Buying a new Z: Bargaining strategies anyone?
11-09-2004, 09:15 AM
#21
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Who exactly is the Fleet Manager? When I hear that title I don't actually think he would be able to sell a car to you. I would think that he would say "Sure come on in." Only to introduce me to a Salesperson.
11-09-2004, 10:33 AM
#22
Originally posted by foochdawg
Who exactly is the Fleet Manager? When I hear that title I don't actually think he would be able to sell a car to you. I would think that he would say "Sure come on in." Only to introduce me to a Salesperson.
Who exactly is the Fleet Manager? When I hear that title I don't actually think he would be able to sell a car to you. I would think that he would say "Sure come on in." Only to introduce me to a Salesperson.
11-09-2004, 10:58 AM
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Well how do you get ahold of this guy? When you call and they ask you what department you are looking for, you say the Fleet Manager? Is this like something you have to sneak around to do? Or is this guy have his own office with the required paperwork to do something like this? I just wonder why this guy wouldn't wander out to greet you like the sales people do since he cares more about how many sell.
11-09-2004, 12:27 PM
#24
Originally posted by foochdawg
Well how do you get ahold of this guy? When you call and they ask you what department you are looking for, you say the Fleet Manager? Is this like something you have to sneak around to do? Or is this guy have his own office with the required paperwork to do something like this? I just wonder why this guy wouldn't wander out to greet you like the sales people do since he cares more about how many sell.
Well how do you get ahold of this guy? When you call and they ask you what department you are looking for, you say the Fleet Manager? Is this like something you have to sneak around to do? Or is this guy have his own office with the required paperwork to do something like this? I just wonder why this guy wouldn't wander out to greet you like the sales people do since he cares more about how many sell.
Trust me you don't want to deal with a salesperson, dealing the the fleet manager is so much easier.
11-09-2004, 03:17 PM
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Skip the salespeople or the fleet mgr, email or call me as I own the place. Clay clay@universitynissan.com 800-798-9826
11-09-2004, 06:27 PM
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Just a quick thought if you don't want the hasle, I used the Costco buying service, they found my car (the last Daytona Blue in Northern California) drove it to the dealer and was $500.00 over invoice. I went through the internet, Dave Dees, Fleet Manager at Turner Nissan in Sacramento. A great guy to deal with and a truly painless buying experience. No you probably don't get the lowest price you could get by playing all the games but in my opinion well worth not having too......
11-09-2004, 07:51 PM
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I'm approaching buying nearly the exact same car as this guy (DB, enthus, kick plates, trunk and floor mats.) I have talked to two dealers, one so far has beaten the "what others pay" price of edmunds in my area (Baton Rouge, LA).
His offering was $27,700 if he had to order the car. He even offered me a silver one for 28, but it comes with splash guards which I'm not terribly attached to.
I'd like to know, is this a "good", "great", or just "bad" price for the car...if Edmunds is claming that he is beating the invoice by that margin, he is not having any dealer money or dealer holdback, which all seems too good to be true.
I suppose my question in this is, is 27,700 a fair price on a 05' enthusi that has to be ordered and I'd have to wait until January to get? What do you think I could press the dealers to?
His offering was $27,700 if he had to order the car. He even offered me a silver one for 28, but it comes with splash guards which I'm not terribly attached to.
I'd like to know, is this a "good", "great", or just "bad" price for the car...if Edmunds is claming that he is beating the invoice by that margin, he is not having any dealer money or dealer holdback, which all seems too good to be true.
I suppose my question in this is, is 27,700 a fair price on a 05' enthusi that has to be ordered and I'd have to wait until January to get? What do you think I could press the dealers to?
11-10-2004, 05:17 AM
#31
Originally posted by agent_smith
I'm approaching buying nearly the exact same car as this guy (DB, enthus, kick plates, trunk and floor mats.) I have talked to two dealers, one so far has beaten the "what others pay" price of edmunds in my area (Baton Rouge, LA).
His offering was $27,700 if he had to order the car. He even offered me a silver one for 28, but it comes with splash guards which I'm not terribly attached to.
I'd like to know, is this a "good", "great", or just "bad" price for the car...if Edmunds is claming that he is beating the invoice by that margin, he is not having any dealer money or dealer holdback, which all seems too good to be true.
I suppose my question in this is, is 27,700 a fair price on a 05' enthusi that has to be ordered and I'd have to wait until January to get? What do you think I could press the dealers to?
I'm approaching buying nearly the exact same car as this guy (DB, enthus, kick plates, trunk and floor mats.) I have talked to two dealers, one so far has beaten the "what others pay" price of edmunds in my area (Baton Rouge, LA).
His offering was $27,700 if he had to order the car. He even offered me a silver one for 28, but it comes with splash guards which I'm not terribly attached to.
I'd like to know, is this a "good", "great", or just "bad" price for the car...if Edmunds is claming that he is beating the invoice by that margin, he is not having any dealer money or dealer holdback, which all seems too good to be true.
I suppose my question in this is, is 27,700 a fair price on a 05' enthusi that has to be ordered and I'd have to wait until January to get? What do you think I could press the dealers to?
11-10-2004, 07:27 AM
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I have been in sales for awhile, sold everything from hondas to hyundai's.
First and foremost, dont do any of these petty BS ideas ie. hand check unsigned to salesman ect... lame
Research what you want, and figure out the invoice on your car. Dealers have whats called dealer cash coming back from the factory, kind of like a unit bonus so invoice is not TRUE cost. Find the EXACT car you want, offer invoice and nothing more. Simple as that. If you cannot get invoice on a car you are tying to buy, your buying it to early after release or need to find another dealership.
No need to lie or showboat, thats where all the problems come from on both parts. Make it clear to the salesperson that you KNOW you can pick up the car for invoice somewhere and that you will purchase the car RIGHT NOW if you can pay that. If the salesman is worth a grain of salt he will get you in and out of the dealership in an hour, make a quick buck and pay his mortgage on the next guy.
Another good tool for customers that people dont realize is the surveys you get from the salespeople. Let it be known that if he can get you that price with a small amount of hassle you will give him an exelent survey. That can mean large cash insentives for the salesman and costs you nothing.
Biggest thing is to get the salesman on your side, he can either work you for money or work his boss for the deal, which would you rather have?
Also, when you go back to finance (my job), thats the guy you sign all the paperwork with. 75% of the dealers entire profit is made in those next 10 minutes. Unless you really plan on keeping the car DO NOT buy anything besides gap insurance if you put little to no money down and/or are upside down on your current trade. Most things like; life insurance, extending your warr, alarms ect.. are pure profit. But gap insurance actually has a great value and is cancelable if you chose to or trade the car in.
Another area to remember is your trade. If you want to know what your trade is really worth, PM me and I will give you a no BS answer using an auction report all dealers use. No matter what (big lesson kiddies) dealers tell you your trade is worth (ie one dealer says 5k one says 7k) they are all giving you the same amount, you just lose negotiation room if they over allow for your trade (ie give you 7k for a 5k car).
And last but not least, interest rate. This is kind of difficult for an average consumer. For the guy who said get your own financing first, that is usually a bad idea. Most dealers use 20 some odd banks frequently and upto 100 on occasions, the odds that the one bank you goto has the lowest interest rate out there is slim to none. If your credit is less than perfect or even damaged (double diget interest rates) then dont worry about rate to much because #1 banks will not allow the dealership to make any money off charging you a higher rate usually and #2 the dealership probably has to pay the bank to buy your deal!. If your credit is perfect on the other hand (credit score above 700) your looking at very low single diget interest rates, anywhere from 2.9-4.9%. Sometimes dealers offer 0% interest ect, but its total BS, they have to buy the rate down, so you lose negotiation room with the price. Also, remember rates go up the longer term you go, anything above 60 months and the rate increases accordingly with the increased risk to the bank.
And finaly (lol) what you said about the cash down. If you can buy a new 350Z you need 0 cash down, only thing cash does for you is lower your payment.
Hope that helps you guys, just remember to tell the dealership exactly what you want. Hitting them rediculously low and them hitting you back CRAZY high and getting to the middle is lame and outdated. Get educated about the car you buy (you obviously have internet, takes 10 minutes), make a serious (serious meaning, will buy RIGHT NOW) offer and stick to it. If they cant do it, someone will...
GL
First and foremost, dont do any of these petty BS ideas ie. hand check unsigned to salesman ect... lame
Research what you want, and figure out the invoice on your car. Dealers have whats called dealer cash coming back from the factory, kind of like a unit bonus so invoice is not TRUE cost. Find the EXACT car you want, offer invoice and nothing more. Simple as that. If you cannot get invoice on a car you are tying to buy, your buying it to early after release or need to find another dealership.
No need to lie or showboat, thats where all the problems come from on both parts. Make it clear to the salesperson that you KNOW you can pick up the car for invoice somewhere and that you will purchase the car RIGHT NOW if you can pay that. If the salesman is worth a grain of salt he will get you in and out of the dealership in an hour, make a quick buck and pay his mortgage on the next guy.
Another good tool for customers that people dont realize is the surveys you get from the salespeople. Let it be known that if he can get you that price with a small amount of hassle you will give him an exelent survey. That can mean large cash insentives for the salesman and costs you nothing.
Biggest thing is to get the salesman on your side, he can either work you for money or work his boss for the deal, which would you rather have?
Also, when you go back to finance (my job), thats the guy you sign all the paperwork with. 75% of the dealers entire profit is made in those next 10 minutes. Unless you really plan on keeping the car DO NOT buy anything besides gap insurance if you put little to no money down and/or are upside down on your current trade. Most things like; life insurance, extending your warr, alarms ect.. are pure profit. But gap insurance actually has a great value and is cancelable if you chose to or trade the car in.
Another area to remember is your trade. If you want to know what your trade is really worth, PM me and I will give you a no BS answer using an auction report all dealers use. No matter what (big lesson kiddies) dealers tell you your trade is worth (ie one dealer says 5k one says 7k) they are all giving you the same amount, you just lose negotiation room if they over allow for your trade (ie give you 7k for a 5k car).
And last but not least, interest rate. This is kind of difficult for an average consumer. For the guy who said get your own financing first, that is usually a bad idea. Most dealers use 20 some odd banks frequently and upto 100 on occasions, the odds that the one bank you goto has the lowest interest rate out there is slim to none. If your credit is less than perfect or even damaged (double diget interest rates) then dont worry about rate to much because #1 banks will not allow the dealership to make any money off charging you a higher rate usually and #2 the dealership probably has to pay the bank to buy your deal!. If your credit is perfect on the other hand (credit score above 700) your looking at very low single diget interest rates, anywhere from 2.9-4.9%. Sometimes dealers offer 0% interest ect, but its total BS, they have to buy the rate down, so you lose negotiation room with the price. Also, remember rates go up the longer term you go, anything above 60 months and the rate increases accordingly with the increased risk to the bank.
And finaly (lol) what you said about the cash down. If you can buy a new 350Z you need 0 cash down, only thing cash does for you is lower your payment.
Hope that helps you guys, just remember to tell the dealership exactly what you want. Hitting them rediculously low and them hitting you back CRAZY high and getting to the middle is lame and outdated. Get educated about the car you buy (you obviously have internet, takes 10 minutes), make a serious (serious meaning, will buy RIGHT NOW) offer and stick to it. If they cant do it, someone will...
GL
11-10-2004, 09:32 AM
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Originally posted by Abomination
I have been in sales for awhile, sold everything from hondas to hyundai's.
First and foremost, dont do any of these petty BS ideas ie. hand check unsigned to salesman ect... lame
Research what you want, and figure out the invoice on your car. Dealers have whats called dealer cash coming back from the factory, kind of like a unit bonus so invoice is not TRUE cost. Find the EXACT car you want, offer invoice and nothing more. Simple as that. If you cannot get invoice on a car you are tying to buy, your buying it to early after release or need to find another dealership.
No need to lie or showboat, thats where all the problems come from on both parts. Make it clear to the salesperson that you KNOW you can pick up the car for invoice somewhere and that you will purchase the car RIGHT NOW if you can pay that. If the salesman is worth a grain of salt he will get you in and out of the dealership in an hour, make a quick buck and pay his mortgage on the next guy.
Another good tool for customers that people dont realize is the surveys you get from the salespeople. Let it be known that if he can get you that price with a small amount of hassle you will give him an exelent survey. That can mean large cash insentives for the salesman and costs you nothing.
Biggest thing is to get the salesman on your side, he can either work you for money or work his boss for the deal, which would you rather have?
Also, when you go back to finance (my job), thats the guy you sign all the paperwork with. 75% of the dealers entire profit is made in those next 10 minutes. Unless you really plan on keeping the car DO NOT buy anything besides gap insurance if you put little to no money down and/or are upside down on your current trade. Most things like; life insurance, extending your warr, alarms ect.. are pure profit. But gap insurance actually has a great value and is cancelable if you chose to or trade the car in.
Another area to remember is your trade. If you want to know what your trade is really worth, PM me and I will give you a no BS answer using an auction report all dealers use. No matter what (big lesson kiddies) dealers tell you your trade is worth (ie one dealer says 5k one says 7k) they are all giving you the same amount, you just lose negotiation room if they over allow for your trade (ie give you 7k for a 5k car).
And last but not least, interest rate. This is kind of difficult for an average consumer. For the guy who said get your own financing first, that is usually a bad idea. Most dealers use 20 some odd banks frequently and upto 100 on occasions, the odds that the one bank you goto has the lowest interest rate out there is slim to none. If your credit is less than perfect or even damaged (double diget interest rates) then dont worry about rate to much because #1 banks will not allow the dealership to make any money off charging you a higher rate usually and #2 the dealership probably has to pay the bank to buy your deal!. If your credit is perfect on the other hand (credit score above 700) your looking at very low single diget interest rates, anywhere from 2.9-4.9%. Sometimes dealers offer 0% interest ect, but its total BS, they have to buy the rate down, so you lose negotiation room with the price. Also, remember rates go up the longer term you go, anything above 60 months and the rate increases accordingly with the increased risk to the bank.
And finaly (lol) what you said about the cash down. If you can buy a new 350Z you need 0 cash down, only thing cash does for you is lower your payment.
Hope that helps you guys, just remember to tell the dealership exactly what you want. Hitting them rediculously low and them hitting you back CRAZY high and getting to the middle is lame and outdated. Get educated about the car you buy (you obviously have internet, takes 10 minutes), make a serious (serious meaning, will buy RIGHT NOW) offer and stick to it. If they cant do it, someone will...
GL
I have been in sales for awhile, sold everything from hondas to hyundai's.
First and foremost, dont do any of these petty BS ideas ie. hand check unsigned to salesman ect... lame
Research what you want, and figure out the invoice on your car. Dealers have whats called dealer cash coming back from the factory, kind of like a unit bonus so invoice is not TRUE cost. Find the EXACT car you want, offer invoice and nothing more. Simple as that. If you cannot get invoice on a car you are tying to buy, your buying it to early after release or need to find another dealership.
No need to lie or showboat, thats where all the problems come from on both parts. Make it clear to the salesperson that you KNOW you can pick up the car for invoice somewhere and that you will purchase the car RIGHT NOW if you can pay that. If the salesman is worth a grain of salt he will get you in and out of the dealership in an hour, make a quick buck and pay his mortgage on the next guy.
Another good tool for customers that people dont realize is the surveys you get from the salespeople. Let it be known that if he can get you that price with a small amount of hassle you will give him an exelent survey. That can mean large cash insentives for the salesman and costs you nothing.
Biggest thing is to get the salesman on your side, he can either work you for money or work his boss for the deal, which would you rather have?
Also, when you go back to finance (my job), thats the guy you sign all the paperwork with. 75% of the dealers entire profit is made in those next 10 minutes. Unless you really plan on keeping the car DO NOT buy anything besides gap insurance if you put little to no money down and/or are upside down on your current trade. Most things like; life insurance, extending your warr, alarms ect.. are pure profit. But gap insurance actually has a great value and is cancelable if you chose to or trade the car in.
Another area to remember is your trade. If you want to know what your trade is really worth, PM me and I will give you a no BS answer using an auction report all dealers use. No matter what (big lesson kiddies) dealers tell you your trade is worth (ie one dealer says 5k one says 7k) they are all giving you the same amount, you just lose negotiation room if they over allow for your trade (ie give you 7k for a 5k car).
And last but not least, interest rate. This is kind of difficult for an average consumer. For the guy who said get your own financing first, that is usually a bad idea. Most dealers use 20 some odd banks frequently and upto 100 on occasions, the odds that the one bank you goto has the lowest interest rate out there is slim to none. If your credit is less than perfect or even damaged (double diget interest rates) then dont worry about rate to much because #1 banks will not allow the dealership to make any money off charging you a higher rate usually and #2 the dealership probably has to pay the bank to buy your deal!. If your credit is perfect on the other hand (credit score above 700) your looking at very low single diget interest rates, anywhere from 2.9-4.9%. Sometimes dealers offer 0% interest ect, but its total BS, they have to buy the rate down, so you lose negotiation room with the price. Also, remember rates go up the longer term you go, anything above 60 months and the rate increases accordingly with the increased risk to the bank.
And finaly (lol) what you said about the cash down. If you can buy a new 350Z you need 0 cash down, only thing cash does for you is lower your payment.
Hope that helps you guys, just remember to tell the dealership exactly what you want. Hitting them rediculously low and them hitting you back CRAZY high and getting to the middle is lame and outdated. Get educated about the car you buy (you obviously have internet, takes 10 minutes), make a serious (serious meaning, will buy RIGHT NOW) offer and stick to it. If they cant do it, someone will...
GL
You got PM about the car I may still have to trade in. I know it will be worth less in April than it is now but I would like to know what it is worth now and if possible, a ballpark of what it could be worth when the year rolls over.
11-13-2004, 12:01 PM
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What other fees will they try to throw on aside from taxes and tags? I know dealer prep fees are **** they make up but what else should I be ready for and ready to walk away from.
11-13-2004, 12:35 PM
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Just got home from the dealer. Being a 19 year old male I was prepared to deal with all the crap they were going to throw at me and I think I defended myself fairly well. I mainly went in there to tell them that I plan on ordering a car from whatever dealer can offer me the best price, during the first week of December. Dealer didn't want to quote any exact numbers since the deal wasn't going to be finalized today but he said roughly around $800-$900 over invoice, which is ok I guess, but I'm going to try and get him to knock off at least $200 more. BTW the test drive was an experience all in itself, expect a thread about that pretty soon.
11-13-2004, 05:31 PM
#36
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Re: Buying a new Z: Bargaining strategies anyone?
Originally posted by feddi225
I'm interested in buying a base or enthusiast either '04 or '05. Wondering what criteria I should look for in a dealer, what bargaining strategy should I use, etc.
What's the most that you've been able to bargain w/ the dealer and how did you do it?
I really want to custom it w/the exact options I want, but does that reduce my bargaining leverage? I don't care about the wait.
Am I better off acting like I don't want the car and telling him to reduce the cost of what he has on the lot or else remove the options I don't want?
I would prefer only getting an enthusiast w/ extra airbags and that's about it. They throw in all those extras (marked up like 100%) in there which I can get cheaper elsewhere (i.e. alum kick plate, etc.). If I'm just going to put a different spoiler on there myself why waste money on theirs right?
I'm interested in buying a base or enthusiast either '04 or '05. Wondering what criteria I should look for in a dealer, what bargaining strategy should I use, etc.
What's the most that you've been able to bargain w/ the dealer and how did you do it?
I really want to custom it w/the exact options I want, but does that reduce my bargaining leverage? I don't care about the wait.
Am I better off acting like I don't want the car and telling him to reduce the cost of what he has on the lot or else remove the options I don't want?
I would prefer only getting an enthusiast w/ extra airbags and that's about it. They throw in all those extras (marked up like 100%) in there which I can get cheaper elsewhere (i.e. alum kick plate, etc.). If I'm just going to put a different spoiler on there myself why waste money on theirs right?
base Z at carmax is like... $24-25 something, give him the lowest price from carmax and again, if he checks, just say i thought it was Enthuz.
Last edited by CatastrophZZ; 11-13-2004 at 05:33 PM.
11-13-2004, 08:11 PM
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Re: Re: Buying a new Z: Bargaining strategies anyone?
Originally posted by CatastrophZZ
well, at Carmax (www.carmax.com) they have pretty low prices. just go and compare the prices and ask to see if they want to price match. example: enthuz w/ whatever options there is for $26,589, i guess that's a good price for an enthuz, so just go to a different dealer and tell them it's 25,589. if he's actually going to check for it, just say i thought it was 25,589. if not, just keep it quiet and see if he's going to give it to you for 25,589.
base Z at carmax is like... $24-25 something, give him the lowest price from carmax and again, if he checks, just say i thought it was Enthuz.
well, at Carmax (www.carmax.com) they have pretty low prices. just go and compare the prices and ask to see if they want to price match. example: enthuz w/ whatever options there is for $26,589, i guess that's a good price for an enthuz, so just go to a different dealer and tell them it's 25,589. if he's actually going to check for it, just say i thought it was 25,589. if not, just keep it quiet and see if he's going to give it to you for 25,589.
base Z at carmax is like... $24-25 something, give him the lowest price from carmax and again, if he checks, just say i thought it was Enthuz.
Please guys, I know you think you are helping but wow... I shared the easiest/best way in the world to buy a new car w/o knowing someone. Used is harder but if someone needs help with that just yell. Z is a horrible car to buy used, very high resale value.
11-13-2004, 08:42 PM
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Originally posted by feddi225
What other fees will they try to throw on aside from taxes and tags? I know dealer prep fees are **** they make up but what else should I be ready for and ready to walk away from.
What other fees will they try to throw on aside from taxes and tags? I know dealer prep fees are **** they make up but what else should I be ready for and ready to walk away from.
Sometimes dealers pre-install a car alarm and try to charge you a fee for those, but they are usually just relay alarms (20$) and they can charge you upto 2k for them, so always say no to those.
There are also fake fees, name them anything you want, Ive heard desert protection package, VTR, ETCH, ect...
So my best advice (MIGHT vary in your state but I doubt it) is to pay taxes, title and doc fee. (99% of the time the Doc fee is not negotiable, depends on dealership but it is pure profit for the dealer, well actually the owner)
11-13-2004, 08:48 PM
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Originally posted by pj550v12
Just got home from the dealer. Being a 19 year old male I was prepared to deal with all the crap they were going to throw at me and I think I defended myself fairly well. I mainly went in there to tell them that I plan on ordering a car from whatever dealer can offer me the best price, during the first week of December. Dealer didn't want to quote any exact numbers since the deal wasn't going to be finalized today but he said roughly around $800-$900 over invoice, which is ok I guess, but I'm going to try and get him to knock off at least $200 more. BTW the test drive was an experience all in itself, expect a thread about that pretty soon.
Just got home from the dealer. Being a 19 year old male I was prepared to deal with all the crap they were going to throw at me and I think I defended myself fairly well. I mainly went in there to tell them that I plan on ordering a car from whatever dealer can offer me the best price, during the first week of December. Dealer didn't want to quote any exact numbers since the deal wasn't going to be finalized today but he said roughly around $800-$900 over invoice, which is ok I guess, but I'm going to try and get him to knock off at least $200 more. BTW the test drive was an experience all in itself, expect a thread about that pretty soon.
#1 Car your looking at wont be there in december
#2 Price will probably change
#3 Rebates will change
#4 You will forget your salesmans name anyway
#5 Interest rates will change
ect ect ect
looking at a car your interested in is fine, just dont bust the salesmans ***** to much and dont worry about price/payments because he doesnt know and cant get you a quote anyway till your ready to buy. The numbers he gave you is a guess on his part.
The price he quoted you isnt bad, with a bit of hardball you could probably get it at or maybe 100 over invoice, but at the 1000 dollar diff mark it doesnt really matter. For every 1000 you finance its 20 bucks, so its the difference of 600 a month and 620 /shrug