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Old Nov 22, 2009 | 04:21 PM
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Default Traction/Drag setups

So everyone wants more power to go down the strip. I would like to know different setups that people are using with bracing, suspension, what axles, what diffs? Bushings? What works? We all know tires are a big deal, so we will leave that out.


What are you doing to improve your short-track times.
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Old Nov 22, 2009 | 04:27 PM
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Suspension: Stock w/Hotchkis Sways (will remove front in the future for better weight transfer)
Axles: Stock
Tires: 275/50/15 MT DR's on Weld Pro-Stars
Best 60': 1.879

Decent for an NA car on DR's, but I'd like a 1.79-1.81 next spring.

Edit: Going to go the SPL diff bushing this winter as well.

Last edited by 03threefiftyz; Nov 22, 2009 at 04:34 PM.
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Old Nov 23, 2009 | 06:20 AM
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Suspension: Stance coilovers w/Hotchkis Sways
Axles: Stock (but broke) DSS Pro's on now
Tires: 275/45/18 M&H DR's on stock wheels
Best 60': 1.68
rear diff brace

with a better driver, it should be faster. but its easier to spend money.

Last edited by str8dum1; Nov 23, 2009 at 06:22 AM.
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Old Nov 23, 2009 | 09:39 AM
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Originally Posted by str8dum1
Suspension: Stance coilovers w/Hotchkis Sways
Axles: Stock (but broke) DSS Pro's on now
Tires: 275/45/18 M&H DR's on stock wheels
Best 60': 1.68
rear diff brace

with a better driver, it should be faster. but its easier to spend money.
Nice 60 Ft........
What is your ET and MPH ?
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Old Nov 23, 2009 | 11:04 AM
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tires and axles are about all you need. stock diff hasn't been broken yet by anyone to my knowledge. suspension mods specific to drag racing isn't something most Z drivers do. most guys just run whatever they run on the street and do fine, many cutting 1.5s and 1.6s. obviously when it comes to the physics of drag racing a RWD car, stiffer rear suspension causes less weight transfer on to the rear wheels which isn't helpful, but in practice most of the suspension options available for Zs all work OK, it's much more dependent upon driver ability and tire choice.
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Old Nov 24, 2009 | 06:59 AM
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How fast are you trying to go? That would obviously influence how mild/extreme you go with upgrades.

I used the following and ran 1.6 60' and 9's through the 1/4 mile:
Stock Transmission
Stock Differential
Stock Driveshaft
Tilton Triple Disc Clutch
Injected Performance Bolt-On Driveshaft Loop
Injected Performance Bolt-On Dif Brace
DSS Pro Axles
Megan Suspension
Injected Performance Line Lock Setup
Haltech Platinum 350Z Standalone Two-Step and Speed-Based Boost Control

Our Green 350Z has run 1.3x 60's and 8's in the 1/4, but is auto so is a little easier on the launches. It maintains the stock auto dif, but does have other upgraded parts such as custom driveshaft, dss axles, custom suspension etc.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QPys9g4diU0
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KxQi_cv364U
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Old Nov 24, 2009 | 04:43 PM
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***I'm talking 1000ft times***

Basically my local track has screwed the Z with its different import classes. I would have to run mid to high 8's to even have a chance. So I am going to focus on running the 10.5 index class. So far with just test pipes/catback I'm down to a 11.1 w/1.9 60ft on street tires. I know i'm not going to reach my goal with just traction mods, but thats where I want to start. Which is why i'm asking. I want to know what works. What breaks...stock or not.

Thanks for all the info so far. Looks like all I need is a set of sticky tires And it looks like the et streets are doing a good job, since I have to run a DOT tire.
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Old Nov 24, 2009 | 05:10 PM
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Do you have plans for some sort of FI or NA build.....you aren't going to be competitive in 10.5 index in the 1k' w/o some considerable NA power. Even with et streets, etc you will likely not go better than a very high 1.7. I am hoping to get my 1k' down to 10.75-10.80 range in the spring. Good luck though.
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Old Nov 24, 2009 | 05:27 PM
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Originally Posted by 03threefiftyz
Do you have plans for some sort of FI or NA build.....you aren't going to be competitive in 10.5 index in the 1k' w/o some considerable NA power. Even with et streets, etc you will likely not go better than a very high 1.7. I am hoping to get my 1k' down to 10.75-10.80 range in the spring. Good luck though.

You may be right, but i'm going to give it a shot...I have .6 to make up. My plan was not to go FI, but there may be some nitrous mixed in somewhere.

What are your mods and what is you current 1k ft time and trap speed?
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Old Nov 24, 2009 | 05:41 PM
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Sorry I don't have a trap in the 1k'. Best so far was a 11.01, but I had to let off a few feet before. The 13.24 was with a severely slipping clutch & 1.98 60' (terrible).....it had a 12.99 in it, but I couldn't get a pass without the clutch slipping . I plan to drop 100 pounds off of it....get another 7-9whp (currently at 282.5whp SAE dynojet)....and get the 60's down to consistent low 1.8's (perhaps very high 1.7's). I trap 84.1-84.5 in the 1/8th right now.

Last edited by 03threefiftyz; Nov 24, 2009 at 05:42 PM.
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Old Nov 25, 2009 | 08:29 AM
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Et Streets 26" X 11.5" X 16" to clear Brembos

3.3 FD

6MT stock

Carbonetics triple disc

DSS Level 5 axles

Tein Mono Flex - HORRIBLE for drag racing 14k/14k spring rates, almost no weight transfer

-1.1 rear camber

No boost off the line

1 pus$y launch = 1.67 60ft

I know I could nail a 1.5 60ft on that old 525whp setting.

IMO - CAMBER, DRIVER and TIRES are the most important. Even with a "road race" suspension you can hook up to a 1.6 easy...

Last edited by Alberto; Nov 25, 2009 at 08:31 AM.
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Old Jan 5, 2010 | 06:45 PM
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What is a good camber setting for the strip? Could you just go with this on the street too?
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Old Jan 5, 2010 | 06:57 PM
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0 rear camber would in theory offer the largest contact patch on a flat surface, and yes, you could run it on the street.
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Old Jan 6, 2010 | 06:17 AM
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Yes, but you need it to be at 0 when squatted, so + when sitting naturally. Unfortunately this is difficult to make happen on the Z without investing in new rear components, as camber arms and toe bolts aren't enough.

Originally Posted by 03threefiftyz
0 rear camber would in theory offer the largest contact patch on a flat surface, and yes, you could run it on the street.
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Old Jan 6, 2010 | 07:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Hal@IP
Yes, but you need it to be at 0 when squatted, so + when sitting naturally. Unfortunately this is difficult to make happen on the Z without investing in new rear components, as camber arms and toe bolts aren't enough.
True, I should have clarified.
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Old Jan 6, 2010 | 01:15 PM
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So with that in mind what would be your best guess at a camber setting for drag racing with an all stock suspension?
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Old Jan 6, 2010 | 01:20 PM
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^ As far + as you can while keeping toe in check.
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Old Jan 6, 2010 | 09:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Davidb
***I'm talking 1000ft times***

Basically my local track has screwed the Z with its different import classes. I would have to run mid to high 8's to even have a chance. So I am going to focus on running the 10.5 index class. So far with just test pipes/catback I'm down to a 11.1 w/1.9 60ft on street tires. I know i'm not going to reach my goal with just traction mods, but thats where I want to start. Which is why i'm asking. I want to know what works. What breaks...stock or not.

Thanks for all the info so far. Looks like all I need is a set of sticky tires And it looks like the et streets are doing a good job, since I have to run a DOT tire.
You want to run 10.X second - 1,000 feet with a naturally aspirated 350Z? I wonder how many members have even accomplished this? Maybe 20?
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Old Jan 6, 2010 | 10:45 PM
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Originally Posted by davidv
You want to run 10.X second - 1,000 feet with a naturally aspirated 350Z? I wonder how many members have even accomplished this? Maybe 20?
Agreed, I only pulled a 10.92 with the run in my sig. It is certainly within reason that a high 10.70 (.77-.79) could be had with a mid-high 1.8 60'......that is all speculation until I can actually do it . I'd imagine the number is closer to 10 that have run in the 10's NA (~1000').

Just FYI a 10.50 would put damn close to 12.50-12.60.......going to need to crack the motor open to get that kind of hp NA. Unless you completely gut the car of all non essential weight.

Last edited by 03threefiftyz; Jan 6, 2010 at 10:47 PM.
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Old Jan 7, 2010 | 07:40 AM
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Originally Posted by 350Z400rwhp
What is a good camber setting for the strip? Could you just go with this on the street too?
.1* positive camber, as the wheels camber in slightly when you launch.
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