Jason you have any updates

 

Well the SPC bolts took forever and should finally be here tomorrow (so says UPS) and my JIC Shock got here saturday (thanks to JIC being fast) so I will probably do the install on thursday night.

I will be sure to take lots of pictures of the SPC bolt install and try to get a nice little how-to made for everyone. I am also constructing custom upper rubber boots for the rear spring because you can't fit the JIC spring/purch in the correct way without modification.

jason

 

 

Jason.....

Thanks in advance for your help.

 

Jay please take lots of pics I want to show them to my installer so he knows exactly what to do, I'm not sure if hes ever installed these before.

Where did you get the bolts?

Was this causing rattling like something sounded loose when going over bumps? Im curious cause just recently my rear spring/purch has been making noises when going over bumpy roads I wounder if I have to do the same thing with my teins.

 

I got the bolts from Florida Tire here in Jacksonville FL. I called SPC and had them refer me to a local distributor and they special ordered the parts. It was like $22.00.

That is the exact cause of it.. you probably have your rear suspension installed upside down (either on purpose or not) and it causes rattling. I don't have the part numbers for the stuff I bought, but I will take lots of pictures and whatnot. I am definitely tired of rattles in my brand new car.

jason

 

whoa I just paid $45.00 for the bolts and another $25.00 to get them overnighted.

well im gonna have everything redone when I get the camber kit installed over the weekend, but for the first few months the coilovers were not making any noises, it just started rattling a couple weeks ago I hope the problem is that the spring is installed upside down.

 

yeah i flirted with a receptionist and got their cost.. hah.

i can almost promise you it's your spring/purch assembly making the noise being that it is upside down. my setup didn't rattle at all until about a month ago and it got pretty annoying.

just a word to the wise on the camber arm install, make them the exact length of the stock arms and install them, then work on shortening them up; unless you arent wrenching, then no worries.

 

How about the kenetix rear camber arms (not the traction ones)? Are they any good? Do they bring the camber back into specs. I am hesitant in buying the spc due to hearing you have to drill/file the hole and making it bigger for the toe bolt? Is there not an oem size toe bolt longer than stock? I guess you can't use or go back to stock right after using the spc kit? Any info is appreciated.

 

The arms help to a certain degree. Getting the enlarged bolt give the rest of the adjustment to get camber back to spec. It is completely dependent on how low your car is, what your neg. camber is, what kind of tire wear you want to achieve, and how much you want to spend/how close you want to get to stock camber. I've got a G35 sedan - lowered on 20's down to the top of the tire - camber is 1.60, 1.85 (front/rear) I've got the camber arms installed - definitely better than stock adjustment - but without the bolts could not get all the way to stock spec.

I've got a set of Kinetix traction arms that I didn't use for sale if anybody is interested.

email me : dmatoba@socal.rr.com

 

Checkout this post on the toe bolt install: http://members.***.net/chadisrad/SPC.pdf

It is very straight-forward and not as bad as it sounds. The camber arms are direct bolt on. www.camberkit.com

 

I did the install myself on a G35 and found that the pdf was extremely helpful but there were a few things missing that someone might need to know.

1. Simple wrenches might not get it done to release the bolts from the stock camber arms. I have a electric impact gun/wrench and it helped getting loose one of the bolts i would not have been able to loosen by hand. Its fairly cheap $50 bucks and a set of impact lugs are about $25.

2. You really need the extension for the dremel tool, without it you can't really maneuver where you need to to drill out the aluminum. He's absolutely right about that #115 bit, it grinds through like butter (i bought mine for $4 bucks at Home Depot).

3. On the Z the sway bar is differerent from a G, so you can easily get to the front side to drill out the material, but if you have a G you need to loosen the two lower bolts holding the sway bar and you can jsut push teh bar back and remove the rubber piece that is above the bar, it helps it from squeaking i believe. Thats the only way to drill out the front one unless you can find a dremel type extension that is very narrow in the front so you can fit it through the rear hole you already drilled. Also in the pics, its an aftermarket exhaust, i believe that gives him a little more room to move around while drilling.

4. After you have installed the toe bolt, turn it until the back locking lug is positioned to the inside lower right for the left side and vice versa for the right side. Thats pretty much the position it needs to be in for the toe to be pretty spot on until you get a real alignment.

5. Also i'd position the bolt in first before i'd mess the rod. Positioning the rod seemed alot easier with the toe bolt in first, I did it both ways and it just seemed easier to adjust the rod length in place when i had the bolt already done.

Hope that helps.

Also I bought from japdirect.com $219 shipped to the house, no better deal out there.

 

Ok what about the 350Evo Camber arm package. Is this made as the kinetix arms are.. Will they have to be lubricated and will they squeek??

 

Nismo, Where did you get your Tein's with the EDFC and how much? Im looking at this set up but havent been able to talk to anyone who has it with the EDFC and get any feed back. Also how much of a drop are you looking at with the springs on this. I know its adjustable. Thanks.

 

Just an update, the site is not www.japdirect.com, it is www.iapdirect.com