Well I did some seraching last night, but was having trouble finding some basic information, it seems most people know the basic are are dicussing the finer detials of slicks. Anyways on to my questions.


I would like to get some M/T ET streets for the track. I was hoping to use the Mustang 16 X 7 1/2 stock wheels so.... what size slick would work well for those?


Also, has anyone borken drive axles (or the other part that you can snap in half with slicks)? Or should I strenghten anything before I use slicks?

 

26 X 10.5" will work, or you can do an 11.5" as well but you wont need it. Yes people have broken axles on DR's and slicks but if you preload the drivetrain you will be ok...

 

Thanks for the information alberto.

Stupid question time, how do I preload the drivetrain?

And while I'm in asking stupid questions, what's the trick to burning out in the water box?

 

Preload menaing your not going to sidestep the clutch out. What I did is launch from just inside the point of clutch release and slip it very quick. 6000rpm' NA launches and a few launches on the turbo kit no issues. As for the burnout, take the "BRAKE" fuse out of the drivers side kick panel, by clutch pedal. That will kill brake lights so only do this at the track. Turn off VDC, go through water box and light them up powerbraking to maintain revs/position. Even with VDC off and that fuse in, if you powerbrake it will cut back engine power.

 

make sure the rims will fit over your brakes!

 

i think if you are going with "slicks" i wouldnt go with wider that 8.5, its just over kill. if you are going MT ET streets then maybe a bit wider like alberto said.


i am launching at 6000 with a stock clutch and slicks 26X8.5 with no slip or spin pulling 1.63s. i dont think you have to worry about breaking stuff yet. you are more likely to break something with drag radials because of the wheel hop. slicks actually absorb all of that cause of the soft tire and sidewall.

i drive my cars like i am trying to break them at the track. if i havent broken anything the way i am launching, i wouldnt worry much...


with the burnout.... pull out the brake fuse. pull in the water in first gear. spin them for about a second. try to spin the tire at least three or four times around. pull up a bit after that. PUT THE CAR IN 2ND GEAR. drop the clutch and lightly lightly press the brake, if you hit the brake too hard it will bog the car down. barely pressing it will make the whole car sit still.

i do a burnout for about 8 seconds. nice and hot!!!

good luck and let us know how you do...

 

I actually disagree audible-I never did the 2nd gear burnout with the stock clutch,I know you do it, but I haveseen so many people burn their clutches doing this(let it out to slow I assume), I just did 1st gear burnouts on stock clutch. I now need to do it correctly with the JWT unit.

 

well as long as you push the clutch in and let it out fast, you wont burn it out. in first gear with a standing still burnout, it acts weird cause you barely can press the gas at all and you bang off the rev limiter.


second gear heats them up better. 25 mph spin vs 45-50 mph spins.



when you pull better than 1.63s i will take advice from you...


sooooooooo.................. kidding!!!

 

Not doubting thatit works at all-in fact like I said Im taking your advise on the 2nd gear burnout, but for a guy running slicks for the 1st time, I wouldnt advise it, Id say do 1st gear see how well it sticks and go from there. Next time out, 1.6 60ft-Ill thank you for the advice as I beat your time

 

go to Forgedinternals.com and order a set of Stage II Driveshaft Shop Axles if you want to go save. I've had these for about a year now and feel very good about my axles

 

I tried out my ET streets recently and had a hard time with the 2nd gear burnout, bogged really quick. Had better luck just smoking them in first but thinking back on it I think I was hitting the brakes too hard possibly getting the rear brakes to grab a bit.

 

Before I had my linelocks I started first gear burnouts but the car would fishtail, I then tried second gear and it got much more stable.
Now I use second gear and linelocks and the car stays straight as long as I want no need to remove the brake fuse and no wear on the rear brakes

 

^^ Can you provideany more info on your line locks? Id love to set that up...

 

Certainly sir....

Line Locks

Purpose: Allow for better burnouts and launches
Usage: Drive into the water box, pump the break pedal and hold, press the line lock button (usually on steering wheel), release the brake pedal.
The front brakes are locked while the rear brakes are released. You can now do your burnout without power braking. When you're ready release the button on roll forward. Same for launching.

Product: http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...tegoryId=26861

You will need two of these and they need to be hooked up after the vdc to avoid cel's

Here are some pictured on my install:

 

yup i have mine sitting here, just havent put them on yet. they cost about $120 bucks for both of them together. they are just solenoids that hold the brake fluid in the lines when they are closed.


press the brake. hit the line locks. let go of the brake yet the fronts still have the fluid "locked" into the lines so they are still working. then you can do the burnout just fine and as soon as you let off the button/switch then the front brakes release and go back to working normal.

these are also great for turbo because you can use them on the line to preload the turbo and actually build boost while not moving.

if you are having trouble with the second gear burnout its because of one of three things....

1. not dropping the clutch. have to drop it really fast
2. not getting the slicks wet enough. this was my problem at first. you really have to make sure you spin them in first gear in the water a few good times. i would say for about 1 second total.
3. pressing the brake too hard. this was another problem i had at first. thats why i was stressing barely barely pressing the brake when you do it. i mean i could seriously press the brake with my finger the same strengh..


good luck guys. i will have new tires in a week or two and will be back to the track hopefully to beat albertos "new best" if he can beat my time....

 

mrtomcat thank you very much for the product info and pics. If you dont mind me asking, about how many hours install wise does soemthing like this take?

 

haha ive never pre-loaded my drivetrain and ive gone through 1 set of DR's and two sets of slicks on stock axles. Just dont be a wimp and give too little gas cuz youll bog and break axles, better to spin on sticky tires.

 

Thats why your a douche bag BTW didnt you burn your stock clutch doing a 2nd gear burnout? Consider yourself lucky you never broke anything serious, but you did break like 2 or 3 wheel studs, maybe from your spacers, maybe from the shock to the drivetrain

 

my install took about 5 hours because Ed at Brainstorm is VERY maticulous (sp?) about the quality of his work and he had never done a line lock install on a Z...it should take between 3 and 5 hours...
The hardest part is flaring the brake lines, if you look at my pics you see how perfect he did that.

 

Thanks man Im going to order these, I just got a fat tax return BTW you run you rcar on that water injection yet?