My 5AT ran 11.905
Originally Posted by visionboy
I'd say thats damn good for self installation and no tuning!!!
alberto and i are picking up 26 mph in the last 1/8th with our setups and i actually picked up 30 mph the other night one run
pm me if you have any questions, i love to help!! or AIM Audible Mayhem
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Registered User
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 73
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From: Saipan
Thank you guys.....
are you heating the bottle up to the correct pressure before you run??
No .... No heater //////////
are you pulling the brake fuse or putting it on a switch
Whene I ran 11 no Brake fuse but 12s ran YES I get Switch....
Next MOD. = SSV Extreme Flow Kinetix Manifold + NOS Sportsman Fogger Nitrous Oxide Systems (Direct Port)
So new nitrous system cooperated my A/F Ratio more evenly
If I'll get UTEC any one can help....me
Cause Last Time I bought e-manage + e-01 + Greddy support tools........others
from Sharif@Forged so I can copy his E-manage map for my APS,,,,,,,,,,,,
My Idea was APS Hardware + e-manage controll
I get all the hardware but No software
I don't want do it again (needless Hardware + wasted my money)
are you heating the bottle up to the correct pressure before you run??
No .... No heater //////////
are you pulling the brake fuse or putting it on a switch
Whene I ran 11 no Brake fuse but 12s ran YES I get Switch....
Next MOD. = SSV Extreme Flow Kinetix Manifold + NOS Sportsman Fogger Nitrous Oxide Systems (Direct Port)
So new nitrous system cooperated my A/F Ratio more evenly
If I'll get UTEC any one can help....me
Cause Last Time I bought e-manage + e-01 + Greddy support tools........others
from Sharif@Forged so I can copy his E-manage map for my APS,,,,,,,,,,,,
My Idea was APS Hardware + e-manage controll
I get all the hardware but No software
I don't want do it again (needless Hardware + wasted my money)
i will tell you right now, unless it was 90 degrees outside when you ran your nitrous pressure was sooooo low that it probably didnt do anything
nitrous is all about bottle pressure, if i hit it at 850 psi, which is about 75 outside, it will barely pull, if i hit it at 950-1000 it will brake loose my tires going 100 mph down the street. all about pressure, the next thing you need to buy is a bottle heater.
when you put that brake fuse on a switch, sit there and floor your car and barely press down the brake, sit there for about 8 seconds till the tires really start smoking. with your stall convertor you should be pulling nice 60 foot times. i had an automatic G35 on 100 shot pulling low 1.8s with no stall and no brake fuse switch.
if you know anything about tuning then the utec will be easy for you to do. there is no software needed. it comes with all of it. make SURE you order the TUNER WIDEBAND with it, it will datalog the AF ratio along with all the rpms so you will know exactly where you are at
the fuel jets with your nitrous system should be 58 and 30 with the stock PSI. if you are running higher fuel psi then the jet should be smaller. i would try to keep your overall air fuel ratio in the mid 10s (still really safe without overdoing it)
good luck and any other questions, post them and we will try to help as much as we can!!!!
dont forget that bottle heater and make sure you run 950-1075 pressure on a quarter mile run. i ran 11.94 @115.5 with JUST those jets 57/30 in my Z....
nitrous is all about bottle pressure, if i hit it at 850 psi, which is about 75 outside, it will barely pull, if i hit it at 950-1000 it will brake loose my tires going 100 mph down the street. all about pressure, the next thing you need to buy is a bottle heater.
when you put that brake fuse on a switch, sit there and floor your car and barely press down the brake, sit there for about 8 seconds till the tires really start smoking. with your stall convertor you should be pulling nice 60 foot times. i had an automatic G35 on 100 shot pulling low 1.8s with no stall and no brake fuse switch.
if you know anything about tuning then the utec will be easy for you to do. there is no software needed. it comes with all of it. make SURE you order the TUNER WIDEBAND with it, it will datalog the AF ratio along with all the rpms so you will know exactly where you are at
the fuel jets with your nitrous system should be 58 and 30 with the stock PSI. if you are running higher fuel psi then the jet should be smaller. i would try to keep your overall air fuel ratio in the mid 10s (still really safe without overdoing it)
good luck and any other questions, post them and we will try to help as much as we can!!!!
dont forget that bottle heater and make sure you run 950-1075 pressure on a quarter mile run. i ran 11.94 @115.5 with JUST those jets 57/30 in my Z....
Last edited by Audible Mayhem; Apr 12, 2006 at 02:41 AM.
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Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 240
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From: NYC
Originally Posted by audiblemayhem
well he definetly has some problems only picking up 22 mph in the last 1/8th, i know the 4th gear in the auto is really long but he should be able to pick up more, im sure once he figures a way to do some self tuning, he will be able to lay down some really nice times.
alberto and i are picking up 26 mph in the last 1/8th with our setups and i actually picked up 30 mph the other night one run
pm me if you have any questions, i love to help!! or AIM Audible Mayhem
alberto and i are picking up 26 mph in the last 1/8th with our setups and i actually picked up 30 mph the other night one run
pm me if you have any questions, i love to help!! or AIM Audible Mayhem
yeah well i know the 4th gear in the autos is crap for drag racing, i am completing the last 1/8th in the same amount of time with just nitrous.
his car is fast YES, his car is not fast for what he has done....
his car is fast YES, his car is not fast for what he has done....
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 73
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From: Saipan
Originally Posted by audiblemayhem
i will tell you right now, unless it was 90 degrees outside when you ran your nitrous pressure was sooooo low that it probably didnt do anything
nitrous is all about bottle pressure, if i hit it at 850 psi, which is about 75 outside, it will barely pull, if i hit it at 950-1000 it will brake loose my tires going 100 mph down the street. all about pressure, the next thing you need to buy is a bottle heater.
when you put that brake fuse on a switch, sit there and floor your car and barely press down the brake, sit there for about 8 seconds till the tires really start smoking. with your stall convertor you should be pulling nice 60 foot times. i had an automatic G35 on 100 shot pulling low 1.8s with no stall and no brake fuse switch.
if you know anything about tuning then the utec will be easy for you to do. there is no software needed. it comes with all of it. make SURE you order the TUNER WIDEBAND with it, it will datalog the AF ratio along with all the rpms so you will know exactly where you are at
the fuel jets with your nitrous system should be 58 and 30 with the stock PSI. if you are running higher fuel psi then the jet should be smaller. i would try to keep your overall air fuel ratio in the mid 10s (still really safe without overdoing it)
good luck and any other questions, post them and we will try to help as much as we can!!!!
dont forget that bottle heater and make sure you run 950-1075 pressure on a quarter mile run. i ran 11.94 @115.5 with JUST those jets 57/30 in my Z....
nitrous is all about bottle pressure, if i hit it at 850 psi, which is about 75 outside, it will barely pull, if i hit it at 950-1000 it will brake loose my tires going 100 mph down the street. all about pressure, the next thing you need to buy is a bottle heater.
when you put that brake fuse on a switch, sit there and floor your car and barely press down the brake, sit there for about 8 seconds till the tires really start smoking. with your stall convertor you should be pulling nice 60 foot times. i had an automatic G35 on 100 shot pulling low 1.8s with no stall and no brake fuse switch.
if you know anything about tuning then the utec will be easy for you to do. there is no software needed. it comes with all of it. make SURE you order the TUNER WIDEBAND with it, it will datalog the AF ratio along with all the rpms so you will know exactly where you are at
the fuel jets with your nitrous system should be 58 and 30 with the stock PSI. if you are running higher fuel psi then the jet should be smaller. i would try to keep your overall air fuel ratio in the mid 10s (still really safe without overdoing it)
good luck and any other questions, post them and we will try to help as much as we can!!!!
dont forget that bottle heater and make sure you run 950-1075 pressure on a quarter mile run. i ran 11.94 @115.5 with JUST those jets 57/30 in my Z....
Let me try on Apr.23.....
If I were you just forget about nitrous go and find someone that can get you a map. Yea but your car is not running good at all I did a 12.511 @ 111.23 with an exhaust leak and 373 to the wheels and I heard some supercharged Z did a 12.3 with like 360 to the wheels but their was something special. I hope you find somebody that can help because with that money you put into it you should be in the middle 11's. Good luck and keep us posted on how the progress goes.
Last edited by Fairlady_z33; Apr 21, 2006 at 07:25 AM.
Originally Posted by Alberto
Again, forget the N20, up the boost man. N20 can be inconsistent(just ask audible) witha built block I wouldnt even waste my time with it....
) witha built block I wouldnt even waste my time with it....Danny
Originally Posted by kim
I think I need some explain of my car 
1> Yes my engine is built motor ( CP 9.5:1 , Rod....)
2> My APS is just out of box Kit + Greddy e-01 Boost controller
3> Altitude = around 600'
4> 100 Octan Racing VP Gas
5> NOS Jet size = N-58 , F-38 (single Fogger Wet. system)
6> I had a 6MT rear end ratio
This is my problem
1> I'm living middle of Pacific Ocean named Saipan
2> We don't have Dyno or any Tunning shop
3> All Mod. on my car... I do it my self ????
4> my A/F ratio under Full Boost = around 8.9 ~ 9.5
I wish or Hope
1> some one make Dyno tune shop in my Island
2> I have enough money to ship my car to Dyno and tune shop in US (shipping cost around $3,000.00 each Trip X 2Trip + Tunning Fee)
3> any body Selling to me Tuned (100 octan gas MAP) Unichip ECU.... this is my best Hope
1> Yes my engine is built motor ( CP 9.5:1 , Rod....)
2> My APS is just out of box Kit + Greddy e-01 Boost controller
3> Altitude = around 600'
4> 100 Octan Racing VP Gas
5> NOS Jet size = N-58 , F-38 (single Fogger Wet. system)
6> I had a 6MT rear end ratio
This is my problem
1> I'm living middle of Pacific Ocean named Saipan
2> We don't have Dyno or any Tunning shop
3> All Mod. on my car... I do it my self ????
4> my A/F ratio under Full Boost = around 8.9 ~ 9.5
I wish or Hope
1> some one make Dyno tune shop in my Island
2> I have enough money to ship my car to Dyno and tune shop in US (shipping cost around $3,000.00 each Trip X 2Trip + Tunning Fee)
3> any body Selling to me Tuned (100 octan gas MAP) Unichip ECU.... this is my best Hope
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 73
Likes: 0
From: Saipan
Originally Posted by BriGuyMax
Why don't you just buy an EMS that you can street tune yourself while datalogging (UTEC, AEM EMS, EU, etc.)
I try to get UTEC and Tune
and also I get Quotation from Sharif ....
i understand why his car is running slower. crappy tune. this should explain it all for everyone. really nice car though. you have everything there you just need to get it tuned.
