How reliable are 350z's?
I bought my 07 with 55k and currently have 90k. Besides normal wear items (brakes, tires) I've had to replace a rear caliper and some of my bushings are due to be replaced (compression arm and diff). Pretty reliable.
I've owned a 2006 Revup since March 2011. From 79k to 109k.
I've replaced the Oil Pressure sensor around 100k. No problems other than that. I've replaced a lot of bushings and other parts to upgrade but not because it had broken. It was daily driven all year, snow and everything. First winter storing it and I miss it so bad right now
I've replaced the Oil Pressure sensor around 100k. No problems other than that. I've replaced a lot of bushings and other parts to upgrade but not because it had broken. It was daily driven all year, snow and everything. First winter storing it and I miss it so bad right now
Twice since I have owned it @ 29k changed it then and at 70k. Always AMSOIL. Again its only on a very cold (for florida) day and only once. like I get in it, start it. drive it out to the freeway (5-6 mins away) and when I shift in to 5th it will do a small grind but go right in. clutch mashed to the floor entirely. Then not do it again.
I have a buddy with a 07 who's 5th also grinds some times. Im not going to claim to be an expert but I read that 5th is a step down gear so its in use a lot. is that the case?
http://autos.jdpower.com/research/Ni...oupe/index.htm
I have owned an m3 for 9 years, and it has Never given me such much trouble like the 350. For most euros, door handle, windows regulator, trim, master cylinder, caliper, trunk struts, interior trims and panels etc are not an issue. do your homework or ask.
You are super wrong:
http://autos.jdpower.com/research/Ni...oupe/index.htm
I have owned an m3 for 9 years, and it has Never given me such much trouble like the 350. For most euros, door handle, windows regulator, trim, master cylinder, caliper, trunk struts, interior trims and panels etc are not an issue. do your homework or ask.
http://autos.jdpower.com/research/Ni...oupe/index.htm
I have owned an m3 for 9 years, and it has Never given me such much trouble like the 350. For most euros, door handle, windows regulator, trim, master cylinder, caliper, trunk struts, interior trims and panels etc are not an issue. do your homework or ask.
been a member almost a year and this is your first post...... stfu noob
Mines a 03 have been running strong no issue hitting 90 k soon
Things that needed replacing was the driver window motor trunk poppers those two black things on the hatch lower ball knuckle boot the sub behind the seat
What's cool about this car there is a lot used parts for cheap if you know where to look and so many possible upgrades
Things that needed replacing was the driver window motor trunk poppers those two black things on the hatch lower ball knuckle boot the sub behind the seat
What's cool about this car there is a lot used parts for cheap if you know where to look and so many possible upgrades
Along as you don't put stretched tires with ridiculous camber slammed on coilovers with straight pipe exhaust that sounds like Chewbacca taking a **** in the middle of puberty... Then it will be reliable

Also I'd like to add, whoever told you these cars are hard to work on is a moron. Replacing most wearable items is very straight forward. Need to replace a spark plug? Unplug the coil, unbolt the coil, pull the coil out, oh look you're halfway done. Same goes for everything else (except headers lol).In my opinion, these cars are about as easy as it gets to work on. Now go get that 08
1. Window motors - Cheap to replace motor
2. Feathering: Simple - one wheel alignment
That above is something most all corrected "if" they had it by dealership - as was a free fix due to recall.
Bottom line is: Check records on maintenance upkeep. Have checked by a good mechanic if you feel more comfortable. Test drive: go around 45 mph and touch break lightly to slow down to stop, shouldn't pull but stop in straight. Idle: listen for smooth idle around 800 rpm area and not fluctuating. Slow take off with a smooth movement and listen for any unusual noises or roughness. Shift gears and make sure no grinding or slipping. These are general things to consider. Look front to rear and rear to front for any unusual uneven contours that could betray a past accident. "carfax" small fee - big relief. Just a few ideas. All the Z's are great cars no matter what year they are as long as they are well maintained.
2. Feathering: Simple - one wheel alignment
That above is something most all corrected "if" they had it by dealership - as was a free fix due to recall.
Bottom line is: Check records on maintenance upkeep. Have checked by a good mechanic if you feel more comfortable. Test drive: go around 45 mph and touch break lightly to slow down to stop, shouldn't pull but stop in straight. Idle: listen for smooth idle around 800 rpm area and not fluctuating. Slow take off with a smooth movement and listen for any unusual noises or roughness. Shift gears and make sure no grinding or slipping. These are general things to consider. Look front to rear and rear to front for any unusual uneven contours that could betray a past accident. "carfax" small fee - big relief. Just a few ideas. All the Z's are great cars no matter what year they are as long as they are well maintained.
Last edited by WSchli1672; Feb 5, 2015 at 05:44 PM.
You are super wrong:
http://autos.jdpower.com/research/Ni...oupe/index.htm
I have owned an m3 for 9 years, and it has Never given me such much trouble like the 350. For most euros, door handle, windows regulator, trim, master cylinder, caliper, trunk struts, interior trims and panels etc are not an issue. do your homework or ask.
http://autos.jdpower.com/research/Ni...oupe/index.htm
I have owned an m3 for 9 years, and it has Never given me such much trouble like the 350. For most euros, door handle, windows regulator, trim, master cylinder, caliper, trunk struts, interior trims and panels etc are not an issue. do your homework or ask.







