Hey Guys,

Do you happen to know why the car "chugs" when I shift gears at high rpms (but not past redline)?

It seems like an air intake issue as the air flow rate is not sufficient at these rpms.

I have a plenum spacer and a Nismo intake.

Any ideas? Filter dirty or perhaps a leak in the intake manifold? I thought I heard a vacuum leak when I opened up the engine bay, but perhaps it might be coming from the spacer or a crack in the intake manifold?

It also seems like I am consuming a ton of gas!! Even when not driving hard.

Thanks!!

 

-Is it "chug'n" when you mash the gas after shifting?
-Do your RPM's jump around when you are idling. Maybe dipping under the 500rpm mark?
-Do you hear any hissing sounds coming from the engine bay? You might want to check the plenum and TB.(have someone rev while you listen)
-Have you checked the Nismo filter? It could be very dirty from driving around in this weather.
-Hows the engine oil? what brand & weight are you using?

 

Mine sometimes does the same thing. Its kinds like hitting the rev limiter without hitting it. Like a slight hesitation before the power kicks in at high rpm's. Wierd.

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by Reality350

-Is it "chug'n" when you mash the gas after shifting?

[quote=Reality350]

-Is it "chug'n" when you mash the gas after shifting?
------ yup :-(

-Do your RPM's jump around when you are idling. Maybe dipping under the 500rpm mark?
------ Jumps little bit not more then normal. Noticed that after the plenum was installed and the RPM's went down.

-Do you hear any hissing sounds coming from the engine bay? You might want to check the plenum and TB.(have someone rev while you listen).
------ Yup, hear the hissing come from the engine bay. Think it might be the spacer.

-Have you checked the Nismo filter? It could be very dirty from driving around in this weather.
------ Dont think it is dirty because it is well hidden but I will have to check.

-Hows the engine oil? what brand & weight are you using
------ Using Mobile1 5w30. Viscosity should be good for the winter.

Thanks!!

 

I do remember when the spacer was put on a bolt was loose. It was tightened thereafter but perhaps the spacer got a little messed up after this.

 

You should def double check the spacer. IIRC, you need to torque then down in a specific order/pattern.

 

^+1

Re-torque them in proper sequence. We had a similar issue with xdragusx' spacer after his oil drip guard got caught upon installing.

 

Oh ok thanks! I will check to see if that is the problem this weekend.

Well, I guess it should have been checked when it was installed.

Another question, I have to bleed my cooling system since there is air in it. It happened after the Rad was installed.

I did it this weekend but there is still air there. The bleeder valve was used and the car was reved it up to 3300 rpm. Air did come out but not that much. I guess I just have to keep on doing this. May have to flush the system but want to avoid it.

U guys ever do this? Any ideas?

I want to start using K&N oil filters (going to give back my Fram tough guard). I created a thread for this type of filter a few days ago.

Where is the cheapest place? How is the www.thezstore.com? They are like 10 bucks there but shipping might get you.

 

Performance Improvements carries them for $12.99 a filter IIRC. HP-1008 is the part number I used. There's a bigger version that has more capacity and still same specs.

 

^I recall reading that the Nismo filters were better then most aftermarket ones..

 

just as a check...you have reset your ecu as well right? But yea, if you're leaking, definitely retorque the bolts first and see what happens.

 

XuperXero - $12.99 are you sure? When did you buy yours? I called them and they want $16.99.

Church - Nismo filters are expensive. Checked ebay they want like $25.

Noodleman - Shouldn’t the ECU correct itself for the new air volume created by the spacer? My engine light when on when I changed my exhaust but it went off after a while. I guess it recalibrated.

 

You should manually reset the ECU so that it re-learns faster. However you can just let it do its magic on its own, but nobody likes to wait..

I would do the peddle method, that way you can recalibrate the TB as well.

C

 

I double checked, I actually got it from OverDrive Auto in Newmarket, which is same venue as Performance Improvements. They sold me $12 tax in.

 

You might as well rese the ECU since its simple and if you're going to go through in unbolting and rebolting the spacer you should clean your MAF as well while your in the process.

 

Oh ok...good idea..!!

To reset the ECU, do you just remove one of the battery terminals over night? How long does it take to recalibrate?

Also, what is the best way to clean the MAF? I am assuming it is located in the middle of my Nismo intake tube?

 

If you want, just unplug the batt over night. Also use this opportunity to remove the MAF (unplug it) and clean it with a non-corrosive Electrical Parts cleaner or if you cant find any, just use 90% isopropyl alcohol.

If you dont want to wait overnight. Unplug the batt, hold down the brake peddle for at least 3 min.. It should drain the batt and clear the ECU.

 

Thanks Church,

How long does it take to recalibrate or adjust?

 

The process itself takes about 5 min, but it takes about 200-300 miles for the ecu to re-learn.

http://www.motordyneengineering.com/manual.pdf
The instructions are on the last page of that manual from MD.

 

there is a way i use to check vacuum leaks
i buy carb cleaner or sure start fluid, then i spray it at the spots that might have a leak. and if it does, it will suck the liquid in and cause the engine to idle up and down. thats how i pinpoint a vacuum leak.