brakes-and-suspension/35490-improving-rear-brake-cooling-removing-dust-shield.html

Hope it works.........