Shooting for the 12s didn't go so well....PICS
Originally Posted by BriGuyMax
just under $700 for the right and $500 for the left...
You won't snap them with wheel hop.
You won't snap them with wheel hop.
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Joined: Oct 2002
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From: West suburbs of Chi-town
Originally Posted by Digitalfiend
Holy crap. I thought he meant $65 for new OEM...I guess that would be too good to be true. Man $500-$700...
...and I thought $150-200ish for ours, brand new, was rough...
well...I got it off a nissan parts website...so they are unconfirmed prices...plus all I really NEED is the shaft and I could have my current axle rebuilt. The shaft listed for 100 bucks.
Originally Posted by Digitalfiend
Holy crap. I thought he meant $65 for new OEM...I guess that would be too good to be true. Man $500-$700...
...and I thought $150-200ish for ours, brand new, was rough...
Originally Posted by JonsilvZ
I guess the warranty doesn't cover it?
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Joined: Oct 2002
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From: West suburbs of Chi-town
Originally Posted by JonsilvZ
I guess the warranty doesn't cover it?
I could definitely get it covered at my dealer under warranty, but number one, I would have to pay to have it towed there and two, I don't trust them working on my car. When they put my new trans in under warranty they stripped the threads off a bolt and lost another bolt. I HATE letting other people work on my car.
Originally Posted by BriGuyMax
I could definitely get it covered at my dealer under warranty, but number one, I would have to pay to have it towed there and two, I don't trust them working on my car. When they put my new trans in under warranty they stripped the threads off a bolt and lost another bolt. I HATE letting other people work on my car.
Jason
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From: West suburbs of Chi-town
Originally Posted by zillinois
Bad luck Brian. Hope to see you back on the road ASAP!
What are you going to do when you're turboed?? Besides not dump the clutch without preloading first.
What are you going to do when you're turboed?? Besides not dump the clutch without preloading first.
When I'm turbo'd I won't have to come off the line super hard as the power will pull me out of the hole better on the slicks...so I shouldn't have a problem. I might just go ahead and upgrade the axles anyway though.
Originally Posted by BriGuyMax
because it was really my own lack of corrdination that broke it. When I go back to the track I'll be very aware of how my foot is positioned on the clutch. Plus, the axle is VERY easy and cheap to replace...other drivetrain components ARE NOT. If I beef up the axles...then something else will likely break as it becomes the "weakest link"...rear end, first gear, clutch, driveshaft...etc. I'd much rather replace an axle every once in a while over any of the other things.
Originally Posted by phile
Very good point. Problem is, what becomes the next weakest link for the guys who did take the "beefier" route?
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Joined: Oct 2002
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From: West suburbs of Chi-town
Originally Posted by Gman2004
Well I believe rear end and driveshaft our good for up to 700rwhp. As far as first gear, seeing how there are lots of member now pushing beyond 550rwhp with no problems, I don't thing you are going to take out any gears. As far as the clutch that might be a different story.
Only thing is that "power" isn't the issue here. I broke an axle with under 260whp. I know plenty of guys that are running around with over 400whp without breaking any axles. Driveline shock is the real issue. You can induce driveline shock at pretty much any power level when your tires hook no matter what.
Originally Posted by BriGuyMax
That's good to know....I have a JWT clutch/flywheel so I'm not worried about that.
Only thing is that "power" isn't the issue here. I broke an axle with under 260whp. I know plenty of guys that are running around with over 400whp without breaking any axles. Driveline shock is the real issue. You can induce driveline shock at pretty much any power level when your tires hook no matter what.
Only thing is that "power" isn't the issue here. I broke an axle with under 260whp. I know plenty of guys that are running around with over 400whp without breaking any axles. Driveline shock is the real issue. You can induce driveline shock at pretty much any power level when your tires hook no matter what.
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Joined: Oct 2002
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From: West suburbs of Chi-town
Originally Posted by one3502nv
I second that... haha... I broke my cv joint on my 5th 6000 rpm launch when I was at 265hp NA.... Since that fun :-( night, I have been riding the clutch out at around 3500 rpm and still manage to pull low 1.7 60's.... Its the shock that does it.....
The great thing about the Turbos that spool quickly is that you don't need to rail on the car off the line to pull a good 60' since the power will pull you through the 60' very quickly. Can't wait to get my turbos installed!!




