No disrespect to your profession or to you, of course, but that isn't entirely correct. It takes the car a month or more after assembley just to arrive to the end user's garage. It is fully cured by then.

Today's automotive paints are fast-curing. I had a body kit installed on my car two weeks ago (car was a week old at the time). The body shop owner who has been in the business for 30+ years, and is among the best in the state, had this to say, "When your painted kit leaves our baking oven, it will be 70% cured. Within about 10 hours, it will cure to 98%. We even apply 3M clear bras to a newly painted car within 24 hours without a problem. PPG fully endorses this. For waxing, just be sure to avoid using a pure carnauba or a carnauba mix for the first few weeks. Use a polymer instead. In fact, we'll apply polymer to it before it leaves the shop".

Mag's NXT, as I'm sure you know, is a pure polymer. No wax.

 

I agree with the poster above who said by the time he was finished putting it all on, the first part had dried. That was how it worked with me. I used the liquid, the "yogurt-looking" stuff, too.

I didn't tape off the molding, but was VERY careful not to get any of the wax on it. Since I have a roadster, after I washed the car I waited until the roof was completely dry, then put the top down, cleaned off the remaining part that had been covered by the top, and then started waxing. That way I avoided any possibility of getting the wax on any part of the top - big no-no, as others have found out.

I noticed a couple small chips on the bottom of the front fender - I think a clear bra will be the next purchase.

Is this easy to put on yourself, or is it best to get a professional installer to do it?

 

A clear bra? A professional ONLY. In fact, I don't believe 3M even warrants it unless an approved installer puts it in. Find the best one you can in your city, and take it to them. Ask them to custom-fit the bra (not the cookie-cutter varieties some have) to the car and do a full wrap around whichever part they apply it on.

 

How do you find the "best one?" I looked up my area and there are four or five within 25 miles or so. Of course no names given until you buy the product. So what do I look for or ask for when choosing an installer?

 

Basically, ask them if they are 3M certified and whether 3M will warrant their install (don't only go by the warranty the installer himself provides). They should also give you a 3M warranty certificate after they install the bra. Get estimates from all that meet the criteria, then go to the one that's most experienced.

EDIT: Found 3M's link. Use this:

http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3...ind_Installer/

 

Thanks! When I tried the 3M site I only found a page where they gave general info on installers, not the detailed addresses. Thanks much.

 

Yeah, it's only meant to give us their name, phone number, and city.

 

ok well here i go, i hope i don't f' anything up *nervous*

 

Nah...no need to worry. You really can't mess anything up. Afterall, it is a sealant, not an abrasive polish. Just be careful not to get any on the rubber molding around the exterior, and to apply a thin, even coat. Give it time to dry and then gently remove. Piece of cake. You'll agree once you're done

 

how do i know when i have let it dry enough though and how do i know if i am putting enough/not to much on?


and after you wipe it all off you go back over it with a new microfiber towel one last time right?

 

Follow the drying time I mentioned in my earlier post. You should be fine. To check, just rub your finger on a panel; if wax comes off dry and powdery, it is ready for removal. Will take about 15min or so, depending on temperature.

My rule of thumb for liquid NXT is, roughly a dime-sized amount is enough for each front fender. Apply it evenly and you will know if you put too much on an area. That'll come with practice.

I fold an MF towel in quarters and use one side for removal and the other for buffing. Keep shaking it off every few minutes to get the powdery residue off, and re-fold to different area each time.

 

what is the difference between buffing and removal?

 

Removal is, well...as the dictionary suggests. Buffing, in this sense, is using light strokes to give the paint a bit more gloss after just having removed the wax (which requires more effort, right?)

 

ahhhh ok sorry im totally new to all of this! sorry for all the dumb questions! so rub harder for removal and then kinda like go over it lightly after it is all removed? should i apply the wax like up and down or go in a circle motion? how do i know if it is to hot outside to do it? it is like 90 outside but my car has been in the garage all morning.

 

No probem! We all have to start somewhere.

Don't rub too hard AT ALL to remove the wax. Only use as much pressure as necessary. The very first stroke will show you how hard to rub. NXT is very easy to remove. As soon as all the wax from a panel has been removed, flip over to the other side of the MF towel and quickly buff it off. Then move to the next panel.

Personally, I use circular strokes for application and straight for removal and buffing. Most people suggest straight movements for everything to avoiud swirls. So use your judgement on that and you'll be fine.

Finally, wax in the garage, not out in the sun. Post pics when you're done. I think we'd all like to see how your first attempt at waxing went. Don't worry, it will look great! NXT is a foolproof product.

P.S: You do plan on fully shampooing and drying the car before applying wax, right?

 

all done! it looks f'in amazing! i went really slow to make sure i did it right, took me about an hour and 10 minutes. my parents are on vacation with my digital camera or I would show you guys some pics!!!!!! i read it is ok to wax your head and tail lights so i went ahead and did that super lightly and they look amazing! i wasn't sure if i was supposed to do the black strip thats kinda plasticy between the door and the small window so I didn't. Yes I washed my car first lol...3 times this morning actually! The wax was drying quick, usually about 5 minutes, damn florida!

now i just need to find some stuff I can clean my windows with, along with the "leather" on the dashboard and interior along with the "rippled plastic" on the interior as well

 

Sweet! Nothing beats the satisfaction derived from seeing the results of your own hard work, does it? Great to know it turned out so well.

Yes, it's perfectly fine to wax your lights. I do it every time. It is ok to wax that shiny plastic B pillar you are talking about, since it is not a part of the molding and will not discolor. I wax the doorhandles too, actually.

For your glass, go to Wal-Mart and buy a product called "Invisible Glass". It comes in a aerosol can and is made by Stoner. I guarantee you will not be able to find a better performing/priced product for glass; gives phenomenal results and a little goes a very long way. I still have the same can I bought well over a year ago.

For the dash (it's plastic, not leather) please do not use Armorall, Son of a Gun or anything else like that. There is a product called "303 Aerospace Protectant" that is ideal for non-greasy protection for the dash. I buy it online but you might be able to find it at autoparts stores. If your seats are leather, get a good quality leather cleaner/conditioner. For OTC stuff, Lexol has a good reputation and I have also read good things about the new Turtle Wax leather product as well. I use a lotion called Leather Stuff. It's made by Poorboys World but you won't be able to find it OTC.

 

I will have to try to pick some of that stoners stuff up, i can use it on tint correct? should i appy it w/ newspaper?

i can use that 303 with everything correct on the dash/doors correct?

 

Yes, Invisible Glass is ammonia free so it's perfectly safe on tint. Use it with a clean MF towel; don't use a newspaper. The product is so good, and you'll need so little at a time, it leaves no greasy residue behind anyway that you would need a newspaper for. You also don't need expensive non-OTC MF towels for glass. Just get an 8-pack from Wal-Mart for $5 and you're set.

As for the 303, yes, use it on all interior trim pieces. I use an MF applicator (from Wal-Mart) to apply it and then a towel to give the treated pieces a once over.

 

im off to boaters world to get the 303 and try to find the stoners at auto zone i guesS?