I have a 2002 Maxima SE with 87k but it has a body kit and aftermarket exhaust. The kbb trade-in is 5900 but the payoff for my loan is about 7400. Do you think it's possible to get them to payoff my car without adding a bunch of money to the final price of the Z? If not then I just may have to be patient and wait for somebody to buy my car at $7000.

I just went on overstock.com and got the cheapest quote ever. '08 enthusiast for 22,184. I keep seeing people talking about 1.9% financing. Is that automatic if you have good credit or is it more involved? Is it possible to get that deal with little/no money down? Is it possible to talk the price down from there or can I assume that overstock is the best quote possible. I've never purchased a new car only used so I don't really know how it works.

 

overstock.com is this weeks rage. I don't trust it. Cars are priced with BS like “$2,500 buyer incentive.”

If you want a 350Z 2008, go to carmax in White Marsh, and see if they can give you a deal.

 

Do they offer the same financing options as going straight to Nissan?

 

Also the site shows me 3 dealerships in the MD area that will honor the price. Norris Nissan West, Herb Gordon Nissan, and Brown's Sterling Nissan(VA)

 

Pull your research and go to the dealers the site mentions and see what happens. You really won't know until you test what information you have. Also be advised, the market drives alot of the conditions. I think you have leverage on your side for any 2008 purchase.

 

Does a $400 payment sound possible for 22-24,000?

 

Yes because I paid 500 down, and got a touring with navi and side bags for 28+TTL, I did get the 1.9% so including all fees my monthly is 524 so you can do this for 400 and change since this is 60 month special

the 1.9% is good credit but the dealers do their best to qualify you, you should make it clear you want the 1.9% otherwise you wont do it and never tell them what you expect to pay a month, they will adjust your down payment etc, first negotiate a price upfront with all fees understood then do the math, you can use a online calculator such as http://www.cars.com/go/advice/financ...c/loanCalc.jsp

A quick review of your case suggests if you can get the car for 22, assuming sales tax of 7% and 500 down, your payments will be around 402 a month

 

Only 500 down? thats crazy. Man you got a helluva deal but I just saw an 07 Touring for 24,000 advertised on Autotrader and of course the 08 Enthusiast but our sales tax is 6%.

So you're saying just negotiate the price with them first then let them know I want the 1.9% and what if they tell me $450/month. That's too high. Do I just tell them "no"?

 

Assuming they gave you $5900, which would be a pretty big assumption, you'd be rolling $1500 into the loan on the 350Z. If you think you could sell it pretty fast for $7000 then by all means do that. I have no idea what an 02 Maxima with 87k is worth, but you should check KBB, NADA, and Edmunds TMV to get an honest idea of book value on it.

If you have good credit you can roll a few grand into the new loan, which would not be a killer considering how cheap they're supposedly willing to sell the new one for, but it will hurt your payment and your overall deal. Maybe you're okay with this and maybe you're not.

 

Yeah I got a great deal, my msrp was 37050, I got the car for 28k. Originally I told the dealer I was going to put 3000 down but when I went to the finance room I told him it was 500, he checked my credit and said it was fine.

First you have to decide if your going to trade it in. If you are then you have a little for diificulty. If you can get rid of it first, then you should not even tell them how much you want to pay a month, call each dealers sales manager who has stock of the car (make sure you check this at nissanusa.com before even approaching a dealer, the more in stock they have the better your bargaining power) you want (usually the largest dealers are the best to call first). Tell the sales manager Im getting the car for x (usually tell them 200-300 below what price you are actually getting) and with 1.9%, tell the manager if he wants your business he has to beat the price. Make sure you qualify that you want to see the car and test drive it as some of these cars have been on the lot for a while and gathered dings and dust, I was lucky mine was in the showroom all the time. Usually this works well and 1-2 of them will make a deal over the phone. But never tell them how much you want to spend a month, these dealers are masters at moving amounts, asking for more downpayment, putting amounts in the fees, negotiate a upfront total price and then let the numbers work out on their own.

I agree to try and sell the car, go to carmax they usually give a good deal. Otherwise trade in is a problem. Regarding overstock, I used it to my benefit, so as the previous person said I dont know if it is accurate but I paid very close to what the price on overstock said I got get the car for, so it was accurate for me.

If you want to see what historically people have paid for 350z and what dealers are giving what deals, in addition to overstock, you can go to http://www.realcartips.com/ go on the right to browse models and find the car, its not an exhaustive database but helpful. Also edmunds has a tmv section after your research the car which is what a typical deal is.

Right now you have the bargaining power, the only thing bogging you down is your used car, if you can sell it you can get a good deal since dealers are anxious to get rid of stock, also I played on my dealers sensitivities, told him how is business, his response was "what do you think?" Show them you are serious but willing to wait to get the best deal, play the games they play on us, I can buy a car now but you have to decide, my offer is only good right now...

 

You should go to Nissanusa.com and see what inventory those dealers have on hand, and then of course go see the car(s) in person during the daytime to see if it's the right piece to begin with.

I looked at 08's on several lots, and many of them were "lot worn" from sitting in inventory for months...dings, scrapes, curb rash(!), covered in swirl marks, holes drilled in the bumper for front license plate, etc. Even if one of those dealers offers a great price, you still need to carefully check the car out to make sure it's even worth it.

 

Thanks guys. I really appreciate all the help. I didn't know nissanusa.com had all of the local inventory. I found a few that I'm interested in. The only problem is that there are more Touring's than Enthusiast's. With a $3000 difference I think I have a better chance of staying under $400/month with the enthusiast. Otherwise, I wouldn't even bother with the cloth seats.

 

good luck and let us know how it turns out

 

be careful with how they play with the numbers. you tell them 400$ a month, and they will work out a 6 year loan to make life easier. what you should be more interested in is a: the OTD cost of the car you are eyeballing and b: what you will receive for the trade in of your vehicle.

they are slimy little bastards. make sure they don't tag you with some large doc fees or something else, they can make numbers appear great and you wouldn't realize it until it's too late.

 

Yup exactly what I said too

 

alright i need to have an idea of what to expect when I get there. My score is ~640 and my wife's is ~760 do you think we could qualify for the 1.9% rate if we apply together? She does have over 100k in school loans since she's in law school but they don't kick in until the end of this year. Her CC limit is like 12,000. All of my CC's are paid off and my current car loan will be paid off. All I have is 1 school loan for 12k. How do the odds sound?

I'm looking to pay 22k for all fees tho overstock shows 22,198...Is that possible also. I want my payments to be less than 400/month @ 60months.

 

Hey guys did the 2006 350z enthusiast come with an option to get Bi-xenon projectors? or is it an aftermarket

 

with your wife's score at 760 she might have to be the main person on the app and you would be the co-buyer to qualify for the 1.9% APR. With you just on the loan it might be a lot higher.

The dealership will most likely tell you that she'll have to be on the loan to qualify for the low APR. Although your credit cards are paid off the potential (if you've got large amounts of available credit (revolving credit) this is a risk. This might be leading to your score being at 640, which is actually not bad but in this market it's not great.

Your odds of owning a Z are high, it's just the pain in the butt with the way banks are being. Question is, how much did you intend on putting down?

If you're good at negotiating, get the largest amount for your car. Also put some money down, maybe to pay off the rest of your loan for your max. What would help a lot is if you put down some money for the tax and title at least so you're not rolling that into the cost of the car. What would help a significant amount is if you put that down and additional money toward the principle.

Also remember one of your strongest weapons in your arsenal against a dealership is the ability to walk out. You can even walk out because you don't like the guy you're dealing with, the thing is, when you walk out you take control.

 

I'm wondering what the apr would be otherwise. I would even take a 3-5% if I could.

 

its around 5% I think, if you have Costco, their finance program is through capital one and their rates are decent and transperant, you can go to them through the costco website under services, they approve you and send you a check to pay for the car within 24 hours.