How reliable are 350z's?
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How reliable are 350z's?
Hi guys! Im going to the dealer this sunday in hopes of looking/test driving/ and potentially picking up this 08 350z with about 50k miles. My main concern, which is the reason I write this post, is it's reliability. When it comes to cars, i dont know much or rarely anything at all. I purchased a Audi A4 and I am just starting to learn that as the years go by, this car becomes beyond expensive to fix and not only are they expensive to fix, but are really unreliable and can easily break. From what i was told, in regards to a mechanic, labor costs will cost about the same as the Audi, because Z's are apparently hard to work on, but the parts will be cheaper. The issue is I don't want to the car to constantly braking down and being unreliable like the audi. With this audi i can fix something today and something else will brake tomorrow and that's what im trying to avoid if i purchase the Z. So are 350z's generally reliable? I dont mind fixing and paying for repairs if something is needed, but I don't want to buy the car if it could brake every 3 months, just like audi. Thanks for any help in advance!
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For the most part, they are reliable. But like anything mechanical, something can always go wrong and proper upkeep is necessary.
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Of course, just like any car, but I don't want to purchase it if it's like the audi. If i buy the car and assuming it has 0 issues at all, should I be scared of potential issues or if they're treated well they wont have problems?
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2008's had some issues with the slave cylinder, which may end up being a future cost.
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~$350 for the slave cylinder, probably a couple hundred for labor. If you buy an aftermarket slave, it will be good forever (if you buy OEM, you'll be looking at it again).
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Okay thanks! Again noob question, but this is only for 07-08's with manual transmissions correct?
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you are supposed to replace them together, the first time i did mine i did oem...... 6 months later when it happened again i got this
http://zspeedperformance.com/ZSpeed-...ZSpHDCombo.htm
labor depends on the shop you take it to, the place i took it was about $800...you have to drop the transmission completely, and if you can afford it while in there i would replace the clutch as well
http://zspeedperformance.com/ZSpeed-...ZSpHDCombo.htm
labor depends on the shop you take it to, the place i took it was about $800...you have to drop the transmission completely, and if you can afford it while in there i would replace the clutch as well
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I heard about Audi - this is NO AUDI !!!!!
Hi guys! Im going to the dealer this sunday in hopes of looking/test driving/ and potentially picking up this 08 350z with about 50k miles. My main concern, which is the reason I write this post, is it's reliability. When it comes to cars, i dont know much or rarely anything at all. I purchased a Audi A4 and I am just starting to learn that as the years go by, this car becomes beyond expensive to fix and not only are they expensive to fix, but are really unreliable and can easily break. From what i was told, in regards to a mechanic, labor costs will cost about the same as the Audi, because Z's are apparently hard to work on, but the parts will be cheaper. The issue is I don't want to the car to constantly braking down and being unreliable like the audi. With this audi i can fix something today and something else will brake tomorrow and that's what im trying to avoid if i purchase the Z. So are 350z's generally reliable? I dont mind fixing and paying for repairs if something is needed, but I don't want to buy the car if it could brake every 3 months, just like audi. Thanks for any help in advance!
Check the top 25 1/4 mile 07/08 drag list on this site and you'll see at the top andre12031948. I drag raced it for 5 years with reving & popping the clutch at the starting line at over 5,000 rpm & power shifting at 7,500 rpm and NEVER had a problem with the car. Now I did have an after market STREET clutch set but if you won't do what I did, you can stay stock and drive the car over 200K miles with only oil changes, some care & only A change of plugs at 100K.
Unless you hit bad luck, that can happen, what I wrote is the truth !!!!
#17
Problems you will have (I live in FL so I drive year around as a DD):
Window motors ~80k miles (90 bucks each)
Camshaft positioning sensors (you have 4) 80-100k miles (70 bucks each)
Door handles (Both) ~90k miles (75 bucks each)
Hatch struts ~80k (50 bucks)
Some people have problems with the oil pressure gage ~100k miles (no idea on cost)
TPMS sensors ~60k (40 bucks each?)
Tranny will grind 5th eventually, normal wear and tear depending on use. Mine only does it below 40deg and only once each time I get in it. kinda odd.
Battery terminals need to be cleaned yearly. It's closed up so you get hydrogen build up and it corrodes the points easily.
Interior paint on everything will scratch and rub off with a Q-tip Seriously its bad
Its all minor easily fixable stuff. Change the oil and enjoy the car for 200k.
Window motors ~80k miles (90 bucks each)
Camshaft positioning sensors (you have 4) 80-100k miles (70 bucks each)
Door handles (Both) ~90k miles (75 bucks each)
Hatch struts ~80k (50 bucks)
Some people have problems with the oil pressure gage ~100k miles (no idea on cost)
TPMS sensors ~60k (40 bucks each?)
Tranny will grind 5th eventually, normal wear and tear depending on use. Mine only does it below 40deg and only once each time I get in it. kinda odd.
Battery terminals need to be cleaned yearly. It's closed up so you get hydrogen build up and it corrodes the points easily.
Interior paint on everything will scratch and rub off with a Q-tip Seriously its bad
Its all minor easily fixable stuff. Change the oil and enjoy the car for 200k.
Last edited by NiLL; 02-04-2015 at 11:08 PM.
#18
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Problems you will have (I live in FL so I drive year around as a DD):
Window motors ~80k miles (90 bucks each)
Camshaft positioning sensors (you have 4) 80-100k miles (70 bucks each)
Door handles (Both) ~90k miles (75 bucks each)
Hatch struts ~80k (50 bucks)
Some people have problems with the oil pressure gage ~100k miles (no idea on cost)
TPMS sensors ~60k (40 bucks each?)
Tranny will grind 5th eventually, normal wear and tear depending on use. Mine only does it below 40deg and only once each time I get in it. kinda odd.
Battery terminals need to be cleaned yearly. It's closed up so you get hydrogen build up and it corrodes the points easily.
Interior paint on everything will scratch and rub off with a Q-tip Seriously its bad
Its all minor easily fixable stuff. Change the oil and enjoy the car for 200k.
Window motors ~80k miles (90 bucks each)
Camshaft positioning sensors (you have 4) 80-100k miles (70 bucks each)
Door handles (Both) ~90k miles (75 bucks each)
Hatch struts ~80k (50 bucks)
Some people have problems with the oil pressure gage ~100k miles (no idea on cost)
TPMS sensors ~60k (40 bucks each?)
Tranny will grind 5th eventually, normal wear and tear depending on use. Mine only does it below 40deg and only once each time I get in it. kinda odd.
Battery terminals need to be cleaned yearly. It's closed up so you get hydrogen build up and it corrodes the points easily.
Interior paint on everything will scratch and rub off with a Q-tip Seriously its bad
Its all minor easily fixable stuff. Change the oil and enjoy the car for 200k.
#20
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Had my 05 6speed Perf for about 4 years now. (88k ,but motor was swapped by dealer at 50k for unknown issues by previous owner)
Here is what I replaced due to it being damaged or worn.
Both Cam pos sensors.
Rebuilding my window motor (These can be rebuild for 1/60th the cost of buying new)
Drivers door handle.
F- Lower control arm (inner) Bushings.
Diff bushings.
Transmission Mount (got poly since oem has severe slack)
Amsoil Oilchanges (every time) + good filter
Amsoil Diff oil
Amsoil Trans Oil
Rear Wheel Bearings
Both Valve cover Gaskets
I cut and resealed all my Spark plug gaskets while I was at that too. (Zs cannot have these replaced so when they leak, A) cut out and reseal, B) cut out and use R&D kit, C) Get new (used) Valve covers.
Outside of this, I HIGHLY advice you either purchase a catch can, or "make one" and add it to the passenger side valve cover -> Plenum. This helps burning the oil that VQs are known to throw into the plenum, so the can just catches it and you recycle.
Here is what I replaced due to it being damaged or worn.
Both Cam pos sensors.
Rebuilding my window motor (These can be rebuild for 1/60th the cost of buying new)
Drivers door handle.
F- Lower control arm (inner) Bushings.
Diff bushings.
Transmission Mount (got poly since oem has severe slack)
Amsoil Oilchanges (every time) + good filter
Amsoil Diff oil
Amsoil Trans Oil
Rear Wheel Bearings
Both Valve cover Gaskets
I cut and resealed all my Spark plug gaskets while I was at that too. (Zs cannot have these replaced so when they leak, A) cut out and reseal, B) cut out and use R&D kit, C) Get new (used) Valve covers.
Outside of this, I HIGHLY advice you either purchase a catch can, or "make one" and add it to the passenger side valve cover -> Plenum. This helps burning the oil that VQs are known to throw into the plenum, so the can just catches it and you recycle.
Last edited by Z33Garage; 02-05-2015 at 05:29 AM.