Adon

iTrader: (2)

I have a problem that typical automotive wash formulas can't touch, even tried Dove dish washing degreasing soap, but I been washing my car last few days but repetitive process of soaping and sponging the crap out of it only to dry it and still see crap on the paint I can't really get out. The stuff stuck on the paint can be many things, road tar, sticky oil or tree sap, etc..... but I can basically sum all the crap up in one word.......... "goo"

I thought Mothers clay baring would help, but it made it worse.... so now I have another problem, I clay bared and washed the car after but I can still see a lot of the Showtime spray all over my hood and the rest of the car, couldnt wash it off, and elbow grease didn't work.
I'm using one of those fine tile/grout sponges you get at home depot which holds a lot of water, is there something else I should be using, is that why I'm unable to wash the residue of the car, not enough pressure ?

now I don't wanna use any sort of liquid abrasives/cleaners aka liquid sandpaper, my paint couldn't handle it......
but what I am looking for is a car wash soap that will actually clean the car and remove or degrease the crap that's stuck on the paint as opposed to just foaming it up and not making a difference like all the soaps I tried.


can anyone point me in the right direction please and thank you

quakerroatmeal

iTrader: (9)

Pictures would be helpful..sounds like you need a more aggressive clay. The ones they sell otc probably aren't aggressive enough for you.

scotts300

iTrader: (46)

If you have "GOO" try Goo-gone or another cleanser. In either event - when you're done - your car will need an entire POLISH and WAX because you've stripped it with the dish soap. If in doubt, take it to an automated car wash. They use HCl to strip debris (and clear coat). Again - you'll need to follow with polish and wax.

ARMSTRONGARMS

iTrader: (65)

wash w/dawn
clay bar car
wash again w/meg's gold car wash
polish
wax/seal

use a 2 buckets one for soapy water/ one for rinse, prefer grit gaurds in bottom a plus.
sponges suck, use a 100 cotton towel or mircofiber wash mit, which gives dirt more area to get trapped in.

Adon

iTrader: (2)

I should have mentioned about my paint job.... it's a semi gloss type satin clear coat, so I can't do the typical stuff you guys are able to do with regular clear coats, I'm unable to wax the car, I'm not sure if I can even use polish. I'm pretty much locked down to your typical soap sponge and water routine for the lifetime of the paint or car.

That's why I'm looking for the best available degreasing/cleaning car wash soap I can get my hands on, and I'll take care of the rest with elbow grease.


here's the car so you can get an idea of what the paint is about

quakerroatmeal

iTrader: (9)

I'm not familiar with the Satin Clear Coat used.. ask see if I can find out if there's any difference..

I would still think it'd be the same way as any other typical clear coat, as long as it's fully cured already.

Adrians07Z

I'm a full time painter at a Dodge dealership body shop .. I've painted a few sets of wheels "satin" black for challengers


you need to find out if the clear was a "satin clear" or an additive was used to create the effect (might make a difference or might not, but ive used both)


something you could try is take some rubbing compound with a microfiber cloth to a corner somewhere and see if it changes the SATIN finish to a glossy finish

if it does .. you wont be able to buff the car or polish it

if it does not make the spot shiny and the area stays satin .. then you can run over the whole car with a buffer and some compound .. that has to take the goo or any contaminates off (thats how you clean a white car for paint since there cant be ANY dirt on a blend panel)


another thing you could try is how we prep cars for paint .. wash the car with a spray can of glass cleaner .. then follow up with some wax & grease remover (they have it at auto parts stores or auto paint stores)

IF nothing works .. take a microfiber with some lacquer thinner .. that has got to take whatever is "goo" off the car

dont worry .. it wont hurt the paint unless you bath the car in the stuff (but I would try the corner thing just in case since its a satin clear) .. just wipe a panel with a soaked rag / microfiber then follow up with a dry one .. should work

Adon

iTrader: (2)

fck, I just went at it again 10 minutes ago testing on my hood.... I clay bared again, used degreasing dish soap once again and microfiber towel wiped it... and before my hood was flawless.... but now there's dried up water marks all over it thanks to the Mothers Showtime Clay Bar lubricating spray!!! so I got two problems now

basically the lubricating spray left residue all over that looks like water marks... like I sprayed it on and let it dry out in the sun and it's baked in or something, I cant elbow grease it off the hood....


I'm not quite there yet, but I'm close to hitting the panic button here... now all the road grime on my skirts and door is very secondary and my primary concern is getting this Showtime Lubricant off the car..

what you guys think would do the trick ?

Jay'Z

iTrader: (118)

Get a normal clear coat, looks like u can afford it..

Adon

iTrader: (2)

Adrian, I tried Turtle Wax polishing compound on one area of my hood before to get off ink, and I would not want to use it again, as it left abrasive swirl marks that are minor, but still there.... I will give that a try tomorrow but using moderate pressure since I don't want any more swirl marks

this is the one right here






if that doesn't work, I will panic and give up on this satin ********, it's been a shltstorm trying to keep the car clean since the day it came out the body shop, Jay Z might have the right idea, go with a regular clear, lol

quakerroatmeal

iTrader: (9)

It's because all you cared about is having the color..go on Autopia and learn how to take care of it.

It does seem more complicated then normal clear coat since if it's a matte finish you cannot even polish it or else it'll just be glossy again..

Either that or have a professional detailer take care of your car.

Adon

iTrader: (2)

^ true... I never really got any feedback from my body shop guy on how to properly clean it and maintain it, he didnt know either, he paints drift cars and crashes them more often than he washes them I don't think he is too concerned about show car finish and maintenence....
I'm gonna stop by a detailing place tomorrow and have them take a look, I just tried glass cleaner it didn't work...

gonna try the Turtle Wax polishing compound tomorrow as well I think that might work, either way I'll be hitting up the detailer sometime tomorrow for sure

quakerroatmeal

iTrader: (9)

Don't try the turtle wax compound yet. I"m still trying to find out information about it. But I need to know more about the paint/what is on it/pictures as well.

I really did not know that satin/flat paint was ridiculously that high maintenance to take care of..

Response from someone off Autopia..

Depends what it is, if it is bonded contamination such as iron or something of that nature a decon kit could be used. If it is sap, tar and the sort then use the proper chems to treat it. But if you use an abrasive polish you will get rid of the "pits" that create the satin look by leveling the clear which will create a shiny spot and not keep that satin look. A polish that is a pure polish, non-abbrasive/chemical polish is what is needed.

Satin and flat paint is hard to keep up with as you cant correct and scratches in the paint and the pits can get "clogged" with wax and have a yellow tinge sometimes thus you want to make sure all old wax and sealants is removed and new layer is applied

You can go on autopia.org and go to the cananda section to find a local detailer in your area..great guys on there who knows what they are doing.

quakerroatmeal

iTrader: (9)

Try this. Not sure if they sell it locally but you can look.

http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3...glSZCJ3FXT1Sbl

Found out Stoners Tarminator is non-abrasive as well so you should be ok to try that out as well.

RED RIDER

iTrader: (8)

Just use a good soap and then "Menzerna" cutting polish, white pad and a porter cable polisher...here are my results... $30 a bottle but worth every penny..I tried everything autozone and advance had on their shelves to no avail..claybar wouldn't get it done....but this product is amazing! Chalk it up to having the RIGHT tool for the job...
http://www.detailedimage.com/Menzern...-P72/32-oz-S1/


direct reflection in the paint..





same distance just turned camera 45 degreees to the right..

350ZTheStandard

iTrader: (4)

You need to re-wash the entire car after the clay bar & do it in the shade. You can read the how to's on: www.detailedimage.com

Good ruck

Jay'Z

iTrader: (118)

Do it in the SHADE.......

quakerroatmeal

iTrader: (9)

Did you guys not read why he cannot go with something abrasive such as menzerna? He can only use the pc to apply a paint cleaner or wax using something like menzerna would not work as it'll just make the satin/flat clear coat glossy again..

350ZTheStandard

iTrader: (4)

^ He is just asking about why the claybay left the car looking like crap. Gave very simple instructions. No mention of Menzerna. His paint for 1 thing is way to fresh to be needing such an aggressive process like this.

Dark8lue

iTrader: (9)

nice avatar!!