ZSpectrum

iTrader: (4)

You can call a product whatever you wish, you would be quite pissed if you knew what was actually in z-6/ z-8. Zaino is really a sealant just like the klasse twins just like jeff werkstatt. Polishs corrects the paint, not protects it.(in most cases) Also another thing, why would you be apply multiple "layers" of polish. Polish doesnt layer its broken down until it becomes finer and finer and only a very tiny residue is left which you remove. And orbitals are alright, but a rotary is a better way to go. Faster cut, better finish, more pad/ polish options. ALOT more power to do what you need to do.

JMT

iTrader: (6)

Well after putting on another layer of FMJ and P21s, that Porter Cable is looking really tempting.

ZSpectrum

iTrader: (4)

Flex 3401 VRG is the way to go.

superchargedg

iTrader: (4)

Big +1

Lento

Acutually it seems that the flex is the better way to go considering gregs post taking out about 70+ % inperfections, but why (can it spin faster?)

What are the chances a first time noob at this will screw up the paint with the flex over a PC?

What I am confused about is if it is (possibly not) just the speed of the buffer, could I buy a flex and just keep it at the speeds the PC has, then when I feel more comfortable move up the speed?

of does the PC do something that the flex doesn't to make it safter, (like a fail safe that lifts the pressure of the pad after x amout of seconds to tell you its time to move before you burn the paint?

jmark

iTrader: (1)

I bought a Flex and so far I am pretty happy with it. Polished my sons SuperBlack Xterra yesterday with the Menzerna products and sealed with FMJ. Got most of the water spots out. I am still be conservative using lower speeds and the white pads as I learn the correct steps to follow. Bought all the products from Greg @ DI. He has been very helpful in the learning process. FMJ is super easy to put on & take off.

Detailed Image

iTrader: (27)

Essentially the Flex and PC are the same type of buffer but the Flex can go to much higher speeds and thus give you more polishing power. Here is a chart I found on Detail University that summarizes the speed settings and OPMs (Oscillations Per Minute) of each buffer.


This allows you to start at quite low speeds and move up as you feel more comfortable. At the lowest speed setting the buffer is extremely easy to use. The PC 7424 is really not any safer, it just has more limitation on it's speeds, therefore minimizing your risk. It's possible to do damage with either buffer, however it's pretty unlikely with either. My tips are to only go to speeds you feel comfortable. Start slow and move up with practice or test it on a junk panel. Some people are fine with it at max speed on day one while others need more practice. I would also suggest taking some time to monitor your results by using some florescent lighting or backing your vehicle out in the sun. This will help you see everything and know exactly what is happening. I also would recommend you mist a little quick detailer on a fresh pad. This helps ensure you don't use a dry pad. If you follow these suggestions and other common sense type of things you should be fine. Let me know if I can provide any other tips, suggestions or information to further help you.

Greg @ Detailed Image

superchargedg

iTrader: (4)

Also remember that a pc is only a orbital machine and that is it.The flex is a orbital machine that is also a forced rotation machine which is a huge difference in why the flex destroys the pc in corrective power.The flex cant rotate like a rotary but it still has the power to do an astounding job at correction for those that do not want to use a rotary.

ZSpectrum

iTrader: (4)

Its still rotary>all