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Old May 1, 2005 | 06:51 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by BriGuyMax
just under $700 for the right and $500 for the left...

You won't snap them with wheel hop.
Holy crap. I thought he meant $65 for new OEM...I guess that would be too good to be true. Man $500-$700... ...and I thought $150-200ish for ours, brand new, was rough...
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Old May 1, 2005 | 06:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Digitalfiend
Holy crap. I thought he meant $65 for new OEM...I guess that would be too good to be true. Man $500-$700... ...and I thought $150-200ish for ours, brand new, was rough...

well...I got it off a nissan parts website...so they are unconfirmed prices...plus all I really NEED is the shaft and I could have my current axle rebuilt. The shaft listed for 100 bucks.
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Old May 1, 2005 | 06:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Digitalfiend
Holy crap. I thought he meant $65 for new OEM...I guess that would be too good to be true. Man $500-$700... ...and I thought $150-200ish for ours, brand new, was rough...
No I Said I found them on carparts for as cheap as $65....

Nissan OEM parts prices-thats crazy, for that price I would upgrade the axles.
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Old May 1, 2005 | 07:10 PM
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I guess the warranty doesn't cover it?
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Old May 1, 2005 | 07:22 PM
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Originally Posted by JonsilvZ
I guess the warranty doesn't cover it?
Not unless you have a hook up at the dealership....I remember the guy on here from Nj with the now APS TT Z broke his axle while still n/a, and he had a mod friendly dealership cover it iirc. For most I wouldnt recommend wasting your time taking it up.
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Old May 1, 2005 | 10:54 PM
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Ouch, sorry to hear.

I'll keep that in mind when I get some DR's and start modding.
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Old May 2, 2005 | 02:56 AM
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Originally Posted by JonsilvZ
I guess the warranty doesn't cover it?

I could definitely get it covered at my dealer under warranty, but number one, I would have to pay to have it towed there and two, I don't trust them working on my car. When they put my new trans in under warranty they stripped the threads off a bolt and lost another bolt. I HATE letting other people work on my car.
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Old May 2, 2005 | 04:11 AM
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Originally Posted by BriGuyMax
I could definitely get it covered at my dealer under warranty, but number one, I would have to pay to have it towed there and two, I don't trust them working on my car. When they put my new trans in under warranty they stripped the threads off a bolt and lost another bolt. I HATE letting other people work on my car.
Sorry about your breakage.. It sucked when I broke mine too... However, I have never seen one snap in half on a Z yet. I actually broke my joint inside the boot on the drivers side coming out of the rear... And the other ones that have gone have spun the splines right off inside the hub... Anyway, Yes they are expensive if you have to buy them from the dealer, as you can see.. I know I have a spare drivers side on my parts car but I think the pass side is bent... I will check later and let you know....
Jason
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Old May 2, 2005 | 04:54 AM
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there are a couple guys in the F/I section that have beefed up thier axels . PM GQ626 he may know where you can pick one up
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Old May 2, 2005 | 12:11 PM
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I PMed you with a possible solution
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Old May 2, 2005 | 03:41 PM
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Bad luck Brian. Hope to see you back on the road ASAP!
What are you going to do when you're turboed?? Besides not dump the clutch without preloading first.
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Old May 2, 2005 | 04:42 PM
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Originally Posted by zillinois
Bad luck Brian. Hope to see you back on the road ASAP!
What are you going to do when you're turboed?? Besides not dump the clutch without preloading first.
I picked up an axle off a wrecked Z today for $150...only problem is I'm going to have to take off my friggen borla exhaust to get the new axle on as the broken one came off in two pieces but the fully functional one won't fit into place with the exhaust pipe in the way.

When I'm turbo'd I won't have to come off the line super hard as the power will pull me out of the hole better on the slicks...so I shouldn't have a problem. I might just go ahead and upgrade the axles anyway though.
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Old May 2, 2005 | 08:00 PM
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Originally Posted by BriGuyMax
because it was really my own lack of corrdination that broke it. When I go back to the track I'll be very aware of how my foot is positioned on the clutch. Plus, the axle is VERY easy and cheap to replace...other drivetrain components ARE NOT. If I beef up the axles...then something else will likely break as it becomes the "weakest link"...rear end, first gear, clutch, driveshaft...etc. I'd much rather replace an axle every once in a while over any of the other things.
Very good point. Problem is, what becomes the next weakest link for the guys who did take the "beefier" route?
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Old May 3, 2005 | 09:54 AM
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Originally Posted by phile
Very good point. Problem is, what becomes the next weakest link for the guys who did take the "beefier" route?
Well I believe rear end and driveshaft our good for up to 700rwhp. As far as first gear, seeing how there are lots of member now pushing beyond 550rwhp with no problems, I don't thing you are going to take out any gears. As far as the clutch that might be a different story.
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Old May 3, 2005 | 12:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Gman2004
Well I believe rear end and driveshaft our good for up to 700rwhp. As far as first gear, seeing how there are lots of member now pushing beyond 550rwhp with no problems, I don't thing you are going to take out any gears. As far as the clutch that might be a different story.
That's good to know....I have a JWT clutch/flywheel so I'm not worried about that.

Only thing is that "power" isn't the issue here. I broke an axle with under 260whp. I know plenty of guys that are running around with over 400whp without breaking any axles. Driveline shock is the real issue. You can induce driveline shock at pretty much any power level when your tires hook no matter what.
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Old May 3, 2005 | 05:58 PM
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Originally Posted by BriGuyMax
That's good to know....I have a JWT clutch/flywheel so I'm not worried about that.

Only thing is that "power" isn't the issue here. I broke an axle with under 260whp. I know plenty of guys that are running around with over 400whp without breaking any axles. Driveline shock is the real issue. You can induce driveline shock at pretty much any power level when your tires hook no matter what.
I second that... haha... I broke my cv joint on my 5th 6000 rpm launch when I was at 265hp NA.... Since that fun :-( night, I have been riding the clutch out at around 3500 rpm and still manage to pull low 1.7 60's.... Its the shock that does it.....
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Old May 3, 2005 | 06:25 PM
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Informative. Good bits of info.
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Old May 3, 2005 | 06:43 PM
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Originally Posted by one3502nv
I second that... haha... I broke my cv joint on my 5th 6000 rpm launch when I was at 265hp NA.... Since that fun :-( night, I have been riding the clutch out at around 3500 rpm and still manage to pull low 1.7 60's.... Its the shock that does it.....

The great thing about the Turbos that spool quickly is that you don't need to rail on the car off the line to pull a good 60' since the power will pull you through the 60' very quickly. Can't wait to get my turbos installed!!
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Old May 4, 2005 | 07:31 AM
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I PMed you with the link
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Old May 4, 2005 | 08:03 AM
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Excuse my small knowledge, but what is driveline shock?
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