TheOtherRob

iTrader: (14)

I just wanted to put this thread out there for people looking for some good products to use in keeping their engine bay clean.

List Products Used*
Process*
Pics!

BTW, Im looking into the Perfect10 Malco spray. I read that it is one of the best spray on and walk away shine/cleaner sprays. Anyone used it?

Pats300zx

I have not used the Malco Perfect10 but I love CD-2 Engine Detailer for dressing hoses and plastics. Most Autozones stopped carrying it but if your lucky you can find it for around $4.99 a can.

TheOtherRob

iTrader: (14)

^ I have read many good reviews on that stuff. Is it true that the new Black Magic Engine Shine/Cleaner replaced it?

Detailed Image

iTrader: (27)

Here is my routine and list of products used:

Products
Poorboy's World Bio-APC $13.99
303 Aerospace Protectant $12.99
P21S Finish Restorer (if there are metal components) $9.99
Rags or towels

Instructions
1. When doing an engine detail we recommend the engine be a little warm, so turn on the engine for about 1 – 2 minutes and then turn it off. If the vehicle has been driven or is hot from previous driving it may be too warm for an engine detail.

2. When the engine is at a safe temperature you can start the process. Cover any exposed electrical components (usually there are a few electrical plugs you can cover at most) and anything else you do not want water in with aluminum foil, saran wrap or something similar. Cover any exposed air filters and intakes so they don’t flood with water.

3. Spray the engine with a light mist of water. Spray degreaser over areas with grease build-ups and other heavy deposits. Avoid spraying metals and other mechanical pieces. We recommend a 3:1 dilution of Poorboy's World Bio APC. Start spraying it low or deep in the engine and work your way up towards more easily accessible areas. Let it sit for approximately 1 - 2 minutes. If you use a stronger degreaser you may want to rinse it sooner.

4. Spray down everything to remove all the degreaser and dirt and grime with a light mist from a hose. You don't want to use high-pressure water or tons of water if avoidable. Some areas may need to be wiped down with a rag or with a brush to break up heavy deposits. The debris should be loose now and fall off easily, don't rely on pressure from the hose to break up the debris.

5. Now I spot treat any areas that didn't get clean. I'll use an old rag and spray some degreaser on it and clean up any areas I see that need a light touch up. Don't forget to clean the hood that has been flipped up.

6. Make sure you have removed the tin foil or saran wrap and all other products used in the detail from the engine bay. Start the engine and let is run for at least 1 – 2 minutes to help dry some of the water. Be careful touching the vehicle after because it can get hot fast. Then finish drying anything that may need it.

7. Now I recommend treating all the (non-mechanical) vinyl, plastic and rubber pieces with a protectant such as the 303 Aerospace Protectant. Apply this to a cloth and wipe down anything that’s rubber, vinyl and plastic that’s non-mechanical. This will help prevent premature fading and keep the surface looking great. The 303 Protectant has a low gloss matte finish that looks great and helps prevent dust build up. Additionally if you have any exposed metal you can polish them now. We really like the deep polishing power of the P21S Finish Restorer. You can also apply a sealant to any painted areas in the engine bay or the under side of the hood.

8. Step back and admire a clean and sharp looking engine bay.

It's really much easier and safer than you might think. The key is to just go out there and try it. Once you've gotten good about 25 - 40 minutes is all you need for a pretty thorough cleaning. Let me know if you have any questions about this process or the products involved.

Greg @ Detailed Image

eltness350

iTrader: (58)

+1 same process we used at my dealership when i portered cars

davidv

iTrader: (2)

I wash the engine bay with soap and water, then detail with Mothers Back-to-Black. 59,000 miles above.

TheOtherRob

iTrader: (14)

Wow, very clean davidv. Looks very well kept for 59,000 miles.

Forever Z

iTrader: (2)

http://www.properautocare.com/prencl.html

nothix

iTrader: (27)

What do you recommend for the black plastic trim pieces?

SuperBlack350z

iTrader: (59)

Megs professional series APC to clean engine
303 aerospace or Megs professional series rubber and vinyl black restorer for plastics
that CD2 stuff is great as well.

benderzjamez

my plastic pieces I sprayed down with Shining Monkey tire shine. The only downfall is that everything sticks to it LOL.

SuperBlack350z

iTrader: (59)

leave tire shine for the tires.

iamdigital

iTrader: (44)

Detail it with a set of Snails, Built Block, and an upgrade strut brace and call it perrty

On a real not never use that spay'n'shine in a can junk. Used in in my Jeep once after serious mudding and while the engine cleaned up it smelled like toxins for months!!!

JAA

Detailed Image

iTrader: (27)

The 303 Aerospace Protectant is what I use to dress and protect the surface. I really like the 303 Protectant because it looks really matte and protects well. If you prefer more gloss try the Poorboy's World Natural Look.

I clean the trim with at least a 3:1 dilution of water to Bio-APC.

I hope that answered the question, but if not please let me know!

Greg @ Detailed Image

nothix

iTrader: (27)

Thanks, I'll be placing an order soon.

Detailed Image

iTrader: (27)

Sounds good! Thank you in advance for your support, it's greatly appreciated. Let me know if I can help you any further.

Greg @ Detailed Image

red_magic2000

iTrader: (4)

Hey guys the best product I've used for the engine bay is called "Pro Prep" I get it at my local Honda Kawasaki Dealership. This product works on any surface (plastic, metal, rubber any color) and will restore it to orginal condition. Hoses will return to their black color and so will any surface. You get an awesome shine that isn't sticky. I usually just wash my engine with a pressure washer, give it time to dry and then spray Pro Prep on everything. ITs usually sold at motorcycle places cause its common to use it to clean the exposed engine and hoses. So just look for it at a motorcycle dealership. The manufacturer is Silkolene, and the name is Pro Prep. Usually runs 6.99 per can. You won't be disappointed.

TheOtherRob

iTrader: (14)

^ I had a friend that recommended some motorcycle cleaners. Do you have any pictures of the engine after using it?

red_magic2000

iTrader: (4)

Hey silver, I haven't detailed my 350Z engine, just got her like 3 weeks ago. But I detail the engine on my 02 Silverado. Thing has 65,000 miles and engine looks great. I'll try to get some pics to show you. But honestly that Pro Prep is awesome stuff. I won't use anything else. Also, its been like 2 months since i deatiled the engine on my truck so its a little dusty but will get some pics, still looks good.

Zero350z

^what do you use to clean the castiron above the strut bar because yours looks spotless